Mattgsa 315 gallon build

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mattgsa

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Working on programming the other toggle switch to turn off the skimmer so it can be maintained. However, I can't seem to get the code to work.

Set ON
If Output Returpump = OFF Then OFF
Defer 005:00 Then ON
If skimsh = OPEN Then OFF
OK, that was simple, just remove the "=", and all works just fine.
 

Dennis Cartier

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I also messed up today, again. The tank was sitting at 7.6 DKH, and I decided to get it up to 8.5, I thought I put in the right amount. However, when I tested again the tank was at 9.7 DKH. :mad: It's been a challenge tying to get the Alk stable on this tank. I'm looking forward to having the calrx online and running. I'm hoping that it will keep the tank a lot more stable. I have decided I'm not going to buy any more corals until I learn to control the ALK better with the CalRX.
Once you get your CalRx online, stability becomes much easier. Pair it with automated alk testing and that accounts for a huge chunk of the issues that reefers struggle with.

Dennis
 
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Well it official, the calcium reactor is installed. Here's a quick pic.
IMG_0918.JPG


I'm going to start the at a 10ml dos a day and go from there.
 
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Looking for your opinion. I'm dosing Kalk to try and boot my PH. However, I'm having limited results here is what I'm doing now, Should I be dosing for a longer period of time.
1629821278802.png

I'm just using the BRS doser, the larger of the two.
OSC 059:31/003:00/000:00 Then ON
If Time 10:00 to 20:00 Then OFF
If Output Kelistir = ON Then OFF
Min Time 016:00 Then OFF
 
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I have several things that I want to do with Acrylic tubing but BRS only sells it in 2 foot lengths, and that is not long enough for what I want to do. So I made a quick trip over the Plastic supply, and found out they sell it in 6 foot lenghts. But get this, they sell the 6 foot length for the same price BRS sells the 24 inch length. I got 18 feet for just over 8 dollars.
 
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Alright I have tested my ALK multiple times today and it has not budged from 8.5. I think I'm going to give it some more time, and then I'm going to start adding some more corals. Because event my nutrients have started to stabilize as well. I'm getting excited about this tank.

I do have a concern when it comes to the auto water changes, since I'm switching to RC since it has a higher dkh then TM. I'm worried it will throw off my stability.
 

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I wouldn't worry too much about your kalkwasser dosing for pH yet while you have so few corals anyway. I'd just concentrate on keeping the stability first so you can get corals going in your system. Once they start consuming alk you can increase the length of time you are dosing kalk to help your pH.

As your system seems to be starting to stabilise, I would think that changing salts right now would set back your stability.
 
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I wouldn't worry too much about your kalkwasser dosing for pH yet while you have so few corals anyway. I'd just concentrate on keeping the stability first so you can get corals going in your system. Once they start consuming alk you can increase the length of time you are dosing kalk to help your pH.

As your system seems to be starting to stabilise, I would think that changing salts right now would set back your stability.
You make some good points. I'm going to try and maintain stability for several weeks. Perhaps I will just leave the Kalk alone and let it continue dosing what it is now. Should I need to adjust ALK I will do it with the CalRx.
I understand your point on the salt, I will give it more consideration.
 
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If you have read my form you will remember that I have a Aquarium Engineering Automatic Calcium reactor. The controller didn't work out of the box, and if you know anything about AE you will know that it takes for ever to get thing from them. So I went online looking for an alternative. When I ran across this form created by @Dennis Cartier, LINK I loved his ideas, and I sent him an IM and he help me put this together and it works great. I will post links to what I bought.

1629854698427.png

Alirght so the wire on the right goes to the solenoid, and the one one the left goes to the float switch in the reactor. All I did was remove the connector that came with the ACR, and just connect straight to the two wires with some butt connectors. See image bellow
1629854778758.png


For the out put to the tank I just connected it to a neptune dos. I don't think that will be the long term solution but it is all I had on hand.
Generic Push in Quick Touch to Connect Fitting 1/4" OD Tube x 10-32 UNF Male
Thread Pneumatic Straight Joints/Coupler (Pack of 5)

2PCS 12V 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC Power Connector Adapter, JEEUE 12/24V Female Power Jack Socket for Led Strip CCTV Security Camera Cable Wire Ends Plug Barrel

Monoprice - 113730 Nimbus Series 18 Gauge AWG 2 Conductor CMP-Rated Speaker Wire/Cable - 100ft UL Plenum Rated, 100% Pure Bare Copper with Color Coded Conductors Black

CarbonDoser Precision Checkvalve - Aquarium Plant Life

I copied these off his form linked above.

