If so, what size for an aquaone aquareef 300?
This is the only time I see the tank size mentioned, is it a 300L (75g)?
I think I recall reading something along these lines in Humblefish's posts regarding nightly dosing of H2O2. I've not tried the nightly dosing yet as I had to go on holidays just before the 3rd week and didn't want to risk an overdose while I was away. I'm going to see the H2O2 through this time (providing no seriously ill affects and providing my tang improves) so I'll try nightly then too.
The overnight dose is the most important. The article that was cited outlines why.
"Yoshinaga and Dickerson (1994) observed, in laboratory studies, that theronts were released only between the hours of 2:00 am and 9:00 am, even in total darkness; some suggest this strategy increases the chance for theronts to find a host, as many fish may be resting or closer to substrate during this time period."
I add around 24ml daily... over 3 doses (8ml each) as per humblefish's approach. I did notice at the end of the first week my gsp was not very happy... so I'd take a few days break before starting to dose again. So far no losses. May or may not be helping to reduce the number of parasites but until it has a detrimental effect, I'll keep dosing. Though if these clams and worms help my tang then I'll back off on the dosing completely. I just want to give it a bit of a fighting chance.
All I can do it tell you about my experience. It ruffles feathers on here.
Earlier this year, I had an ich outbreak in both my tanks (pre-quarrantined fish aren't as safe as advertised :face-with-thermometer::face-with-thermometer:). My 34g reef and my 220g Fowler (yes, the fowler has some coral clippings from the reef tank that I don't really care about. Mostly GSP, mushrooms, and frogspawn) were both infected.
34g first, my PJ cardinal fish were the worst off. I caught all the fish and treated them with Chloroquine Phosphate for at least a month. Some were in longer because they were easier to catch. I lost 3 of 8 fish I believe due to stress because none died in the DT, only the QT. 60 days later (I raised the temp in the DT) and I put them back in. All were clear at this point.
The 220 had my huge (14") porcupine puffer, tomini tang, eel, foxface, and harlequin tusk. My puffer was the worst by far (in my opinion, the worst ich magnet possible). I feel he was already sick before as he was skinny, so I moved him first into a 75G and started treatment. He died a few days later. All the other fish were showing signs of ich like flashing, panting, and muted colors. I caught all the other fish and put them in the QT and treated with Chloroquine phosphate. The tusk died within a week (second time I lost a big tusk due to moving into QT). The tang, foxface, and eel all made it through QT (eels don't eat with chloroquine in the water) and went back into the DT.
I got a new porcupine puffer and baby harlequin tusk QT'd them. They made it into the 220 DT and after a week they were showing spots. I started noticing the other fish showing signs again. The puffer and tusk were the worst off.
In the 34G reef, the cardinal fish were showing spots on their fins again and I saw some flashing from the clowns as well. There are 2 gobies and pistol shrimp in there as well.
It was during the fallow that I stumbled upon the H2O2 thread on the Humblefish page. I probably read 55-60 pages until it was all just repetitive questions. I said I was not going to QT and go fallow again. The stress kills.
I started the dosing per the recommendations including the overnight dose. In the reef tank, the PJ cardinals cleared up within 2 weeks and have been clear since (it's hard to tell, because they breed all the time and beat each other up a bit).
The 220G was a different story. I started with the recommended dose. I didn't see much improvement, in fact the puffer declined slowly over a couple of weeks. To be honest, the UV per gallon on the small tank is higher. Maybe that's the reason, or maybe the puffer is more prone to ich. It got to the point that I had to remove the puffer and put him in QT with chloroquine. He was improving until he got what I think was a bacterial infection and died :downcast-face-with-sweat:. The tusk was pretty covered.
I read an article about the doses that commercial fish farms use and how high the fish can tollerate. With the humblefish doses, it's like 3-5ppm. Commercial farms go up to 150ppm. I read a thread where someone was dosing 75ppm and it cured the parasite infection. I started cranking up my dosing. I was changing the quart bottles every day. I bought 35% food grade peroxide and diluted it to 8% so it lasts me a week.
I'm not exactly sure of the ppm i'm dosing (I can look it up if you want. I kept increasing it a little at a time), but at some point everyone cleared up and have been clear for months. I am still dosing currently, but I have added a lionfish and another little puffer (2 weeks) and everyone looks good. I'm thinking about tailing off the dosing amounts to see what happens.
The coral clippings do have a reaction to the peroxide. The GSP is still there but doesn't open. Some shrooms died, but others multiplied so maybe it's placment. The frogspawn opens about 50%, but is still alive. If I had a full reef tank, I wouldn't recommend the dosing regimen I'm doing in the fowler.
What about a uv sterelizet for what ich falls off the fish.
I personally feel UV isn't a good method for controlling a parasite. There is no way 100% of the water is going through the UV, espically something that is stuck in the sand.
