New Zoa's... Should I Dim The Lights

Discussion in 'Zoa Discussion (CLUB ZOA)' started by tablesalt, Feb 8, 2018.

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  1. Dim the lights to 40% and crank up over a month

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. Dim the lights to 60% and crank up over a month

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  3. Dim the lights to 8-% and crank up over a month

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. Start all at bottom, move up 1/3 of tank every day

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  5. Start all at bottom of tank, move up 1/3 of tank every week

    57.1%
  6. Start all in final position and make no lighting changes.

    42.9%
  1. tablesalt

    tablesalt Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    I have a big spread of Zoas coming in tomorrow for my Zoa dominant tank (currently without coral). They are going into a MAX-E 170 with Hydra 26s. The seller I am buying from says that they are coming from tanks with 90-200 par (depending on distance from light). My tank is mostly 80-240 par (to the best of my judgement from BRS investigates analysis of Hydra 26, and the placement of my rock.

    Since the Pars are similar, would you dim the lights and place in final position, start at the bottom and move up, or leave the lighting as is because the lighting situation is similar? I have a poll below. Light readings for BRS TV also follow the poll.

    Arriving stock.

    Agent Orange
    Candy Apple Red
    Caribbean Beauties
    Electric Boogaloo
    Fire & Ice
    Giant Green Cinnamon Paly
    Green Button Palys
    Japanese Deepwater
    Japanese Firecracker
    Keds Red
    King Midas
    Lemon Pinwheels
    Mean Green Zoas
    Orange Bam Bam
    Radioactive Dragon Eyes
    Rastas
    Red Hornet
    Reverse Gorilla Nipples
    SBC Blue Spirit Palys
    SBC Guava pinwheels
    SBC Ring Of Fire
    Space Magic Polys
    Toxic Green Palys
    True Blue Hornets
    Tubbs Blue

    1.png

    2.png

    3.png
     
    Cary likes this.

  2. Kremis

    Kremis Well-Known Member

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    I put zoas straight where I want them, no clue where they come from par-wise. I have them at the top of the tank and at the bottom. they can basically go anywhere IMO. Id say it shouldnt matter, being that they were all in somewhat similar par. However, if you do notice closed up zoas towards the top of the tank it might be a good idea move them down more.
     
  3. Palyzoa

    Palyzoa Well-Known Member R2R Supporter ETRC Member R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Woah, Bet that was a pricey order, Im jealous ;)

    Agree with above, put em where you want em and if they don't like it (they will let you know) move them to lower par.if they are reaching for light then higher par.
     
    Cary likes this.
  4. danschoenherr

    danschoenherr Active Member R2R Supporter

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    I would personally start them at the bottom as I see there are some deep water varieties in your list. Give them some time (3-4 days at least) to acclimate and see what they are doing, such as reaching for the light or not opening. They really don't like being moved around too much, so don't move them every day and think they have had time to adjust. The palys will generally like more light and will stretch towards the light if they are not getting enough. Be careful with the green palys and green button polyps. They will spread like wildfire and grow over everything in it's path. I'm breaking down a smaller tank this weekend that HAD some really nice pieces of liverock, but are totally covered in green implosion palys. NIce to look at under the blues, but totally invasive. Have fun, thats a nice start
     
    Cary likes this.
  5. tablesalt

    tablesalt Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Other than the ones with "deepwater" in the name do you have any recommendations for whichh of these are likely lower light? (Under 100 PAR).
     
  6. Cary

    Cary Well-Known Member

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    An old rule of thumb was light colors like light and dark colors like less light. But, that doesn't always hold true.
     
  7. danschoenherr

    danschoenherr Active Member R2R Supporter

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    Unless you know where/what depth they came from, it's hard to tell. There are wild ones collected from shorelines that are sometimes out of water during low tide and/or the water is very cloudy, so these enviroments are hard to duplicate in out tanks. I tend to stay away from wild corals and stick to aquacultured that are proven to grow in a captive system. I am starting to keep a chart of what flow and lighting my zoas/palys prefer for future placement. All I know for sure is that they do not like being moved around too frequently.
     
  8. Cary

    Cary Well-Known Member

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    @tablesalt How did it go? Pictures please.



    Agent Orange
    Candy Apple Red
    Caribbean Beauties
    Electric Boogaloo
    Fire & Ice
    Giant Green Cinnamon Paly
    Green Button Palys
    Japanese Deepwater
    Japanese Firecracker
    Keds Red
    King Midas
    Lemon Pinwheels
    Mean Green Zoas
    Orange Bam Bam
    Radioactive Dragon Eyes
    Rastas
    Red Hornet
    Reverse Gorilla Nipples
    SBC Blue Spirit Palys
    SBC Guava pinwheels
    SBC Ring Of Fire
    Space Magic Polys
    Toxic Green Palys
    True Blue Hornets
    Tubbs Blue





    [/QUOTE]
     
  9. tablesalt

    tablesalt Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Here's where they are all at right now. Almost all seem happy

    20180215_154331.jpg

    20180215_154322.jpg

    20180215_154245.jpg
     
    Cary likes this.
  10. Cary

    Cary Well-Known Member

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    Great start. thanks
     
  11. ckcustomz

    ckcustomz Active Member

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    I always start at my sand bed and see how they react to my light...if they start to extend i move up a little amd so on... if they close up when you move them up then move them back down a little...find that sweet spot....but thats my opinion on zoas
     
    Cary likes this.
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