Orange Setosa (Montipora) PSA!!

LilElroyJetson

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Background Classification

All of the hard corals fall under the order, Scleractinia, which falls under the subclass Hexacorallia. Hexacorallia is under the class, Anthozoa, within the phylum, Cnidaria.

So, when we talk about SPS coral, some people say, "small polyp stony" coral, while others say "small polyp Scleractinian coral" which means the same thing. It's worth noting that the terms "SPS" and "LPS" wouldn't be found in any marine biology book as they are terms used exclusively in the reef hobby, but they're useful to hobbyists for discussing different coral types based on characteristics we easily see.

Screen Shot 2019-04-12 at 5.58.20 PM.png

Screenshot courtesy of @Seawitch


There are 15 families that fall under the order, Scleractinia. Acroporidae is the first one. And within Acroporidae is the genus, Montipora.

Orange Setosa (Montipora Setosa)


“The Orange Setosa is an awesome Montipora species with a rather unique growth form among SPS corals. This coral is famous for its intense orange coloration but it can appear pink when placed under very intense lighting. As the Orange Setosa colony grows, it forms an undulating encrusted base and branches that eventually fuse together before branching again. Mature colonies often have extremely unusual shapes and it seems that no two colonies are ever the same. Compared to other Montipora species, the Orange Setosa has very few polyps however they give the otherwise smooth surface a delicate texture. The Orange Setosa is a relatively slow grower, but we have found it to be hardy and tolerant of a wide range of lighting and flow conditions.”

Source: ORA, Orange Setosa (Montipora setosa)

Location:
Indo-Pacific - Montipora have a wide distribution are typically found around the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Source: Tidal Gardens, Orange Montipora Setosa

Feeding:
Montipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column.
Source: ibid.

Requirements:
Flow: Moderate-High
Lighting: Moderate-High
Placement: Bottom-Middle
(Via: Unique Corals)

Discussion:
What’s the difference between these two corals?

(A)
A1937B74-D193-4A20-A847-55B4157815CE.jpeg


(B)
3E6E625D-3FF7-423E-8385-462E8DD9D42B.jpeg


Answer: Coral (A) is RTN'd/dead, and coral (B) is thriving. Same tank. One is just a few inches lower on the rockwork than the other but also on the outter edge of the tank where the lighting is less intense. RTN stands for Rapid Tissue Necrosis.

The Orange Setosa is one of my favorite corals. Both of these frags came from the same colony and arrived in great shape. Recommended PAR for these when I purchased them from Unique Corals was 200-250 PAR. While the dead one did really well on my Frag rack for a month, once I mounted it to the liverock where I’d hoped it would thrive, unfortunately, it instead completely RTN'd within the day.

Admittedly, my the lighting on my tank is very intense and likely overkill. I am running 2 AI Hydra 26 HD lights running the Daxby schedule about 14” above the water on an 18” deep 30 falling long tank. PAR in the top center of my tank where most of my acros are is between 380-450 (like I said, pretty intense). While I light acclimated these corals, the 250-300 par where I placed the Orange Setosa ultimately proved to be way too intense for the coral, it RTN'd, and I had to purchase a replacement to make up for the loss. Which is a bummer because I liked the structure of the one I killed a lot more.

I was surprised because I have 3 other Montipora under much more intense lighting in my tank, and every other coral in the tank has great color and polyp extension.

My opinion, and this may be common to others who have had more experience with this coral, is that the Orange Setosa Montipora is a LOW LIGHT SPS coral. It may still be considered high light to true low light corals such as softies, but in comparison to some other light loving Montipora, mine has shown the best color under 150-200 PAR. If you don’t have a PAR reading device, I would suggest starting the coral in a very low light, moderate/high flow area in your tank and slowly move it up to where you want it in the tank while paying very close attention to it once you move it so if it begins to bleach you can move it back to a much lower light area immediately to prevent a loss like the one I had. I’ve found a few other posts on R2R that corroborate my experience and I just wanted to share my experience with you all so that nobody else suffers the same loss I did even when I thought I had acclimated it properly. :)

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Author Profile: @LilElroyJetson has been reef keeping for over 5 years and is currently working on his scuba certification. He works as a transactional attorney by day and hopes to begin propagating high end coral exclusively for Reef2Reef members in the near future. His other love along with reef keeping is taking care of his two dogs, Diesel, a precious American Pit Bull, and Louis, a devil-child French Bulldog. His build thread has a link below.
 
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lolgranny

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(A) doesn’t look like a Montipora at all with that structure

Indeed, you should always acclimate your corals to your lighting.
 
