New Clowns Not Eating & Worries.

ShatteredPhoenix

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Hey All,

Apologies for another similar post about clowns not eating but I am new to the hobby and I’m not sure what to do in this situation.

Rough Timeline:
  • 31st October - New Tank completes fishless cycling after about 6 Weeks.
  • 3rd November - Introduction of a pair of new wild clownfish from the LFS.
  • 13th November - Noticed a stringy white poop from the smaller clown, and informed the LFS about it, they advised that it might be the equivalent of fish diarrhoea and told keep an eye on it for a few days as the fish behaviour seemed normally, especially since he was eating properly.
  • 22nd November - Noticed he hadn’t eaten for a few days, and seemed to stay away from food and at the bottom of the tank.
  • 23rd November - Introduction of basis CUC (10 Snails + 1 Conch) + 20% Water Change.
  • 24th November - Turned off Skimmer, removed Carbon and added Fluke Solve to the tank (I’m from the UK).
  • 26th November - Smaller clown is still not eating but I am seeing stringy poop from him more often.
I normally feed my clowns 2/3 times a day:
  • Morning - TDO Chroma Boost
  • Afternoon's - NT Labs Probiotic Marine Flakes
  • Evening - Quarter Cube of Mysis Shrimp for both
I have attached recent Videos that try to capture this odd behaviour. For what it’s worth, the bigger clown seems fine and although eating slightly less, seems to be swimming more actively, no signs of illness and has normal poop.

Triple checked water parameters and they are also all okay, it’s just the one smaller clown that is acting oddly.

Is someone please able to advise?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0854.mov
    55 MB
Hey All,

Apologies for another similar post about clowns not eating but I am new to the hobby and I’m not sure what to do in this situation.

Rough Timeline:
  • 31st October - New Tank completes fishless cycling after about 6 Weeks.
  • 3rd November - Introduction of a pair of new wild clownfish from the LFS.
  • 13th November - Noticed a stringy white poop from the smaller clown, and informed the LFS about it, they advised that it might be the equivalent of fish diarrhoea and told keep an eye on it for a few days as the fish behaviour seemed normally, especially since he was eating properly.
  • 22nd November - Noticed he hadn’t eaten for a few days, and seemed to stay away from food and at the bottom of the tank.
  • 23rd November - Introduction of basis CUC (10 Snails + 1 Conch) + 20% Water Change.
  • 24th November - Turned off Skimmer, removed Carbon and added Fluke Solve to the tank (I’m from the UK).
  • 26th November - Smaller clown is still not eating but I am seeing stringy poop from him more often.
I normally feed my clowns 2/3 times a day:
  • Morning - TDO Chroma Boost
  • Afternoon's - NT Labs Probiotic Marine Flakes
  • Evening - Quarter Cube of Mysis Shrimp for both
I have attached recent Videos that try to capture this odd behaviour. For what it’s worth, the bigger clown seems fine and although eating slightly less, seems to be swimming more actively, no signs of illness and has normal poop.

Triple checked water parameters and they are also all okay, it’s just the one smaller clown that is acting oddly.

Is someone please able to advise?

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

I couldn't see much in the video except that the smaller clown is pretty lethargic. Is the larger clown still eating?

Wild caught ocellaris clowns are a bad bet for a number of disease reasons. I always suggest that people look towards captive raised options.

Regarding the white feces, there are a number of causes of that:



Excess mucus in fish feces:

This will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.
 
Welcome to Reef2Reef!

I couldn't see much in the video except that the smaller clown is pretty lethargic. Is the larger clown still eating?

Wild caught ocellaris clowns are a bad bet for a number of disease reasons. I always suggest that people look towards captive raised options.

Regarding the white feces, there are a number of causes of that:

Excess mucus in fish feces:

This will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.
Hey,

Thanks for the information, the larger clown is still eating and appears to be more active than the smaller one.

The smaller clown wasn't lethargic until about 3/4 days ago which is why I thought I would try the Fluke Solve.

I am having a hard time finding Metronidazole in the UK and it doesn't seem to be very readily available, I also don't have a quarantine tank at the moment, so would prefer reef safe medications if possible.
 
Hey,

Thanks for the information, the larger clown is still eating and appears to be more active than the smaller one.

The smaller clown wasn't lethargic until about 3/4 days ago which is why I thought I would try the Fluke Solve.

I am having a hard time finding Metronidazole in the UK and it doesn't seem to be very readily available, I also don't have a quarantine tank at the moment, so would prefer reef safe medications if possible.
Metronidazole isn’t really reef safe when dosed in the water, just in the food. Of course, in the food doesn’t work if the fish isn’t eating!

Is fluke solve praziquantel? If so, that would be reef safe, but truthfully, it doesn’t really treat issues of fish not eating.

There ma not be a treatment for this issue - viruses and coccidea have no treatment, and gut protozoan treatment requires that the fish is still feeding - sorry..
 
Metronidazole isn’t really reef safe when dosed in the water, just in the food. Of course, in the food doesn’t work if the fish isn’t eating!

Is fluke solve praziquantel? If so, that would be reef safe, but truthfully, it doesn’t really treat issues of fish not eating.

There ma not be a treatment for this issue - viruses and coccidea have no treatment, and gut protozoan treatment requires that the fish is still feeding - sorry..
Yes, Fluke Solve is basically 50% Praziquantel and is meant to cure Flukes and Tapeworms or so the advertising says.

