My Current QT Process

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HotRocks

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@HotRocks, is GC easier on wrasses than Prazi? Was curious, as I am about to move 3 wrasses from copper to the next stage and didn't want to loose any wrasses after all this time. Also, would you just use GC/Prazi, or would you also add Kanaplex? @4FordFamily, same question as I also know you QT the same and have the same views.
Yes, the concentration of praziquantel in GC is slightly lower than Prazipro. However it is usually enough to still get the job done in erradicating flukes/worms.
 
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I think it would be ok. Carbon isn't very effective at removing copper, although you still might see your copper level drop some.
I agree. If it's being monitored with Hanna then I wouldn't be concerned as long as testing frequently. The easiest way to get rid of cloudy water is to do a large water change (pre dosed to match copper level of course). Cleanliness of water in QT is critical IME. It's not worth risking.
 

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I agree. If it's being monitored with Hanna then I wouldn't be concerned as long as testing frequently. The easiest way to get rid of cloudy water is to do a large water change (pre dosed to match copper level of course). Cleanliness of water in QT is critical IME. It's not worth risking.
:) Mixing a bucket as we speak..
Thanks!
 

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Okay now another magic question...how do you clean the seachem ammonia alerts for re-use?
 
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Okay now another magic question...how do you clean the seachem ammonia alerts for re-use?
They aren't really cleanable. It will remove the sensor if you wipe it. Toss it and buy a new one. Honestly I replace them every couple batches.
 

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They aren't really cleanable. It will remove the sensor if you wipe it. Toss it and buy a new one. Honestly I replace them every couple batches.
HotRocks I think this is the answer below that I was looking for...Maybe you misunderstood the question. It has more to do with how do you sterilize it after treating a case of velvet, etc. You bleach everything else to sterilize it. Are you saying that every time you throw it out and start with a new one?
Rinse in RODI water, allow to dry and store in original packaging. They last a good year.
 
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HotRocks I think this is the answer below that I was looking for...Maybe you misunderstood the question. It has more to do with how do you sterilize it after treating a case of velvet, etc. You bleach everything else to sterilize it. Are you saying that every time you throw it out and start with a new one?
Bleach ruins them. So yes if I sterilize I Toss it and put a new one in.

I buy them in bulk. Keep in mind I have 6 QTs running right now, treating fish for a large build of @4FordFamily and running various experiments.
 

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Bleach ruins them. So yes if I sterilize I Toss it and put a new one in.

I buy them in bulk. Keep in mind I have 6 QTs running right now, treating fish for a large build of @4FordFamily and running various experiments.
Is RO-DI and air drying a good option then for us regular people?
 

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So I'm reading this thread and I'm freaking out.
I'm new to the hobby and currently building my first tank. It'll be a 120G FOWLR and I thought I had everything laid out and planned but I'm realizing that I totally underestimated the QT process and investment.

I did get a 20L to use as a QT and I was planning on doing the FW dip plus observation but I was not planning on keeping fish in QT for 2 months in 2 separate tanks with an entire pharmacy in tow.

I know you guys got tons of experience and your going through this process by necessity and not for fun. But what would be my chances of success with a much simpler QT process for my first 2 clown fish for example? Are more hardy fish a little safer and do not require such an extensive and long process?

I am already seeing the extra $$$ I'll have to spend on equipment and medication [emoji3525]
 
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So I'm reading this thread and I'm freaking out.
I'm new to the hobby and currently building my first tank. It'll be a 120G FOWLR and I thought I had everything laid out and planned but I'm realizing that I totally underestimated the QT process and investment.

I did get a 20L to use as a QT and I was planning on doing the FW dip plus observation but I was not planning on keeping fish in QT for 2 months in 2 separate tanks with an entire pharmacy in tow.

I know you guys got tons of experience and your going through this process by necessity and not for fun. But what would be my chances of success with a much simpler QT process for my first 2 clown fish for example? Are more hardy fish a little safer and do not require such an extensive and long process?

I am already seeing the extra $$$ I'll have to spend on equipment and medication [emoji3525]
Clowns are very hardy and resistant. So the problem with just observing them is they could be harboring parasites without symptoms.

What kind of stock list are you looking at? As far as future additions?
 

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Clowns are very hardy and resistant. So the problem with just observing them is they could be harboring parasites without symptoms.

