Internal or External Return Pump

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deezill
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Which type of Return pump do you prefer?


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Beautiful. Congrats. Looking to do an 84” x 36” x 26” in the future. Would be interested in hearing your opinion on custom aquariums build quality.
 
For a tank that size Or multi large tank system like ours. External pump. They Run forever with little to no need for maintenance or repair. I have a Reeflo hammerhead that is many years old. I have a spare set of seals for it that is almost as old as the pump but it has never leaked.

The down side is its HUGE and requires large dia. plumbing or you restrict its capability..
Never skimp on this pump ..
 
I found that the Vectra ratings are overrated. With normal 1” plumbing from a below the tank sump, the flow rate is around half the rated flow. This is measured with a Neptune flow meter. I have never tried a Varios so I cannot comment on it. The Neptune Cor20 pump puts out pretty good flow, but still nothing comparable to a reeflo

Not so much overrated as misrepresented. You only get the full rated flow by using input/output native plumbing. For the M1 this means 1 1/2” in and 1 1/4” out. Pump doesn’t like back pressure.
 
The new tank will be 300 gallons and I am going to have Custom Aquariums build it. the dimension
will be something like L = 96 H = 30 Depth = 30. I am thinking of a synergy ghost overflow so I won't lose any real estate inside the tank itself

I have a Customaquariums 96”x36”x30”(deep). The build quality is excellent. The 30” depth makes reaching the bottom a little tough. The 96x30x30 works out to 352 gallons. Great choice.

I went with the low lead front glass panel, and found it scratches very easily with a Flipper
 
I prefer external for return pump as water keeps it cool. Many say they heat water but if you grasp them in sump, they are cool to the touch. If they are warm, likely it is working to death likely under-rated for its' use.3
On My skimmer, I only have EXT units as I prefer external pump for ease of maintenance, reduction of using up space and full access to the skimmer.
 
I have a Customaquariums 96”x36”x30”(deep). The build quality is excellent. The 30” depth makes reaching the bottom a little tough. The 96x30x30 works out to 352 gallons. Great choice.

I went with the low lead front glass panel, and found it scratches very easily with a Flipper

Please PM their site and cost.
 
External only, true union ball valves on both sides. Ease of removing pump for service. My last valve was in service from 1990 until June of this year. Couldn’t find o-rings at first, got new on in mean time. Found them a couple months later. Now it’s my backup. Always used Rainbow Lifeguard pumps. Never failed me. Only problem is they always corroded out after about 10 years. Now I use their newer magnetic drive pumps.
 
I have a Customaquariums 96”x36”x30”(deep). The build quality is excellent. The 30” depth makes reaching the bottom a little tough. The 96x30x30 works out to 352 gallons. Great choice.

I went with the low lead front glass panel, and found it scratches very easily with a Flipper
yeah see this is good to know i don't want any glass to scratch easy.
 
I have a Customaquariums 96”x36”x30”(deep). The build quality is excellent. The 30” depth makes reaching the bottom a little tough. The 96x30x30 works out to 352 gallons. Great choice.

I went with the low lead front glass panel, and found it scratches very easily with a Flipper
Can you PM me the same I have the site but would be interested in the cost and also if you could do it over what is some of the things you would do differently to make the experience that much better. Thanks.
 
Just keep in mind that as wall thickness increases, the stated gallon size starts to materially exceed the actual gallons. For example, a tank 96x30x30 may well be marketed as a 375, but with 3/4” walls actually only holds about 325 gallons of water (before any displacement). Probably not a big deal unless one is OCD about flow multiples LOL.
 
Just keep in mind that as wall thickness increases, the stated gallon size starts to materially exceed the actual gallons. For example, a tank 96x30x30 may well be marketed as a 375, but with 3/4” walls actually only holds about 325 gallons of water (before any displacement). Probably not a big deal unless one is OCD about flow multiples LOL.

lol. I got rid of OCD when I joined the hobby lol.
 