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LilElroyJetson

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(A) doesn’t look like a Montipora at all with that structure

Indeed, you should always acclimate your corals to your lighting.

It is indeed an Orange Montipora Setosa. They have a branching and encrusting structure. Here is a photo of it before it bleached.

EC1E4738-06C6-43C4-AEC4-5468EDF0BC72.jpeg


And it was slowly acclimated over the course of a month. Unfortunately, regardless of the acclimation, the final place on the rockwork I placed it, despite only being ~50 PAR higher than where it was happily prior, proved to be too intense.
 
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LilElroyJetson

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My guess is that if your tank isn’t brand new, your issue is not the light it’s the lack of nutrients.

Considering another specimen from the same colony is thriving in the same tank and that it was doing fine for a significant time prior to the move, I would have to disagree. My phosphates are pretty high and I have been direct feeding the corals in addition to regularly feeding the fish and dosing aminos. If the tank was that devoid of nutrients, it would probably follow that the other specimen of the same coral and the other corals in the tank would be suffering, which is not the case. I am also not the only person on R2R which has found that this is an SPS coral that does better in lower light in comparison to other SPS. This is not to say that it can’t be kept in higher PAR, there are always exceptions, but this is my experience and the experience of a few others with this specific specimen. I am simply recommending it be kept in lower light with moderate flow for the best coloration and success.
 
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Macdaddynick1

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Ok let’s get to the bottom of this. Your coral RTNd and not bleached. This is important to note. Since we haven’t seen the bleached version of the skeleton, you cannot say that something other than light couldn’t do it.
It could have been that you mounted the coral and it was injured during the move, it could have been that your flow was not as favorable in that particular spot.
In fact, here’s an interesting observation, it could have very well been a light shock, you took a coral from an outer edge of your tank and raised the par by too much. That doesn’t mean that this particular coral cannot sustain the higher light conditions, it just means that you moved it too fast. This Type of RTN can happen to even the most light-loving acros.
The only reason I am saying this is that I’ve had this coral in close to the top of my tank that hits nearly 600 par, and it didn’t RTN like yours did. It could very well relate to the light change, but it doesn’t have to mean that this monti doesn’t like the light.
Also, if you want a prove your PSA, you can grow the monti you already have and cut a small piece of it. Place it in the spot where your current Monti RTNd and see if that piece will RTN also.

P.S. - sorry didn’t mean to turn your post into a debate. I just think, other things could have caused the RTN.
 
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LilElroyJetson

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Ok let’s get to the bottom of this. Your coral RTNd and not bleached. This is important to note. Since we haven’t seen the bleached version of the skeleton, you cannot say that something other than light couldn’t do it.
It could have been that you mounted the coral and it was injured during the move, it could have been that your flow was not as favorable in that particular spot.
In fact, here’s an interesting observation, it could have very well been a light shock, you took a coral from an outer edge of your tank and raised the par by too much. That doesn’t mean that this particular coral cannot sustain the higher light conditions, it just means that you moved it too fast. This Type of RTN can happen to even the most light-loving acros.
The only reason I am saying this is that I’ve had this coral in close to the top of my tank that hits nearly 600 par, and it didn’t RTN like yours did. It could very well relate to the light change, but it doesn’t have to mean that this monti doesn’t like the light.
Also, if you want a prove your PSA, you can grow the monti you already have and cut a small piece of it. Place it in the spot where your current Monti RTNd and see if that piece will RTN also.

P.S. - sorry didn’t mean to turn your post into a debate. I just think, other things could have caused the RTN.

No apology necessary. I appreciate the response and the challenge to the potential causes of the coral’s deterioration in its condition. I should have specified I did eliminate flow as a potential cause, at the lowest flow setting on my powerheads in combination with my return, I am on average getting over 60x flow and the deteriorated coral was in a high flow spot. In addition, it was raised ~50 par at a time slowly to the spot where it sat, it could be that it was light shock and to be fair I did note in another reply that of course I am aware that there will be exceptions to this and the low light recommendation is simply my opinion that I based on the fact that UC also recommends lower PAR for this particular coral, my personal experience, a couple other R2R members anecdotal experiences, and where others typically keep the coral in their tank. I’m happy to know yours has thrived in a much higher PAR. I will be fragging a piece off when this guy grows and will give your recommendation a shot nonetheless. I appreciate the reply. :)
 

lolgranny

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It is indeed an Orange Montipora Setosa. They have a branching and encrusting structure. Here is a photo of it before it bleached.

