New Nitrifying Bacteria Experiment.

Gregg @ ADP

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Update: (PLEASE COMMENT)

I bought 2 x 5 gallon 'kits' that have a HOB filter, 2 heaters, 2 LED's, and 2 small adjustable powerhead for small tanks. 2 Seachem alert badges - to get a handle on free ammonia - I know - not perfect - but - I could not find a local seneye.

Here is the question. Better to run a duplicate test in parallel (i.e. 2 tanks getting the same treatment - a duplicate of the same experiment) - OR - 1 tank getting the dark sump rock and the second getting the lighted rock from the upper tank. and then repeating the experiment later? @Lasse @Dan_P @taricha @Coxey81 @sixty_reefer

Or does it make no difference.
I would do one control tank with normal, seasoned rock in an unlit/algae-free tank. Then multiple experimental tanks set up the exact same way with maybe different exposures to freshwater, or maybe different [NH3]…or both, with different experiments…and then see if you can show a linear regression.
 
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MnFish1

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I would do one control tank with normal, seasoned rock in an unlit/algae-free tank. Then multiple experimental tanks set up the exact same way with maybe different exposures to freshwater, or maybe different [NH3]…or both, with different experiments…and then see if you can show a linear regression.
I have 2 tanks - there will be no linear regression lol
 
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MnFish1

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OK - Day 0. Tanks set up - Pictures below. Ammonia and pH - basically confirmed by Seachem alert - and API.

1. Put 4 gallons of tap water (see measurements below) - we have about 1 ppm chlorine - and no chloramines in our water)
2. Put in the powerhead, another HOB filter (with no media) - for flow - and a heater that should get to 78 F as a final level
3. These are the initial numbers (picture below) - the Seachem and API numbers basically matched the thermometers matched. The equipment is all new.
4. After documenting stability - In tank 1 - Sump rock - dark - will start (similar to @Coxey81)(Change in plan for various reasons) - with 2 ppm fresh saltwater)
4a. in Tank 2 - Light exposed Rock from tank - (similar to @sixty_reefer). Will also be dosed with the same solution (2 ppm)
5. Also put in some information about the tank from which the rock (Lit and unlit) came from)

The Tanks (Jpeg 1):

Tank 1 is on the left. Tank 2 is on the right

Ammonia and pH levels - for our tapwater - not a big deal (Jpeg 2 and 3)

The spreadsheet documenting the parameters from which the original rock came from - as well as a summary of the rest - this will be repeated throughout this experiment

1.jpeg 3.jpeg 4.jpeg Screen Shot 2021-11-17 at 4.48.56 PM.png
 

sixty_reefer

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NO one is interested in this - I can surely stop lol
The lack of interest in some may be because there wasn’t significant evidence in the previous test that fresh water did actually killed bacteria, am still looking forward for your test :)
 
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MnFish1

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@MnFish1 is this going to be dark and light at the same time?
yes. it will basically mimic the experient you and @Coxey81 did. I have 5 lbs of sump rock - and will get 5 'lit' lbs of rock from my display. Will compare the 2 - and replicate
 

DrZoidburg

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OK - Day 0. Tanks set up - Pictures below. Ammonia and pH - basically confirmed by Seachem alert - and API.

1. Put 4 gallons of tap water (see measurements below) - we have about 1 ppm chlorine - and no chloramines in our water)
2. Put in the powerhead, another HOB filter (with no media) - for flow - and a heater that should get to 78 F as a final level
3. These are the initial numbers (picture below) - the Seachem and API numbers basically matched the thermometers matched. The equipment is all new.
4. After documenting stability - In tank 1 - Sump rock - dark - will start (similar to @Coxey81)(Change in plan for various reasons) - with 2 ppm fresh saltwater)
4a. in Tank 2 - Light exposed Rock from tank - (similar to @sixty_reefer). Will also be dosed with the same solution (2 ppm)
5. Also put in some information about the tank from which the rock (Lit and unlit) came from)

The Tanks (Jpeg 1):

Tank 1 is on the left. Tank 2 is on the right

Ammonia and pH levels - for our tapwater - not a big deal (Jpeg 2 and 3)

The spreadsheet documenting the parameters from which the original rock came from - as well as a summary of the rest - this will be repeated throughout this experiment

1.jpeg 3.jpeg 4.jpeg Screen Shot 2021-11-17 at 4.48.56 PM.png
hey no .25 error hmm?
 
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MnFish1

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Day 1 results will be posted with pictures of the rock. A couple issues:

1. will do a 40% water change in the main tank which will give the rock more exposure to “new water”. Rock will be added to the tanks tomorrrow. Does anyone see a use/reason to add the rocks to the tanks nd then let them stabilize for 24 hours before changing to the ammonia solution?
2. I decided to stick with the plan of using the 4 drops per gallon as @Coxey81 did since the api kit measures up to 8 ppm
3. I’m hoping that the tank temp etc with the eqiupment will be stable overnight with the heater
4. Any comments?
 

Soren

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NO one is interested in this - I can surely stop lol
I'm interested as well, but not active enough to contribute and don't have anything significant to add yet. Some day I hope to be able to do some direct experimentation like this to continue to learn more about our systems.
 
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MnFish1

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I would do one control tank with normal, seasoned rock in an unlit/algae-free tank. Then multiple experimental tanks set up the exact same way with maybe different exposures to freshwater, or maybe different [NH3]…or both, with different experiments…and then see if you can show a linear regression.
Btw I was curious. Why the second tank with rock and no ammonia? I mean I can see the reason for it to. Degree but. I suppose I can also see a reason to keep a 2ppm stock of ammonia and test that as well to see if it spontaneously drops. But I’m not sure either is likely to help. But I might do the ammonia and no rock experiment. Just to document over time whether ammonia will process on its own nd how long it will take. Thanks
 

Coxey81

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Day 1 results will be posted with pictures of the rock. A couple issues:

1. will do a 40% water change in the main tank which will give the rock more exposure to “new water”. Rock will be added to the tanks tomorrrow. Does anyone see a use/reason to add the rocks to the tanks nd then let them stabilize for 24 hours before changing to the ammonia solution?
2. I decided to stick with the plan of using the 4 drops per gallon as @Coxey81 did since the api kit measures up to 8 ppm
3. I’m hoping that the tank temp etc with the eqiupment will be stable overnight with the heater
4. Any comments?


Outside of trying to follow me, why the 4 drops per gallon?

It doesn't really help with the experiment imo. It actually hindered mine.

I'd start with one drop, see if it can process that in 24. Then try two, etc. Until you find what it can process in close to 24.

Then just go with that amount.
 
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