How to Quarantine

Brew12

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And to answer the question about the pvc, its your choice. Personally I would retreat the batch of fish after removing the pvc, but i quarantine with copper for 14 days even if the fish shows no signs of ich or velvet just to be safe.
I agree with this. At the very least I would do a very thorough observation for at least 2 weeks.
 
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Bthomas

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This is not what I wanted to hear :( I was planning to go tomorrow to get the next group of fish to put in quarantine #1 and only wanted to leave these two current fish in the 2nd quarantine for a week so I could have them out and the tank sterilized before the new batch of fish finish their 2 week treatment.
Is it likely that I would see signs of ich in a week if they had been reinfected?
Fish in question is a Midas blenny and a filefish if that makes a difference.
 

Brew12

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This is not what I wanted to hear :( I was planning to go tomorrow to get the next group of fish to put in quarantine #1 and only wanted to leave these two current fish in the 2nd quarantine for a week so I could have them out and the tank sterilized before the new batch of fish finish their 2 week treatment.
Is it likely that I would see signs of ich in a week if they had been reinfected?
Fish in question is a Midas blenny and a filefish if that makes a difference.
I know it isn't what you wanted to hear....

It all depends on the level of risk you want to assume. The reason for transferring the fish at the 2 week point was to get them away from hard surfaces that ich or velvet would encyst on. You transferred one of those hard surfaces with the fish. Is it likely that ich or velvet was encysted on that surface? I'm not sure. Is it likely one would have hatched in that 1 hour window it was in the tank? Probably not. Is it possible? Absolutely.

This becomes a risk analysis that you need to decide for yourself. Are you willing to continue with your plan knowing it is highly unlikely that ich or velvet hatched in that 1 hour window? I would probably take that risk, but that doesn't mean it is the right thing to do or will guarantee success.
 

TK_KW

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Evening #reefsquad,

I'm currently running cupramine in one of my QTs. I've finally reached my therpudic level at .53ppm. I've got two ammonia alert badges to be certain of ammonia levels.

Question is:
-Do I need to worry about phosphate levels while I'm running copper for next 14 days? Tested phosphate and Hanna checker came back at 2.5
-Does cupramine stay stable or does it fluxuate at all now that im at my dose? I have no media in filter. And one dish with 1" of substrate in it for a Royal Pencil.
 
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drstardust

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Evening #reefsquad,

I'm currently running cupramine in one of my QTs. I've finally reached my therpudic level at .53ppm. I've got two ammonia alert badges to be certain of ammonia levels.

Question is:
Do I need to worry about phosphate levels while I'm running copper for next 14 days? Tested phosphate and Hanna checker came back at 2.5
Good news, no need to worry about phosphate during this process :)
Looks like you're on top of the ammonia monitoring, which is great.
Good luck!
 

HotRocks

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Evening #reefsquad,

I'm currently running cupramine in one of my QTs. I've finally reached my therpudic level at .53ppm. I've got two ammonia alert badges to be certain of ammonia levels.

Question is:
-Do I need to worry about phosphate levels while I'm running copper for next 14 days? Tested phosphate and Hanna checker came back at 2.5
-Does cupramine stay stable or does it fluxuate at all now that im at my dose? I have no media in filter. And one dish with 1" of substrate in it for a Royal Pencil.
The sand shouldn't be an issue.

You should still monitor your copper level throughout treatment to be sure your level is maintained.
 

HotRocks

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However - IMO - the sand will block lot of copper - you need to add much often to maiuntain your concentration

Sincerely Lasse
I use Fiji pink dry sand in QT for wrasses. I put it in a very small glass Pyrex dish. I personally don't experience any absorption using chelated copper. However depending on sand type, amount of sand, and type of copper ones mileage may vary.
 
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HotRocks

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@Lasse
@HotRocks

Its caribsea aragonite sand (1-2mm). 8" round pyrex glassware, substrate about 1" deep. You think test every day or every couple?
I would test every day until the level is stable for a few days. Then check it every other day.
 

Alberta79

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Sorry for being repetitive. I have recently transported all my fish from the DT to a QT. The hospital tank is only a 20G so I donated some of the fish to a LFS and gave them a heads up that they came from a tank infected with ICH. So fish left in the QT - Foxface, Coral Beauty, Small Convict tank, 6 line wrasse, 2 smaller clowns, Diamond goby and a scooter blenny. I started dosing Cupermine at 50% recommended levels and doing a 5 gal water change every other day while monitoring ammonia. I feel like this is to many fish in the 20g and I am worried about the goby, blenny, and 6 line in a bare bottom. I have a 6 gal fluval edge tank that I can set up and add some new live sand and maybe a small rock from the infected tank or some dry rock. Would or how would you recommend I set up the 6 gal fluval edge tank for the Goby, Blenny, and six line and should I also do copper in that tank even if there is sand in there?
 

Lasse

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Probably not but it is lipophilic (it means that it loves fat) and will enter all living organism – through skin or for fish through the gills - and bioaccumulate in their tissues – especially those that contain fat. His is the reasons why some fishes seem to tolerate a certain level in the beginning but – in the same level – they show issues after 1, 2, 3 weeks or so. The accumulated dose gets too high with time. IMO QP should not be used as a prophylactic method with the concentrations that is recommended today. Recently studies show issues with gills, liver and kidneys in common carp after a treatment with a dose (in the water) 3 times lower than the ones used today – see the end of this thread. However – it can probably defeat parasites even when they are on the fish – therefore a dip in high concentrations or long-time exposure (30 days) in very low concentrations probably can erect an acute infection. With low – I mean below 3 ppm active substance and total WC after that. But I have not done any experiments but according to QP:s way of enter and de-enter a fish (fast uptake and very low secretion rate) – as low concentration as possible is preferable.