EC1E4738-06C6-43C4-AEC4-5468EDF0BC72.jpeg


And it was slowly acclimated over the course of a month. Unfortunately, regardless of the acclimation, the final place on the rockwork I placed it, despite only being ~50 PAR higher than where it was happily prior, proved to be too intense.

Definitely a setosa. First photos structures looked like a acro
 

lolgranny

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No apology necessary. I appreciate the response and the challenge to the potential causes of the coral’s deterioration in its condition. I should have specified I did eliminate flow as a potential cause, at the lowest flow setting on my powerheads in combination with my return, I am on average getting over 60x flow and the deteriorated coral was in a high flow spot. In addition, it was raised ~50 par at a time slowly to the spot where it sat, it could be that it was light shock and to be fair I did note in another reply that of course I am aware that there will be exceptions to this and the low light recommendation is simply my opinion that I based on the fact that UC also recommends lower PAR for this particular coral, my personal experience, a couple other R2R members anecdotal experiences, and where others typically keep the coral in their tank. I’m happy to know yours has thrived in a much higher PAR. I will be fragging a piece off when this guy grows and will give your recommendation a shot nonetheless. I appreciate the reply. :)

It does look better in lower lighting. Higher will make it look more pink then red. It’s a very hearty coral so I’d guess it’s something other then lighting as well. If you were local I’d give you a free replacement lol.
IMG_0782.jpg

Silly thing grows like a weed and is 18”+x12”+
 
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LilElroyJetson

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It does look better in lower lighting. Higher will make it look more pink then red. It’s a very hearty coral so I’d guess it’s something other then lighting as well. If you were local I’d give you a free replacement lol.
IMG_0782.jpg

Silly thing grows like a weed and is 18”+x12”+

That thing is huge! I’ve also heard it turns to more of a pink-ish hue at higher light intensity but didn’t have enough info to verify so I didn’t include that tidbit in the write up. I know who to contact should the survivor experience the same fate. I’ll pay for the shipping and your trouble should that day come (hopefully that won’t be necessary, fingers crossed)! ;)
 
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LilElroyJetson

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So how about this. The white and orange are growing???
1E97EABF-0F2E-4D3E-A226-FA2B600996C1.jpeg

I think this is a good example of one which has a more pink coloration. Interesting that the polyps are still extending well from the white portion. I can’t speak to your tank or your experience because as others have noted, other factors can of course come into play. Do you know what is causing that portion to go white? This seems more likely to be slow tissue nigrosis but maybe @Macdaddynick1 can chime in. Or maybe it has been grafted as @lolgranny suggested.
 

lolgranny

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That thing is huge! I’ve also heard it turns to more of a pink-ish hue at higher light intensity but didn’t have enough info to verify so I didn’t include that tidbit in the write up. I know who to contact should the survivor experience the same fate. I’ll pay for the shipping and your trouble should that day come (hopefully that won’t be necessary, fingers crossed)! ;)

I think you’ll be fine! Give it a few years and you’ll have one larger then this guy. It’s been chopped up hundreds of times, moved from the 400g system to the 700g which was setup the day prior. It’s a survivor. Wish you could see it in person and the millions of brittle star arms that pop out of it
IMG_0817.jpg
 
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LilElroyJetson

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I think you’ll be fine! Give it a few years and you’ll have one larger then this guy. It’s been chopped up hundreds of times, moved from the 400g system to the 700g which was setup the day prior. It’s a survivor. Wish you could see it in person and the millions of brittle star arms that pop out of it
IMG_0817.jpg

Incredible. Time will tell! :)
 

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It’s “grafted” I bet under the right blue lighting it would look green. Good photo
Nope not grafted. I've had it for a long time and it never grew until recently. The white and orange are getting larger with new growth. I'll dig around for the old photo when it started growing the white part.
 

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lolgranny

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Nope not grafted. I've had it for a long time and it never grew until recently. The white and orange are getting larger with new growth. I'll dig around for the old photo when it started growing the white part.

My vote is it still it, but maybe you bleached it and the part that is still white is the part which hasn’t recovered yet. That’s the only 2 options really. It clearly isn’t dying.
 

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You beat me to it.
ab22435b8f775d304ea54e580eb8fc95.jpg
409ca72675d53869d18b2360d943481b.jpg


Though, that’s pretty light green.

That’s a really beautiful colony. I hate when they take sides and only show one color. Yours is pretty even. When mine was in the old system it started going green on part of it. Could only see it when my VhOs were on. Straight halide. Nope. Changed systems, haven’t seen it again.
 

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