What kind of stock list are you looking at? As far as future additions?

Thank you very much for the quick response

I am not 100% of my stock list yet but I will stay with easy fish for sure. What I have so far is Yellow Tang, Blue/Green Chromis, Bicolor Blenny, Cardinal Fish, Flame Angel, Canary Wrasse and Royal Gramma Basslet.
This will be added over a long period of time because I am planning to take it slow to not compromise my water conditions since I am a newbie.

Is there some scaled down version of you protocol that you could recommend for more hardy fish? What would be the bare minimum I should do? I do understand that the less I do the greater the risk. I am trying to find a good balance between the bare minimum and a full blown medicated QT :)
 

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Thank you very much for the quick response

I am not 100% of my stock list yet but I will stay with easy fish for sure. What I have so far is Yellow Tang, Blue/Green Chromis, Bicolor Blenny, Cardinal Fish, Flame Angel, Canary Wrasse and Royal Gramma Basslet.
This will be added over a long period of time because I am planning to take it slow to not compromise my water conditions since I am a newbie.

Is there some scaled down version of you protocol that you could recommend for more hardy fish? What would be the bare minimum I should do? I do understand that the less I do the greater the risk. I am trying to find a good balance between the bare minimum and a full blown medicated QT :)
Blue/green Chromis are a real problem with Uronema these days. I'd avoid them. If you get Uronema in your tank it's there until you sterilize it. Flame Angels are beautiful, but these dwarf angels need a good supply of algae on the rocks. They will literally wear themselves out pecking on immature dry rock looking for algae, etc. that they feed upon. So if you can, wait until the tank is mature enough for them.
 
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Blue/green Chromis are a real problem with Uronema these days. I'd avoid them. If you get Uronema in your tank it's there until you sterilize it. Flame Angels are beautiful, but these dwarf angels need a good supply of algae on the rocks. They will literally wear themselves out pecking on immature dry rock looking for algae, etc. that they feed upon. So if you can, wait until the tank is mature enough for them.
Agree entirely^^^

@Benoit Martin at a minimum I would treat all fish with copper. Deworm with general cure both in the water and through food.

I know I am extreme when it comes to QT. I generally treat larger batches so I have more exposure to issues. I can't stress enough though how important it is to have meds on hand so if something does take a turn for the worse, you are at least prepared to deal with it.
 

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Blue/green Chromis are a real problem with Uronema these days. I'd avoid them. If you get Uronema in your tank it's there until you sterilize it. Flame Angels are beautiful, but these dwarf angels need a good supply of algae on the rocks. They will literally wear themselves out pecking on immature dry rock looking for algae, etc. that they feed upon. So if you can, wait until the tank is mature enough for them.
Thank you for the heads up about the Chromis and Flame Angel. I really like the look of the Chromis but I think I'll pass as I am sure I can find some other less risky fish to replace it with. As for the Flame Angel, I will make a note to myself to not get it any time soon to make sure it is placed in a tank with the appropriate nutrients.
 

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Agree entirely^^^

@Benoit Martin at a minimum I would treat all fish with copper. Deworm with general cure both in the water and through food.

I know I am extreme when it comes to QT. I generally treat larger batches so I have more exposure to issues. I can't stress enough though how important it is to have meds on hand so if something does take a turn for the worse, you are at least prepared to deal with it.

So it does sound like I need to start my research on medications and I will implement the most complete protocol that works for me.
Thank you for the response and valuable insight
 

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Thank you for the heads up about the Chromis and Flame Angel. I really like the look of the Chromis but I think I'll pass as I am sure I can find some other less risky fish to replace it with. As for the Flame Angel, I will make a note to myself to not get it any time soon to make sure it is placed in a tank with the appropriate nutrients.
If you are looking for a good mid-level to upper-level fish, take a look at the Saphire Damsel. It's unusual in that it is peaceful. Beautiful azure blue. Very active. Looks great in a group of 4 or more.
 
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@HotRocks Is there a level of copper that kills tomonts (no matter how unsafe for fish)?
Not that I am aware of, although I do believe I remember reading somewhere a post by @Brew12 that was linked to a write up about copper damaging tomonts. Bleach will safely destroy anything unwanted though if you are looking for a way to sterilize a tank free of parasites and bacteria.
 

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