Do you know how long Metronidazole would have to be dosed for in the water to take effect?

The only other option I can think of is; assuming I can keep the fish alive in a poorly equipped QT, would be to get API General Cure via eBay, and dose it in the water to try and save the little guy. However, at that point it’s almost going to cost me double, the monetary value of the fish.

Talking to the LFS person who sold the pair to me, hasn’t really been helpful. They are still insisting that the clowns look okay, and all that was offered was a free water parameter check, they advised me to try feeding the clown brine shrimp.
 
Yes, Fluke Solve is basically 50% Praziquantel and is meant to cure Flukes and Tapeworms or so the advertising says.

Do you know how long Metronidazole would have to be dosed for in the water to take effect?

The only other option I can think of is; assuming I can keep the fish alive in a poorly equipped QT, would be to get API General Cure via eBay, and dose it in the water to try and save the little guy. However, at that point it’s almost going to cost me double, the monetary value of the fish.

Talking to the LFS person who sold the pair to me, hasn’t really been helpful. They are still insisting that the clowns look okay, and all that was offered was a free water parameter check, they advised me to try feeding the clown brine shrimp.
The standard in water treatment for metronidazole is 25 ppm daily for three days.

Live brine shrimp can entice fish to eat and can serve as a laxative to flush out some parasites.
 
The standard in water treatment for metronidazole is 25 ppm daily for three days.

Live brine shrimp can entice fish to eat and can serve as a laxative to flush out some parasites.
Hey Jay,

3rd day of Praziquantel and I think I saw him eat a pellet or two, he also seems a little more active to me and I managed to catch a better video, showing white stringy feces:

P.S. I also seem to be limited on video sizes I can attach sadly, so I have to do a lot of cropping.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0865.mov
    90.5 MB
Hey Jay,

3rd day of Praziquantel and I think I saw him eat a pellet or two, he also seems a little more active to me and I managed to catch a better video, showing white stringy feces:

P.S. I also seem to be limited on video sizes I can attach sadly, so I have to do a lot of cropping.

Still looks a bit lethargic to me, and I can see the stringy feces. The pellets you have, are they the small sinking type? This is a small clown and it may have difficulty swallowing larger pellets.

Have you tried the brine shrimp yet? Even frozen brine might help.
 
Still looks a bit lethargic to me, and I can see the stringy feces. The pellets you have, are they the small sinking type? This is a small clown and it may have difficulty swallowing larger pellets.

Have you tried the brine shrimp yet? Even frozen brine might help.
So I have TDO Chroma Boost B1 Pellets I think which is what the LFS used and they do have some sinkers.

Aside from that I also use NT Labs Probiotic Marine which is flakes.

I haven’t tried Brine Shrimp yet - mainly cause I’m not sure what brand is good in the UK for frozen, and live I’m not sure how to store for the long term.

Any recommendations?
 
So I have TDO Chroma Boost B1 Pellets I think which is what the LFS used and they do have some sinkers.

Aside from that I also use NT Labs Probiotic Marine which is flakes.

I haven’t tried Brine Shrimp yet - mainly cause I’m not sure what brand is good in the UK for frozen, and live I’m not sure how to store for the long term.

Any recommendations?

Any commercial frozen brine shrimp brand should be o.k. For live brine, you can keep it in a container with an air stone and seawater for a few days, just buy a small amount so you can feed it out in 3 or 4 days.
 
Any commercial frozen brine shrimp brand should be o.k. For live brine, you can keep it in a container with an air stone and seawater for a few days, just buy a small amount so you can feed it out in 3 or 4 days.
So I have just tried Frozen Brine Shrimp with the clowns and I definitely the saw the smaller one eat a few bites as well as the bigger one.

Also the smaller one seems to be hanging back out at the top of the tank today, so not sure if it's getting better or not but will keep an eye out and let you know.
 
@Jay Hemdal - Well just to round up nicely, it’s now officially been 7 days (Today is day 8) since I dosed the tank with Fluke Solve.

The smaller clown has started swimming in the higher portion of the tank again, instead of constantly remaining lower and it has also been eating for the last 2 days.

I have seen it eat small portions of pellets every feed, so I assume it’s doing well - I am going to restart my skimmer today and then re-introduce my Carbon with the next water change (next week).

Additionally, I’ve not seen any stringy poop over the last 2/3 days either.
 
Last edited:
I haven’t tried Brine Shrimp yet - mainly cause I’m not sure what brand is good in the UK for frozen, and live I’m not sure how to store for the long term.

Any recommendations?
I gave mine the TMC gamma ones, you can buy them in every shop, MH etc

https://www.tropicalmarinecentre.co...-spirulina-brines-flat-pack-250g-outer-qty-40
Buy the 250g enriched slices (brineshrimp + spirulina or garlic etc) thats gonna be enough forever for two clowns.

If you dont want much waste break off a bit from the slice, crumble it up or wait while thawing a bit then grab some smaller chunks with tweezers and hand feed them :D
 
Just another update @Jay Hemdal,

It’s now been 2 days since I turned the skimmer on and 10 days since I added fluke-solve.

The fish is still eating and no longer showing lethargic behaviour. However, I’ve just noticed that the stringy white poop still remains.

Seems like a mystery right now, but will keep observations up and see if there are any changes.
 

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