Phyto Culturing Setups

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Sterilization, sterilization and more sterilizations is IMO very key. We sterilize every vessel, we label pitchers and use them only for that specific strain after sterilizing each time. We run our culture water through a 120 Watt Lifegard UV running around 7-800 gallons per hour. Then once added to the vessels we add bleach and later neutralize it prior to adding the culture. We sterilize any additions including Fertilizer and Silicate, and again if we feel we need to add more.

We use a heavy duty industrial air pump, inlet filtered through a HIPA furnace filer and then use inline air filters as well. Water air gaps allow us to avoid airborne contaminants.
 
Question on the red light you're using. Is that a refugium light?
No, not a red light. I am not sure why it is a bit deceiving with red in that picture. It's a Home Depot grow strip light, LED, and originally had red, white and blue. Blue died, but it still has good white and red.
 
Is anyone culturing ISO successfully? I tried a few times, but mine keeps turning green.
Do you happen to have a microscope? Might be worth a look. Some microalgae change color depending on light and other environmental factors, so it doesn't have to be a problem (no idea if that applies to Iso though), but it's also quite possible that a contaminant took over simply because it grows better. If you culture something like Isochrysis sp. (the typical T-iso used in aquaculture was reclassified as Tisochrysis lutea btw.) and there are a few Nannochloropsis cells or something similar in there, I can imagine Nannochloropsis taking over in the end.
 
Had that happen on my first try with T-Iso, but so far so good on the second.
Wondered if it was contamination from the Tetraselmis, or through an airline.

Like Reef-by-Steele said, I also try and keep vessels designated to a particular strain even when and after sterilized.
 
Is anyone culturing ISO successfully? I tried a few times, but mine keeps turning green.
Do you happen to have a microscope? Might be worth a look. Some microalgae change color depending on light and other environmental factors, so it doesn't have to be a problem (no idea if that applies to Iso though), but it's also quite possible that a contaminant took over simply because it grows better. If you culture something like Isochrysis sp. (the typical T-iso used in aquaculture was reclassified as Tisochrysis lutea btw.) and there are a few Nannochloropsis cells or something similar in there, I can imagine Nannochloropsis taking over in the end.
I am going to try under the microscope
 
I am going to try under the microscope
Isochrysis/Tisochrysis is very small so I hope you have access to decent magnification or it will be difficult to differentiate organisms. It should move on its own it's flagellated after all.
 
Is anyone culturing ISO successfully? I tried a few times, but mine keeps turning green.
What are you using for light? Have you successfully completed a batch to later have it turn green, or does it turn green on every attempt.

As @EnterName stated, some strains will change colors, but generally due to stress, pH off, temp, or too much too little light.

ISO was a challenge for me for a time, most of my crashes though happened from running too long and becoming nutrient deficient, and those generally turned pale green.

As also stated, contamination is possible. Doesn’t have to be like Nanno from a different culture, you can introduce them airborne as there is literally Phyto everywhere, or cyano. I have received siffeeent strains with hair like lines. Sent it off to a colleague and he said Cyano, but not one he could identify. Knock on wood, I have been able to avoid that with our processes and air gaps, but if you are using vessels with a hole in the lid you can use an air check valve inverted to allow air out but not in, or cover it with gauze.

Anytime I restart ISO from another source I distance my culture from the lights until it shows growth, then tuck it up close. After a full run, I feel it acclimated to our lights and I just run it tight from there on.
 
Question about the need for Sodium Thiosulfate.

I have been adding water and a cap full of concentrated bleach to my empty glass vessels while they sit for 7-10 days. I then dump it out and wash it in tap water and maybe let it air for a few minutes before adding the new boiled / sterilized salt water.

Dumping it out and rinsing it out seems sufficient to eliminate the effects of residual bleach, but maybe I have just been lucky?

And rinsing in tap water may un-due the whole sanitation process (?) but tap water is chlorinated and hopefully mostly bacteria free (?)
 

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