Today’s experience with the double FW & ruby dip is that it’s not too bad on the fish. The FW dip more-so but not bad. These dips can be good prior to QT as fish made it into QT post shipping relatively smoothly.
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Most likely a bacteria.Setup my QT and dosed Cupramine. A few days in I have this white stringy stuff on the air line.
Anyone know what this is?
Personally I would bleach and air dry completely. I would dry for at least 48 hours. I use a hairdryer to dry out crevices on heaters, powerheads, hob, etc. If I need to quickly get the tank back up and running. I always bleach + dry for a minimum of 48 hrs.Hello all!
Two quick questions:
I'm treating an emperor angelfish with a combination of copper power, GC & metro.
After the 2 weeks of therapeutic copper I was going to get her out of the copper and into a new sterile QT.
Can I air dry the used QT to sterilize without using vinegar? If so, how long should it stay dry to sterilize before being used in another TTM transfer?
Thank you!
It takes up to 4 hours for the alert to return back to normal once the color changes. Also this measures free ammonia.Can anyone help me with my ammonia alert badge?
It doesn’t seem to change color and is stuck between yellow (safe) and the slight green...
I did a 25% water change and the color stayed the same.. I took the big plastic film off, but not what I believe was the circular sensor underneath...
Thank you!!!
They work best when lit from behind. If your QT doesn't have strong lighting, shine a flashlight at the back while reading it from the front.Can anyone help me with my ammonia alert badge?
It doesn’t seem to change color and is stuck between yellow (safe) and the slight green...
I did a 25% water change and the color stayed the same.. I took the big plastic film off, but not what I believe was the circular sensor underneath...
Thank you!!!
Its much easier and safer to get into a WC routine that doesnt let your ammonia get to the point of alerting. Nothing wrong with doing WCs every other day or so. It will only benefit the QT in the long run and be less stressful on your fish. The badge is there as a tattle tale essentially.Awesome. Thank you so much for the tips. I’m doing water changes but blindly as I can’t get a good reading on the badge. Will try these tips later today.
Thank you for a great thread!
Does anyone know if I should quarentene clean up crew and the first fish to go into a tank?
Thank you for a great thread!
Does anyone know if I should quarentene clean up crew and the first fish to go into a tank?
Great advice IMO^^^If you look at the parasite life cycle you will see that Trophonts will remain attached to the fish anywhere between 3-7 days before they fall off. If during this period you keep your copper concentration at full therapeutic levels no new Trophonts should attach as any free swimming Theronts should be killed by the copper.
This means that theoretically at the end of 7 days the fish should be completely clean of ich. People tend to do 9-14 days before transferring to a new tank in order to be on the safe side.
If you can observe in separate tank it will always be better as there other illnesses that could manifest after the copper which if you put in the display will make it difficult to treat.
If you want to be absolutely paranoid when you transfer the fish to the display (or a separate QT) you should make sure the parameters are a match so you can put the fish in without acclimation. Rising in tank water would be a good idea to make sure no drops of water containing copper are introduced.
If you need to drop acclimate you should remove water from your display into a bucket, add copper at fully concentration to that bucket and than drip this into the bucket where you have your fish. This way you make sure that during the acclimation the copper level remains at full therapeutic level to avoid some Tomont (cyst) that could have come in the net you used to scoop the fish out of the QT, bursting when the copper levels inveje acclimation bucket have been diluted with tank water.
This last part is if you are being paranoid, but still...
For what is worth this is what I have been doing and my display “seems” to be parasite free. The theory of what is known of the parasite lifecycle dictates that it should work.
But it is definitely best practice to first move it into a sterile tank for observation (and taking care on the acclimation phase as above)