ok Triton method setup

[Terry DeMott]

I did add different kinds of algae and the chaeto is growing great

 

[reefaland310]

What kinds did ya add

 

[Terry DeMott]

Pom Pom Gracilaria (Gracilaria hayi) - Golf Ball 2
Clean Sea Lettuce (Ulva lactuca) - Golf Ball 2
Flat Blade Gracilaria (Gracilaria tikvahiae) - Golf Ball × 4
Spike Sphere Gracilaria (Gracilaria tikvahiae) - Tennis Ball × 2

 

[reefaland310]

Pom Pom Gracilaria (Gracilaria hayi) - Golf Ball 2
Clean Sea Lettuce (Ulva lactuca) - Golf Ball 2
Flat Blade Gracilaria (Gracilaria tikvahiae) - Golf Ball × 4
Spike Sphere Gracilaria (Gracilaria tikvahiae) - Tennis Ball × 2

Nice you got a good variety of food for tangs if you have any

 

[reefaland310]

If you get a chance I'd like to see some pics of the algae in the refugium

 

[Terry DeMott]

Don't know about last pic but here they are

 

[reefaland310]

Nice selection. Tumbling?

 

[Terry DeMott]

not now but will be cleaning power head

 

[Mark Gray]

not now but will be cleaning power head

I have one power head in my sump but can't get anything to tumble I gave up I just turn mine every day or so

 

[ethridge78]

Looking good

 

[jcl123]

Wow, this is really similar to my setup. My Triton 44 arrives in about a week, just received my Apex stuff.

Some things I am doing differently:

• My tank is a 135G, instead of going in the basement, I am moving my tank out from the wall and putting the sump behind it.
  
• I am using a Lifereef skimmer externally, so I will just have a submersible pump in the skimmer section
  • I guess I should just empty the skimmer back into the same chamber?
• I am going to use the new Sicce advanced AC pumps for both skimmer and return
  • I was going to go Iwaki like you did, but that's allot of power and heat
  • The Sicce I am getting is about 90watts vs over 300w for 70rlt (more if you went 100rlt)

Are you going to add reactors for phosphate / carbon or wait until you actually need them. I haven't decided on that part yet.

I have been doing a ton of research on the Refugium lighting, by spending time on Cannabis forums ;-)
The Kessil H380 is good because it has UVA, but it is expensive for it's size. Then there is the H1200 that has UVA and IR, but it crazy large and expensive.
I may use a combination of two COB LEDs with one H380, still coming down to final decision.

-JCL

 

[Terry DeMott]

I have a set up for GFO but not going to use it.

 

[jwstephens]

I broke mine up into two doses (every 12 hours) 5 Ml on one 6ml on the other all 30 minutes apart. So far so good but now you have me wondering if I should tighten them up closer together.

 

[Mark Gray]

i am curious to see how your red forms of algae grow i had the sea lettuce but the cheato out competed it

 

[clover128]

Just used a regular hole saw no water drill slow and don't force it

Would love to see some tank pics as things progress. I'm early stages of planning a triton setup too....although I'm tempted to try Dymico!!

 

[Mark Gray]

Wow, this is really similar to my setup. My Triton 44 arrives in about a week, just received my Apex stuff.

Some things I am doing differently:

• My tank is a 135G, instead of going in the basement, I am moving my tank out from the wall and putting the sump behind it.
  
• I am using a Lifereef skimmer externally, so I will just have a submersible pump in the skimmer section
  • I guess I should just empty the skimmer back into the same chamber?
• I am going to use the new Sicce advanced AC pumps for both skimmer and return
  • I was going to go Iwaki like you did, but that's allot of power and heat
  • The Sicce I am getting is about 90watts vs over 300w for 70rlt (more if you went 100rlt)

Are you going to add reactors for phosphate / carbon or wait until you actually need them. I haven't decided on that part yet.

I have been doing a ton of research on the Refugium lighting, by spending time on Cannabis forums ;-)
The Kessil H380 is good because it has UVA, but it is expensive for it's size. Then there is the H1200 that has UVA and IR, but it crazy large and expensive.
I may use a combination of two COB LEDs with one H380, still coming down to final decision.

-JCL

I have the H380 on one tank it does a great job, I agree I need another for my new build but I hate to spend the 300 on another but I may do it

 

[jcl123]

I have the H380 on one tank it does a great job, I agree I need another for my new build but I hate to spend the 300 on another but I may do it

Take a look at these:
http://timbergrowlights.com/

- These are COBs (Chip On Board) LEDs, currently the most efficient type of LED yet
- The company can customize them any way you like (they are super nice and helpful), they also sell DIY kits that are ready to go
- One of their 2-unit 200w setups is about the same price as an H380, but over twice the power (twice actual power, plus higher efficiency)
- They have 0-10v dimming capability (have to ask for driver with that) so you can fully control it with Apex

These are full-spectrum lights that run between 400nm and 750nm, so they don't include UVA (365nm to 410nm) or NIR (750nm - 780nm) but they are very widely used for growing all sorts of things on a large scale with great results.