But because of its effect on gills, liver and kidneys – it should not be used just in case (prophylactic) IMO.

Sincerely Lasse
 

Cassklar

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I am setting up a QT tank I have a hang on back filter the sponges that come with do I just put them in my display tank to seed bacteria even though my display now has ice I am removing all fish today and going fallow for 80 days thanks for help
 
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alpenreefer

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A 90 min bath (in a bucket) using Rally won't hurt anything. I just wouldn't dose it in the QT itself.
@Humblefish Trying to catch up on this thread and any advances in QT protocol since last April 2018. I have a shipment coming tomorrow (QT #1 = clown, damsels, 6-line wrasse. QT#2 = watchman, small yellow tang, starry blenny, gramma). What procedures are recommended? Rally bath (1 tsp / gal of RODI or SW)? Anything else you would recommend prior to starting Copper Power treatment (I do have Hanna Checker as well)? Also read you're researching combining Copper + Prazi + Metro (GC)? Any further info (haven't reached the end of thread...)? Thanks so much for your time and knowledge.
 

Brew12

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@Humblefish Trying to catch up on this thread and any advances in QT protocol since last April 2018. I have a shipment coming tomorrow (QT #1 = clown, damsels, 6-line wrasse. QT#2 = watchman, small yellow tang, starry blenny, gramma). What procedures are recommended? Rally bath (1 tsp / gal of RODI or SW)? Anything else you would recommend prior to starting Copper Power treatment (I do have Hanna Checker as well)? Also read you're researching combining Copper + Prazi + Metro (GC)? Any further info (haven't reached the end of thread...)? Thanks so much for your time and knowledge.
@Humblefish has stepped away from R2R for at least a little while. I would encourage you to check this out.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/
@HotRocks worked with him, along with much of his own testing, to develop this method.
 

ChristianReefer

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White stringy poop?

Purchased these guys at my lfs. They are Resplendent (Tierra) Anthias fish. They have been in qt since I purchased them on May 11 (about 16 days ago).

Here is what I did:

Step 1:
Temp acclimate for 30 min.
Sg acclimate for 1 hour.
3 days recuperation in 20 Gal long qt.

All fish were eating well. No issues at all. After the 3rd day I noticed a bit of aggression from the big anthias. He is the one with the white stringy poop.

Step 2:
Doses 5ml prazipro.
After 5 days 50% water change.

At this point I started adding meds to fish food. General cure + focus + Fritz selcon. 8 days after going into qt is when I first noticed the stringy poop.

Step 3:
Dosed 5ml prazipro
Confused using fish meds.

Fish have been in qt 18 days now. They are all doing fine. There is still aggression from the big anthias. I’m assuming he with the dominant one among the anthias.

My question is this?

Should I continue using Prazipro? I’ve only dosed twice. My last dose was 5 days ago.

Is this is an internal parasite?

Need help! Thanks!


9E29CB8A-A391-4E3C-A2E7-8F143E7F6D24.jpeg


3D534DCC-A840-4176-950C-E36E5421EA4B.jpeg
370F4943-0FB4-4C37-8CB7-BAB69E9F0AA8.jpeg
5CDAF441-E94E-4E1D-99D7-B907FE73396C.jpeg
7C62B1C2-27E6-4F89-9BE5-45BDCCD9E087.jpeg


0916D28F-4EA3-4640-9EC1-74A784F54C11.jpeg
 

Brew12

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White stringy poop?

Purchased these guys at my lfs. They are Resplendent (Tierra) Anthias fish. They have been in qt since I purchased them on May 11 (about 16 days ago).

Here is what I did:

Step 1:
Temp acclimate for 30 min.
Sg acclimate for 1 hour.
3 days recuperation in 20 Gal long qt.

All fish were eating well. No issues at all. After the 3rd day I noticed a bit of aggression from the big anthias. He is the one with the white stringy poop.

Step 2:
Doses 5ml prazipro.
After 5 days 50% water change.

At this point I started adding meds to fish food. General cure + focus + Fritz selcon. 8 days after going into qt is when I first noticed the stringy poop.

Step 3:
Dosed 5ml prazipro
Confused using fish meds.

Fish have been in qt 18 days now. They are all doing fine. There is still aggression from the big anthias. I’m assuming he with the dominant one among the anthias.

My question is this?

Should I continue using Prazipro? I’ve only dosed twice. My last dose was 5 days ago.

Is this is an internal parasite?

Need help! Thanks!


9E29CB8A-A391-4E3C-A2E7-8F143E7F6D24.jpeg


3D534DCC-A840-4176-950C-E36E5421EA4B.jpeg
370F4943-0FB4-4C37-8CB7-BAB69E9F0AA8.jpeg
5CDAF441-E94E-4E1D-99D7-B907FE73396C.jpeg
7C62B1C2-27E6-4F89-9BE5-45BDCCD9E087.jpeg


0916D28F-4EA3-4640-9EC1-74A784F54C11.jpeg
It does look like an internal parasite issue to me. I would stop the Prazipro and keep with the medicated foods.
 

ChristianReefer

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It does look like an internal parasite issue to me. I would stop the Prazipro and keep with the medicated foods.
Thanks! That’s what I’m going to do. I will do a 75% water change, add some carbon, and continue sailing food in meds.
 
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