pH refuses to remain above 8.0

SeaFeverH2O

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Hey All, new here and slightly new to saltwater tanks, I rescued a huge collection of equipment and some animals from a hoarder, long story short I wound up with a saltwater tank that I didn't necessarily plan for or need. Anyways, my problem is that my pH will not seem to remain over 8.0 and my KH runs higher around 12 drops/ 200ppm. I dose it with "balance" from aqua vitro that intends to raise pH but not KH, and it works for 6 hours or so and always by the next day it returns to 7.8 - 7.9. I use the reef buffer by seachem when my KH is under 11 with no different outcome. I did about a water change a couple days ago where I replaced 7 out of 20gallons. My water parameters are pretty much the same as before the water change and are as follows:

Temp: 78.3°F
pH: 7.9
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 0
Calcium: 420ppm
KH: 11/ 200ppm
Phosphates: 0
Copper: 0.02
Magnesium: 1300
Salinity: 1.024

My setup is a square Waterbox 20 gallon tank. The filter is built into the back of the tank in a sectioned off compartment consisting of a filter sock, then 2 mechanical sponge filters, then my bio media. I have 2 clownfish, 1 pistol shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 emerald crab, a few turbo snails, a lettuce leaf nudibranch, one urchin and two different types of hermit crabs. The corals are a 2 Kenya trees, a hydnophora, a cyphastrea, green star coral, and a pavona. I have algae grown I'm trying to get rid of, brown hairy and red fuzzy kinds. For that reason they get light daily but mostly just blue, UV, purple lights. I recently put an aerator in the back filter compartment to try and boost the oxygen in the water and it seems like it's keeping it from dropping below pH 7.8 but nothing I do keeps it at 8.2. I had red slime awhile back but treated that with red slime product that worked great and all gone by the next day. Additionally about a two months ago one of the clowns had fin rot, I foolishly treated with rally pro by ruby reef which although is supposed to be safe for mixed tanks decimated my tank and contributed mostly to the total losses Ive had since January which is some corals (a favitte and other hydnophora and pavona is barely holding on), two conch's, two or three turbo snails, a fire goby and an emerald crab. I just got "Fuel" by aqua vitro meant to be nutrients for corals in hopes that it will help because my corals don't seem to be very happy and it looks like the clown that had fin rot is missing some tiny pieces of its tail again.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am new to this, the only saltwater tanks I've owned prior to this were back home in Hawaii where water changes and acquiring critters is way different and easier than in Boston so this is my first time with a serious filtration system since I can't bring a bucket of the same seawater as is in my tank from the ocean. I have 3 freshwater tanks that are beautiful and run perfect with little interference but this reef is putting me on the struggle bus, mahalo for the help!

-G

P.S. cant figure out how to rotate the photos, its bugging the **** outta me but gotta go to work, apologies... especially to anyone else with OCD

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Uncle99

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I have never once measured PH in my DT but do employ those things that may raise it

I would never use any buffer.

I pay great attention to salinity and alk and work to keep nitrate and phosphate at trace levels.

Infrequently I check.CA and MG.

Ph is super hard to measure accurately and the PH in most reef tanks just fine.

IMM monitoring PH does not provide any great value.
 

BriDroid

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You can always take a cup of aquarium water and place it outside with an air stone. Run it for an hour, and if the pH goes up to 8.2-8.4ish, then you know that CO2 is the culprit. That is exactly how mine behaved.

Mine runs 7.7-7.8 in the morning and 8.1-8.2 in the afternoon before lights out. I was staying below 7.9 in the afternoon until I added a small CO2 scrubber. My corals all look healthy and are growing, so I'm not sure that the low pH is an actual issue.

I monitor mine 24/7 with a PinPoint pH monitor, so I can always just glance over and see what the pH is.
 

exnisstech

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The images may be oriented wrong on your device.
I've not had a problem with them ever being rotated.
I'm not sure running higher alk and chasing pH is worth the effort unless your trying to grow and sell frags.
My acro tank starts at 7.6 in the morning and peaks at 7.8 . If we're going in and out a lot it will reach 7.9. I added a monitor a few months ago just out of curiosity. I have no intentions of intervening. I keep my alk mid 8s dkH. Corals are growing well with those parameters.

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Tahoe61

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I have never once measured PH in my DT but do employ those things that may raise it

I would never use any buffer.

I pay great attention to salinity and alk and work to keep nitrate and phosphate at trace levels.

Infrequently I check.CA and MG.

Ph is super hard to measure accurately and the PH in most reef tanks just fine.

IMM monitoring PH does not provide any great value.
^^
I have not measured pH in a decade. I do monitor alk daily.
 
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SeaFeverH2O

SeaFeverH2O

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Wow awesome! that’s great to know and a tremendous amount of help to all of you! I won’t focus so much on ph and maybe the consistent use of balance or buffer is stressing everything out so if I chill with that and let it be maybe the corals will perk up and look happy. Mahalos all!
 

exnisstech

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Looking at the tank (with my head tilted sideways :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:) you may very well be able to maintain that tank with just weekly water changes unless you intentionally want your alk at 11. I target 8-9 dkH because it seems to work well and leaves me some wiggle room up or down if needed. Ive been able to run my 330g for a year with just weekly 25-28g WCs. Alk stays mid 8 dkH using IO purple salt with no dosing. I don't have a lot of hard corals but have a few LPS including a large bubble coral and decent sized blue ridge.
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