Nitrite problem (Randy, help us lol)

[Azedenkae]

Hey @Randy Holmes-Farley , @rojees and I am a bit stumped with this issue.

Basically according to the API nitrite test kit, he seems to have 0.5ppm, but it seems more like he had off-the-charts nitrite. He tried doing a 90-95% water change, and test still reads the same.

Yes we are both aware nitrite is not necessarily toxic/lethal to marine fish etc., but it's still curious nonetheless and I'd like to figure it out if possible.

Is there any issues you may be aware of that could be causing this? I am sure @rojees can provide more context as to what is going on.

Or is it really just easier to ignore nitrite here and move on.

Danke!

 

[dvgyfresh]

Yes nitrite is not really toxic to marine life. You may be seeing a lot of nitrite due to not having enough bacteria to convert nitrite - nitrate. Maybe something is dying in the system like a dead snail?

 

[lapin]

I would do a nitrate test. If he has some ignore the nitrite and dont dose ammonia any more.
I see from his other thread he turbo 900 started the tank less than a week ago.
Wait another week get a good test kit for ammonia and see where its at
@brandon429

 

[dvgyfresh]

I would do a nitrate test. If he has some ignore the nitrite and dont dose ammonia any more.
I see from his other thread he turbo 900 started the tank less than a week ago.
Wait another week get a good test kit for ammonia and see where its at

Nitrite present in a tank will make the nitrate test invalid though? I would say the ammonia - nitrite bacteria are established thanks to the bottle but nitrite - nitrate bacteria take longer to form

 

[lapin]

It can show the incorrect amount of nitrate, yes.
Not fond of API kits for any sort of accurate reading.
Thats why I say wait a week and test for ammonia since that is the killer.

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

Edit.. opps have you confirmed with a different test kit? I would suspect a bad test kit with nearly a 100% water change.

 

[lapin]

Maybe he can get a Salfert kit. They seems to be pretty common world wide.

 

[rojees]

Hey everyone,

thanks @Azedenkae for your help and starting this thread.

I have used both Sera Nitrite test and API liquid Nitrite test, as well as the API 5 in 1 strips (which seem very hard to read and thus I am not using it much)

So far, ammonia is dropping close to 0ppm, about 24 hours after I dose 2ppm, so thats great. I guess this is rather early stage (cycling). There are no livestock at all, I did 90% water change but results are the same as before the water change.

Its the nitrites, Sera shows dark red colour, 5.0mg/l, or more. API liquid nitrite show purplish, which I Interpreted to be anywhere from 0.25-1.0mg/l.
Tried testing the API liquid test with RO/Di water and it came back light blue.

@brandon429 has previously advised the cycle is done, but for my own sanity, I really want to see the nitrites down.

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

Hey everyone,

thanks @Azedenkae for your help and starting this thread.

I have used both Sera Nitrite test and API liquid Nitrite test, as well as the API 5 in 1 strips (which seem very hard to read and thus I am not using it much)

So far, ammonia is dropping close to 0ppm, about 24 hours after I dose 2ppm, so thats great.

Its the nitrites, Sera shows dark red colour, 5.0mg/l, or more. API liquid nitrite show purplish, which I Interpreted to be anywhere from 0.25-1.0mg/l.
Tried testing the API liquid test with RO/Di water and it came back light blue.

How far along in your cycle are you? Nitrite processing bacteria are slow to develop. Given that you can process 2 ppm ammonia and nitrite being nearly non-toxic in marine setups I would say you are good to go. Continuing to add ammonia will only increase your nitrites and future nitrate levels. If your nitrite levels are truly 1 ppm after a 90% water change then you have likely been adding ammonia too quickly and the bacteria just need to catch up.

 

[lapin]

If you have no ammonia after 1 day then your tank has finished its basic startup cycle.
Do not dose any more ammonia
Wait 1 week then do a large water change and your good to go

 

[rojees]

How far along in your cycle are you? Nitrite processing bacteria are slow to develop. Given that you can process 2 ppm ammonia and nitrite being nearly non-toxic in marine setups I would say you are good to go. Continuing to add ammonia will only increase your nitrites and future nitrate levels. If your nitrite levels are truly 1 ppm after a 90% water change then you have likely been adding ammonia too quickly and the bacteria just need to catch up.

Well, I originally start 3-4 weeks ago, started with fish flakes etc, and basically nothing happened. I didnt even have rock then.

