Overflow leaking

[hube]

Got an Eclipse l and after much time, I finally got it plumbed to the best of my ability in the bean animal style. However, I for some reason watched the ONE YouTube video where the person cemented their inner overflow in, meaning I can’t pull out any of the elbows because they are cemented into the bulkheads. I wouldn’t care too much, except, now when I try to screw in the overflow, it doesn’t screw in all the way because the bulkhead thread hits the pvc and doesn’t move any further causing a gap.

I’m desperate to find a way around the fact that I have to buy more bulkheads and semi restart my plumbing, what did I do wrong other than cementing the inside? Any advice to fix this or how to make this better in the future is greatly appreciated.

 

[Sassafras]

A picture might help, but I am having trouble "seeing" the problem. The standpipe is glued into the flange end of the bulkhead fitting and is on the inside of the box. How is that interfering with the bulkhead nut and stem threads on the outside of the box?

Oh, just reread your post and think I understand. Its not the standpipe bulkheads that won't thread up tight, it is the tank bulkheads. Still give us a picture, it might help us out.

 

[KrisReef]

Never cement the internal pieces. They should be inserted without glue so you can move them if you ever need to.

But since you have this issue, perhaps you can grind down a flat spot on the offending pipe to gain more clearance for tighetening?

I hate plumbing, sorry.


EDIT: I also use silicone GREASE (not sealant) on the threads to help them move easily. These are made to be hand tightened to set the rubber gasket seal in place and OVERTIGHTENING can also cause leaks when the gasket deforms under excess pressure.? YOu might get lucky and loosen and retighten the fitting (hand tight) and fix this leak?? GL

 

[Sassafras]

Dremel maybe? You only need enough thread for the nut to fully engage.

 

[hube]

Never cement the internal pieces. They should be inserted without glue so you can move them if you ever need to.

But since you have this issue, perhaps you can grind down a flat spot on the offending pipe to gain more clearance for tighetening?

I hate plumbing, sorry.


EDIT: I also use silicone GREASE (not sealant) on the threads to help them move easily. These are made to be hand tightened to set the rubber gasket seal in place and OVERTIGHTENING can also cause leaks when the gasket deforms under excess pressure.? YOu might get lucky and loosen and retighten the fitting (hand tight) and fix this leak?? GL

I’ll give it a shot hand tightening, does the clearance between the bulkhead and the weir affect anything?

 

[hube]

Dremel maybe? You only need enough thread for the nut to fully engage.

I’ll give it another shot hand tightening, if no luck I’ll dremel. Thank you!

 

[KrisReef]

I’ll give it a shot hand tightening, does the clearance between the bulkhead and the weir affect anything?

I'm not sure I understand your question, but my instinct is to say No, since I think they were designed to work together in this application.

 

[hube]

I'm not sure I understand your question, but my instinct is to say No, since I think they were designed to work together in this application.

By clearance, I’m referring to what is being shown in my second and third photo, the gap with it not being screwed in all the way

 

[Sassafras]

Hope it works out. I hate to run into dilemmas like this. Been there more than once and it makes me mad at myself every time.

I think the clearance is adequate. Clearance will widen slightly when you get the bulkhead tight, right?

 

[KrisReef]

By clearance, I’m referring to what is being shown in my second and third photo, the gap with it not being screwed in all the way

OK, yeah if there is a gap because of the pipes obstructing tightening the nuts then you have to remove the obstructing pipes.

Mark the obstrucion area on the pipes that needs to be removed.
(You could also cut away part of the bulkhead fitting that hit the pipes)
Lower the water in the tank to below the bulkhead
take the overflow off the tank and remove the obstructions.
Reassemble, hand tight and pray that the dang thing seals.

(I still hate plumbing)> GL

 

[hube]

Hope it works out. I hate to run into dilemmas like this. Been there more than once and it makes me mad at myself every time.

Been trying to set this thing up for the past 3 months, seems like nothing is working out at this point haha. Thanks for the idea though, did not know they were that cheap, worth the investment.

 

[hube]

OK, yeah if there is a gap because of the pipes obstructing tightening the nuts then you have to remove the obstructing pipes.

Mark the obstrucion area on the pipes that needs to be removed.
(You could also cut away part of the bulkhead fitting that hit the pipes)
Lower the water in the tank to below the bulkhead
take the overflow off the tank and remove the obstructions.
Reassemble, hand tight and pray that the dang thing seals.

(I still hate plumbing)> GL

I realize after this that I never want to touch a pvc pipe again haha. Luckily the tank isn’t filled, this was just my way of “testing” to see if everything was working by pouring water straight into the weir.

 

[KrisReef]

Been trying to set this thing up for the past 3 months, seems like nothing is working out at this point haha. Thanks for the idea though, did not know they were that cheap, worth the investment.

### months.
Oh I bet you hate plumbing now too!

Yeah, If you trim the threaded ends off the bulkheads just a bit you might be able to get this together? When trimming threaded pieces, put the nut on the thread past the part you want to cut. Cut and then back the threads off to clean up the threads before reassembly.

 

[RockRash]

Ok so maybe I'm missing something but I don't see a gasket installed on the tank side of the bulkhead. Maybe I'm just not seeing it in the picture but that would definitely cause the leak.

 

[KrisReef]

Ok so maybe I'm missing something but I don't see a gasket installed on the tank side of the bulkhead. Maybe I'm just not seeing it in the picture but that would definitely cause the leak.

I think these set ups come with two seals for each bulkhead?

 

[hube]

I think these set ups come with two seals for each bulkhead?

Yeah, with how the manual shows, one goes between the weir and tank glass and the other goes between the box and the tank glass.

 

[hube]

Ok so maybe I'm missing something but I don't see a gasket installed on the tank side of the bulkhead. Maybe I'm just not seeing it in the picture but that would definitely cause the leak.

They’re there, just how Eclipse makes theirs, one goes between the weir and tank glass and the other goes between the box and the tank glass.

 

[RockRash]

I think these set ups come with two seals for each bulkhead?

I'm not sure my modular marine overflow only has a gasket on the tank side of the overflow.

 

[RockRash]

Oh

They’re there, just how Eclipse makes theirs, one goes between the weir and tank glass and the other goes between the box and the tank glass.

ok so the weir isn't removable. I just look it up and that makes sense.

 

[RockRash]

I see your not fully plumed on the overflow lines coming out of the box. Couldn't you just loosen up the bulkhead for the standpipes that should give you enough play to tighten up the bulkheads going to the tank. If nothing else cut the pipe in half above the union and pull the whole bulkhead out then just add a coupling when you go to reinstall.

ETA: never mind I was looking at the picture right. Ya a dremel is likely the best bet. Good luck!