Clippard ET-2-24-V (ET-2-24-V)
Clippard ET-C48 (ET-C48)
 
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On the topic of Calcium reactor let me know any one has any suggestions for getting the union to the pump to stop leaking.

because right now I'm thinking about a way to put it in the sump so that way when it leaks it does it in the sump. (I know thats a bad idea). I'm worried I need to take the reactor apart and seal it. I really don't want to do that now that it is working.
 

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On the topic of Calcium reactor let me know any one has any suggestions for getting the union to the pump to stop leaking.

Which part of the union is the leak coming from?

If the leak is from the thread, did you use thread tape? (Thread tape is only intended for use with metal threads and can cause plastic threads to split and leak.) There is and alternate gel/paste for use with plastic threads to leak seal them.
 
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Which part of the union is the leak coming from?

If the leak is from the thread, did you use thread tape? (Thread tape is only intended for use with metal threads and can cause plastic threads to split and leak.) There is and alternate gel/paste for use with plastic threads to leak seal them.
I didn't use anything, I just set it up the way it came.
IMG_0923 1.jpg
 

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Go to a plumbing supply place and get some of the thread gel/paste I mentioned. Undo each thread and clean them out and then apply it to the thread and screw back together.
 

Dennis Cartier

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I didn't use anything, I just set it up the way it came.
IMG_0923 1.jpg
I don't recognize the part in the photo. It looks like the output side of the pump, so the red thing is maybe a newer style venturi than mine has.

I would carefully watch where exactly the leak is coming from and then see if that part needs better sealing on the threads. If it truly is coming from a union, then you will need to take the union off and check the o-ring. It could be pinched or damaged. I have started up devices before where the union had no o-ring at all installed, lol, those become obvious very fast.

Doing any sort of maintenance on the Sicce pump will require the reactor to be drained. My suggestion is to drain it into a clean bucket and then re-fill with the saved effluent after the reactor is re-assembled. Also be very careful when working around the fitting screwed into the Sicce volute. The material is incredibly thin. If you tighten the fitting just a tad too much, the volute cracks and you have a leak as a result. I know I cracked 2 of them within 10 minutes. I ended up DIY'ing a collar to reinforce the volute so I could tighten the ACR fitting with no fear of cracking it.

Come to think of it, when I cracked the volute, the effluent was dripping down and I at first thought the leak was in the union below. So check to make sure your Sicce's volute is not leaking.

Dennis
 

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If you have read my form you will remember that I have a Aquarium Engineering Automatic Calcium reactor. The controller didn't work out of the box, and if you know anything about AE you will know that it takes for ever to get thing from them. So I went online looking for an alternative. When I ran across this form created by @Dennis Cartier, LINK I loved his ideas, and I sent him an IM and he help me put this together and it works great. I will post links to what I bought.

1629854698427.png

Alirght so the wire on the right goes to the solenoid, and the one one the left goes to the float switch in the reactor. All I did was remove the connector that came with the ACR, and just connect straight to the two wires with some butt connectors. See image bellow
1629854778758.png


For the out put to the tank I just connected it to a neptune dos. I don't think that will be the long term solution but it is all I had on hand.
Generic Push in Quick Touch to Connect Fitting 1/4" OD Tube x 10-32 UNF Male
Thread Pneumatic Straight Joints/Coupler (Pack of 5)

2PCS 12V 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC Power Connector Adapter, JEEUE 12/24V Female Power Jack Socket for Led Strip CCTV Security Camera Cable Wire Ends Plug Barrel

Monoprice - 113730 Nimbus Series 18 Gauge AWG 2 Conductor CMP-Rated Speaker Wire/Cable - 100ft UL Plenum Rated, 100% Pure Bare Copper with Color Coded Conductors Black

CarbonDoser Precision Checkvalve - Aquarium Plant Life

I copied these off his form linked above.

Clippard ET-2-24-V (ET-2-24-V)
Clippard ET-C48 (ET-C48)
It looks like there are some configuration options on that valve when I click on the link. Are these default options the one you went with? Thx!
 

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