The H380 does provide UVA but not NIR, The H1200 does have both UVA and NIR. So I think you can assume the NIR isn't critical. I don't know how important the UVA is, other than plenty of people grow fine without it. They said some of their customers added black lights or reptile lights (for UVA or UVB). I have been looking into ways to do that with supplemental LEDs, but it may not even be important for Chaeto and other macros anyways.... It does not increase photosynthetic yields, it provides secondary effects such as increasing the plants immunity to disease, it also increases the level of THC in Cannabis (because it is basically sun screen for the plant).

I was actually thinking of of using one H380 and two 100w Vero COBs (one at say 5000K and one at 3000K, for example). This would provide a very wide full spectrum, and the H380 would provide UVA.
This will be very interesting especially when experimenting with several different species of macro algae. These lights would be amazing if you wanted to do a very large Triton setup.

This is based on quite allot of research on various horticulture and cannabis forums, this is the result of that. There are thousands of types of lights, and most are garbage made in China.

- The COBs are particulary effective in this case, because they will have the highest penetration into the water and algae bed of any light.
- In horticulture terms they call this "canopy penetration", using HID or other lights to get to leaves further down and below other layers of leaves
- Most LED fixtures use 3w LEDs, (some even less), these won't work unless the light is right on the subject, like a few inches (better off with T5)
- More expensive fixtures use 5w LEDs, these are great and will out perform T5 lighting
- They now have 10w LEDs, but it is early for those, they are not widely available and don't have many types available
- Then you have these COBs that are a powerful single-point light source, it will out-penetrate even HID lighting

Because basically what Triton (and similar methods) are is salt-water Aquaponics, which is a well studied field and there is lots of information to draw from.

-JCL

 

[jcl123]

I have a set up for GFO but not going to use it.

I just want to be prepared in case I need it. So I wanted to see what they recommend, having trouble finding info on that.

I have a Rainbow Lifeguard setup that could do carbon if it is OK running that much water through it, and I could branch off for an AL99/GAC reactor.

-JCL

 

[Mark Gray]

Take a look at these:
http://timbergrowlights.com/

- These are COBs (Chip On Board) LEDs, currently the most efficient type of LED yet
- The company can customize them any way you like (they are super nice and helpful), they also sell DIY kits that are ready to go
- One of their 2-unit 200w setups is about the same price as an H380, but over twice the power (twice actual power, plus higher efficiency)
- They have 0-10v dimming capability (have to ask for driver with that) so you can fully control it with Apex

These are full-spectrum lights that run between 400nm and 750nm, so they don't include UVA (365nm to 410nm) or NIR (750nm - 780nm) but they are very widely used for growing all sorts of things on a large scale with great results.

The H380 does provide UVA but not NIR, The H1200 does have both UVA and NIR. So I think you can assume the NIR isn't critical. I don't know how important the UVA is, other than plenty of people grow fine without it. They said some of their customers added black lights or reptile lights (for UVA or UVB). I have been looking into ways to do that with supplemental LEDs, but it may not even be important for Chaeto and other macros anyways.... It does not increase photosynthetic yields, it provides secondary effects such as increasing the plants immunity to disease, it also increases the level of THC in Cannabis (because it is basically sun screen for the plant).

I was actually thinking of of using one H380 and two 100w Vero COBs (one at say 5000K and one at 3000K, for example). This would provide a very wide full spectrum, and the H380 would provide UVA.
This will be very interesting especially when experimenting with several different species of macro algae. These lights would be amazing if you wanted to do a very large Triton setup.

This is based on quite allot of research on various horticulture and cannabis forums, this is the result of that. There are thousands of types of lights, and most are garbage made in China.

- The COBs are particulary effective in this case, because they will have the highest penetration into the water and algae bed of any light.
- In horticulture terms they call this "canopy penetration", using HID or other lights to get to leaves further down and below other layers of leaves
- Most LED fixtures use 3w LEDs, (some even less), these won't work unless the light is right on the subject, like a few inches (better off with T5)
- More expensive fixtures use 5w LEDs, these are great and will out perform T5 lighting
- They now have 10w LEDs, but it is early for those, they are not widely available and don't have many types available
- Then you have these COBs that are a powerful single-point light source, it will out-penetrate even HID lighting

Because basically what Triton (and similar methods) are is salt-water Aquaponics, which is a well studied field and there is lots of information to draw from.

-JCL

Wow thanks for the info, my new system will be set up in the first part of next year. Can't wait to look more at all this info you sent but time to work now thanks

 

[Titus]

Take a look at these:
http://timbergrowlights.com/

Check out RapidLED before you buy... they sell cheaper yet more complete kits with the same COB led. https://www.rapidled.com/cree-cxb3590-100w-led-grow-kit/