Just keep in mind that as wall thickness increases, the stated gallon size starts to materially exceed the actual gallons. For example, a tank 96x30x30 may well be marketed as a 375, but with 3/4” walls actually only holds about 325 gallons of water (before any displacement). Probably not a big deal unless one is OCD about flow multiples LOL.

One of the nice things about Custom Aquariums is that they state actual volume of the tank. They also list the volume that would be typically advertised by other manufacturers. It is right on their website.
 
One of the nice things about Custom Aquariums is that they state actual volume of the tank. They also list the volume that would be typically advertised by other manufacturers. It is right on their website.

Yes, I had seen that when I was considering them last year for a tank; I really like the way they do that - would be nice if other manufacturers did as well.
 
What @ca1ore said - he pretty much nailed it.

In the past I have favored externally run pumps, however this round I'm going internal for one reason: reliability.

Internal means one less bulkhead and vessel penetration, which reduces the chance for leaks.

Also, the claim that external pumps don't heat the water is a myth. If you don't believe me, try running your external pump without water. Be sure to bring the eggs and pancake mix so you can cook breakfast on it before it seizes.
How much time would a pump located in the sump buy you in a scenario where the pump will run out of water or the inlet is completely blocked?
 
Back during halide days, internals were not desirable because they added heat but these days that's not as much of a concern. I still prefer the ease of maintenance by having an external and allowing more space inside for other items. At least that's the approach I'm going with. Something like an Abyzz assuming I have the funds for it.
 
I like external for ease of maintenance, adjustments and addition of components such as UV sterilizer and scrubber units
 
I still prefer the ease of maintenance by having an external and allowing more space inside for other items.

I like external for ease of maintenance, adjustments and addition of components such as UV sterilizer and scrubber units

Interesting - I've always felt like it was a complete pain trying to contain the water when disconnecting an external pump from the union ball valves. In cases where the sump is confined to the footprint directly below the display, an external pump also means a smaller sump so you can fit the pump and plumbing.

Edit: i think for those who are lucky enough to have a dedicated fish room, having the pump located (externally) in a place where you don't have to bend down, or crawl on the floor or contort yourself to get to it, or, trade sump size for external equipment, would realize the benefit of an external pump much more.
 
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How much time would a pump located in the sump buy you in a scenario where the pump will run out of water or the inlet is completely blocked?
I think the risk and timing are probably pretty close to the same whether you're running external or internal.

The main reason i went with internal was so that i removed one more place water could leak out of my system (the penetration for the inlet of the external run pump into the sump).
 
Interesting - I've always felt like it was a complete pain trying to contain the water when disconnecting an external pump from the union ball valves. In cases where the sump is confined to the footprint directly below the display, an external pump also means a smaller sump so you can fit the pump and plumbing.
Gate and union valves solve the spilled water. Rather that than pull out a pump now dripping water everywhere. Think quick disconnect for a canister filter plus being external I believe means longevity vs constantly submerged. Don't quote me on that. Just my belief.
 
Gate and union valves solve the spilled water. Rather that than pull out a pump now dripping water everywhere. Think quick disconnect for a canister filter plus being external I believe means longevity vs constantly submerged. Don't quote me on that. Just my belief.
In your ideal scenario, would the pump be located above or at level of the sump? Even when i used the combo you describe i still had some residual water. I think where the pump is mounted slightly higher than sump level would reduce the residual greatly.

You bring up a good point either way - a submerged pump has more places where you could get water intrusion into the stator, and you'll also get biological buildup on the casing which at some level means less effective cooling. Any of these would negatively impact pump life.

Oh also (unrelated), my dream return pumps would also be redundant Abyzz running in parallel. And I'd run them external, but with no bulkhead penetrations. I'd mount them above the sump water level and drop the suctions straight into the sump. These pumps could produce the required suction to self-prime. I'd have the best of all worlds. :)

Something like this

IMG_0991.jpeg
 

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