I then went out to get ammonia solution, fritz and Real Reef Rock. Dosed the fritz, maybe a week ago now or just under a week. After the fritz, I saw the daily ammonia levels dropping close to 0, but the nitrites went through the roof and havent come back down yet. I tested nitrates once or twice too and they were also through the roof.

After water change, they are still through the roof. So I guess with the rock + fritz, its only been a week, give or take.

I'm also stumped why Sera nitrite and API liquid nitrite have such contrasting values. Either way, Nitrites are way too high. Even before the water change, the test showed same results i.e. API nitite 0.25 to 1.0mg/l and sera 5.0mg/l or more

 

[Azedenkae]

Thanks @NeonRabbit221B for actually addressing the question here.

I guess to elaborate and to clarify for everyone else who seems to be misunderstanding, the question here is not whether the tank is cycled. That's fine.

The question is the weird nitrite readings. At this point rojees even did a 90-95% water change and nitrite still read the same, odd either way. If it is truly 1ppm before the water change, then it should be way less after. If it's actually 5ppm+, then that would mean the original concentration of nitrite is at least 50 to 100ppm prior, which is very high.

Again, it's not about cycling itself, it's about the nitrite reading.

 

[dvgyfresh]

Thanks @NeonRabbit221B for actually addressing the question here.

I guess to elaborate and to clarify for everyone else who seems to be misunderstanding, the question here is not whether the tank is cycled. That's fine.

The question is the weird nitrite readings. At this point rojees even did a 90-95% water change and nitrite still read the same, odd either way. If it is truly 1ppm before the water change, then it should be way less after. If it's actually 5ppm+, then that would mean the original concentration of nitrite is at least 50 to 100ppm prior, which is very high.

Again, it's not about cycling itself, it's about the nitrite reading.

Any and all ammonia is being converted to nitrite and there isn’t much bacteria to convert to nitrate. I think there is an ammonia source somewhere in the tank or the ammonia was over dosed. Basically everything is happening correctly just takes time

 

[ying yang]

Q

 

[ying yang]

Is my quarantine tank cycled ?

Hi hope all is ok. Well day 22 of cycling my tank using doctor tims one and only and amnonia chloride 54 litre tank /15 us gallons i believe. 27 march =added 45 drops amnonia Amnonia 2 ppm ,nitrite/nitrate 0 28 march =same. 29 march= added 20 drops amnonia as amnonia 1 ppm so got it back to 2...

www.reef2reef.com

Thread i started in april this year.
Look post 1. 4. 10
I did 95% water change ,took out all the water my gravel vac would until air stopped the siphon and nitrite still reading exactly same reading on api test kit so either nitrate was super super super high or something else going on.
Been using api tests for years and watched lots you tube videos over the years and did test exactly per instructions.
Just thought i share this as similar to what you speaking except my reading could be explained by super high nitrite and thread you started was readable on chart and stayed same etc.

 

[rojees]

Thanks for all the input, everyone. I'm learning a lot from you all. I'm just letting it run for now, no ammonia added.

One more thing, I have Tropic Marin nitribiotics and also Microbacter 7, do I need to add these? in my case?

 

[rojees]

SO finally some changes in the nitrite results.

Sera looks much lighter , last week it was dark red, now very orange, looks even light orange in real life.

API liquid nitrite also looks light purple in real life

Glad to finally see trites going down. I havent added any ammonia since the big water change last week

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Haver you measured nitrate? It should be shocking high (with a false reading) if the nitrite is as high as suggested. 1 ppm nitrite can read as 100 ppm nitrate with some kits.

 

[brandon429]

This reef hasn't met the timeline from a cycling chart for nitrite control, it's not old enough

So
On day 35 after setup do a large water change, refill with non waste water and it'll be in nitrite compliance. If this reef tests high for nitrite while it's new and after being fed (wastewater status) that matches possibilities from a cycling chart

We do the big water change and reassess all cycles on clean water because it starts with known safe water no test required

so nitrite concerned reefers can easily just follow suit on day 35 do a large water change

nitrite will then comply as well based on your initial bioload and by starting with clean water for your testing (and test proofing, it better read zero after the big change or your tester is proven inaccurate)

 

[brandon429]

Edited above as Aze asked for reasons the test might be disagreeing not whether it burns, so i edited my response above.