How to Quarantine

  1. mfollen

    mfollen Well-Known Member

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    Today’s experience with the double FW & ruby dip is that it’s not too bad on the fish. The FW dip more-so but not bad. These dips can be good prior to QT as fish made it into QT post shipping relatively smoothly.
     
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  2. neilp2006

    neilp2006 Valuable Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Agreed. FW for 5 mins then a 90 minute ruby reef rally dip are well tolerated, and really, nothing to lose by doing them before they hit the QT.
     
  3. mwbeach

    mwbeach Active Member R2R Supporter R2R Secret Santa Reef Tank 365

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    Setup my QT and dosed Cupramine. A few days in I have this white stringy stuff on the air line.

    Anyone know what this is?

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor North Alabama Reef Club

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    Most likely a bacteria.
     
  5. mfollen

    mfollen Well-Known Member

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    Hello all!

    Two quick questions:
    I'm treating an emperor angelfish with a combination of copper power, GC & metro.
    After the 2 weeks of therapeutic copper I was going to get her out of the copper and into a new sterile QT.

    Can I air dry the used QT to sterilize without using vinegar? If so, how long should it stay dry to sterilize before being used in another TTM transfer?

    Thank you!
     
  6. HotRocks

    HotRocks Fish Fanatic! Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Expert Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    Personally I would bleach and air dry completely. I would dry for at least 48 hours. I use a hairdryer to dry out crevices on heaters, powerheads, hob, etc. If I need to quickly get the tank back up and running. I always bleach + dry for a minimum of 48 hrs.
     
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  7. mfollen

    mfollen Well-Known Member

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    Thank you! Would it be any quicker to use vinegar vs bleach then drying via hairdryer? I have a 2nd QT running with the same treatment plan and want to transfer those fish very quickly to avoid contamination via aero.
     
  8. mfollen

    mfollen Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone help me with my ammonia alert badge?

    It doesn’t seem to change color and is stuck between yellow (safe) and the slight green...

    I did a 25% water change and the color stayed the same.. I took the big plastic film off, but not what I believe was the circular sensor underneath...

    Thank you!!!

    7FA48E5B-29DB-4C4F-864D-554A730547F8.jpeg
     
  9. Saltyreef

    Saltyreef Active Member

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    It takes up to 4 hours for the alert to return back to normal once the color changes. Also this measures free ammonia.
    If you are starting with fresh mixed water and are doing water changes every other day or so to keep the free ammonia down then you should be good and shouldnt see much color change. I was infact skeptical as well because mine didnt change colors for days. I think i was expecting the ammonia to be thru the roof after a day or so but thats not the case with the bioload i have in my QT. You can also do a test and submerge the badge in water that you just spiked with a shrimp or food if you think its not working. And dont touch the sensor bubble with your fingers!
     
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  10. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor North Alabama Reef Club

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    They work best when lit from behind. If your QT doesn't have strong lighting, shine a flashlight at the back while reading it from the front.
     
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  11. mfollen

    mfollen Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. Thank you so much for the tips. I’m doing water changes but blindly as I can’t get a good reading on the badge. Will try these tips later today.
     
  12. Saltyreef

    Saltyreef Active Member

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    Its much easier and safer to get into a WC routine that doesnt let your ammonia get to the point of alerting. Nothing wrong with doing WCs every other day or so. It will only benefit the QT in the long run and be less stressful on your fish. The badge is there as a tattle tale essentially.
     
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  13. mfollen

    mfollen Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. I used the light and it worked great.

    Going to continue doing water changes every three days proactively. Seems to be holding up at that pace so far.

    Thank you!
     
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  14. SaundersDVM

    SaundersDVM Member

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    @Humblefish do you prefer Prazipro over General Cure? (sorry if this was answered in one of the previous 100 pages of this thread!)
     
  15. Peach02

    Peach02 Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Thank you for a great thread!
    Does anyone know if I should quarentene clean up crew and the first fish to go into a tank?
     
  16. HotRocks

    HotRocks Fish Fanatic! Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Expert Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    If you are adding a clean up crew to a new fishless tank there is no need to QT them. So long as you wait to add fish for 76 days after the CUC is added.

    You should QT all fish, IMO.
     
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  17. VJV

    VJV Valuable Member

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    You definitely need to QT all fish, including the first one! If you don’t you will risk introducing a parasite to the system which means that at any given point in the future you risk having all your fish wiped out, even if you QT all subsequent additions.
     
  18. mfollen

    mfollen Well-Known Member

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    I’m nearing the end of the 10-14 day copper treatment along with GC & metro and have a question on the observation period.

    Does anyone not do the observation period after copper treatment and put the fish into display? I was considering not doing the observation period after 14 days of copper treatment, instead keep the fish in the original QTs with copper for 21 days and then put them straight into the display.

    The display is empty and these are the first fish. I’m moving at the end of the month and am considering putting them in the display as transferring the fish into new QTs was would be one more project out of a billion with moving going on. The fish show no signs of disease currently.

    Thank you!
     
  19. VJV

    VJV Valuable Member

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    If you look at the parasite life cycle you will see that Trophonts will remain attached to the fish anywhere between 3-7 days before they fall off. If during this period you keep your copper concentration at full therapeutic levels no new Trophonts should attach as any free swimming Theronts should be killed by the copper.

    This means that theoretically at the end of 7 days the fish should be completely clean of ich. People tend to do 9-14 days before transferring to a new tank in order to be on the safe side.

    If you can observe in separate tank it will always be better as there other illnesses that could manifest after the copper which if you put in the display will make it difficult to treat.

    If you want to be absolutely paranoid when you transfer the fish to the display (or a separate QT) you should make sure the parameters are a match so you can put the fish in without acclimation. Rising in tank water would be a good idea to make sure no drops of water containing copper are introduced.

    If you need to drop acclimate you should remove water from your display into a bucket, add copper at fully concentration to that bucket and than drip this into the bucket where you have your fish. This way you make sure that during the acclimation the copper level remains at full therapeutic level to avoid some Tomont (cyst) that could have come in the net you used to scoop the fish out of the QT, bursting when the copper levels inveje acclimation bucket have been diluted with tank water.

    This last part is if you are being paranoid, but still...

    For what is worth this is what I have been doing and my display “seems” to be parasite free. The theory of what is known of the parasite lifecycle dictates that it should work.

    But it is definitely best practice to first move it into a sterile tank for observation (and taking care on the acclimation phase as above)
     
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  20. HotRocks

    HotRocks Fish Fanatic! Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Expert Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    Great advice IMO^^^

    The observation is a safety net. If something slips through treatment or an infection etc shows up it's easy to treat since they are still in QT. If you had fish in DT you could be putting them at risk if something did slip through. I understand this being a first batch you don't have that to worry about. If something did slip through though you'd have to go fallow in the DT and rip it apart to catch the fish.
     
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