Prime 16 HD vs GHL profilux 70

[Erik the Red]

Hello,

I'm setting up a Waterbox Reef 100.3. Currently, I have one Prime 16HD from my previous tank. This is not enough for an even distribution of the light.

I would like to know if it makes sense to change to a GHL Mitras lightbar 2 instead of buying a second Prime 16HD.

The pro of the GHL, is that I can get it from a store where I have circa 200€ of credit, but this very shop does not sell AquaIllumination...so I would have to pay for the Prime 16HD.
At the same time, I would have to buy some stuff to dim the GHL, as it requires at least a ProfiLux light...still cheaper than the Prime with light support (320€ circa).

Does it make sense to buy the GHL or should just go for a second Prime?

@Lasse, I noticed you use some Mitras in your tank. What would you recommend? Also in term of spectrum...

Thanks everyone!

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Very personally speaking, I would say the prime 16 is not adequate for that tank.

I currently use it on a 15 gallon 12" depth for softie's (leather, mushrooms, zoe's), and the lights are set at 85%.

I don't believe that it will be very efficient on a 70 gallon 24" depth tank, even 2 of them.

It does advertise that it has light penetration of 24", but personally I don't believe, its not strong enough to penetrate that deep IMO.

But I don't know, interested in other opinion...

 

[brandon429]

two over a 29-40 gallon would be max for the light in my opinion/a nano's light not for full size setups.

 

[Lasse]

Hello,

I'm setting up a Waterbox Reef 100.3. Currently, I have one Prime 16HD from my previous tank. This is not enough for an even distribution of the light.

I would like to know if it makes sense to change to a GHL Mitras lightbar 2 instead of buying a second Prime 16HD.

The pro of the GHL, is that I can get it from a store where I have circa 200€ of credit, but this very shop does not sell AquaIllumination...so I would have to pay for the Prime 16HD.
At the same time, I would have to buy some stuff to dim the GHL, as it requires at least a ProfiLux light...still cheaper than the Prime with light support (320€ circa).

Does it make sense to buy the GHL or should just go for a second Prime?

@Lasse, I noticed you use some Mitras in your tank. What would you recommend? Also in term of spectrum...

Thanks everyone!

Mitras lightbar 2 has one thing that no other reef light have - RGB diods. Red,Green and Blue. With help of these you get a very white approach of the light (for your eye) in spite of heavy blue in the spectra. I would prefer to go with the deep actinic - the RGB give even this bar a rather white hue. If you chose not to have a computer - the bars works as on/off. 0 or all diods on 100 %. The 70 needs a PSU of at least 43 W. You buy the PSU separately. I would suggest to buy a PSU of at least 100 W. If you start with on 70 bar - and later on want to add another - no need of buying a new PSU - just plug both in with a splitter. If you buy a 150 W PSU - you can at least use 3 pcs of 70 bars - probably 4 if you not run them at 100 %. You can use 4 bars on one passiv splitter and 16 bars if you use one active and 4 passive splitters. For me personally - I would not change light - I´m more than pleased with my 4 pcs of 120 bars. (80 gallon)

The light pattern of the bars is very similar to T5 tubes - a very well distributed light - evenly over the whole aquarium. No lenses - no rainbow effects

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Erik the Red]

Very personally speaking, I would say the prime 16 is not adequate for that tank.

I currently use it on a 15 gallon 12" depth for softie's (leather, mushrooms, zoe's), and the lights are set at 85%.

I don't believe that it will be very efficient on a 70 gallon 24" depth tank, even 2 of them.

It does advertise that it has light penetration of 24", but personally I don't believe, its not strong enough to penetrate that deep IMO.

But I don't know, interested in other opinion...

I had them on my WB 35.2 and lights were at 45%.

 

[Erik the Red]

Mitras lightbar 2 has one thing that no other reef light have - RGB diods. Red,Green and Blue. With help of these you get a very white approach of the light (for your eye) in spite of heavy blue in the spectra. I would prefer to go with the deep actinic - the RGB give even this bar a rather white hue. If you chose not to have a computer - the bars works as on/off. 0 or all diods on 100 %. The 70 needs a PSU of at least 43 W. You buy the PSU separately. I would suggest to buy a PSU of at least 100 W. If you start with on 70 bar - and later on want to add another - no need of buying a new PSU - just plug both in with a splitter. If you buy a 150 W PSU - you can at least use 3 pcs of 70 bars - probably 4 if you not run them at 100 %. You can use 4 bars on one passiv splitter and 16 bars if you use one active and 4 passive splitters. For me personally - I would not change light - I´m more than pleased with my 4 pcs of 120 bars. (80 gallon)

The light pattern of the bars is very similar to T5 tubes - a very well distributed light - evenly over the whole aquarium. No lenses - no rainbow effects

Sincerely Lasse

I will have only softies and gorgonians, so nothing that would require a high intensity. Should it be OK with one deep actinic 70 right?

What I would need, excluding the lightbar itself, is a controller (ProfiLux Light WiFi), the RJ45 cable and the power supply for the light. Anything else?
Do I actually need a splitter for a single light?

thank you Lasse

 

[brandon429]

this helps to know. that they had some power reserves still on the 35

 

[Erik the Red]

this helps to know. that they had some power reserves still on the 35

At least that was my case…
I was that close to burn a hammer coral on the bottom, with lights close to 70%

so far I’ve had more issues due to lights being too strong than the opposite…but maybe I’m doing something wrong

 

[SilvermistInc]

Go T5!

 

[brandon429]

I run my hd prime over a one gallon stuffed pico reef. it has absolutely changed coral growth and color markedly in only ten days for sure I am seeing new cleaner growth. I run no whites at all only the blues and uv I like to see, this is also tracking out to be very low algae growth on the glass cleaning too, my old kessil was approaching 7 yrs probably was out of spec but this new light is the baddest pico reef light around for sure. removal of any white spectrum/daylight is the first change I'd make if anything was bleaching. some like the 10K look though/more natural and in that case lower % power sounds about right.

I noticed any whites though sure increase my glass cleaning work compared to blues, at least in the micro tank

 

[Lasse]

I will have only softies and gorgonians, so nothing that would require a high intensity. Should it be OK with one deep actinic 70 right?

What I would need, excluding the lightbar itself, is a controller (ProfiLux Light WiFi), the RJ45 cable and the power supply for the light. Anything else?
Do I actually need a splitter for a single light?

thank you Lasse

Start with one unit but I´m rather sure that after test it for a while want to extend your bars

I´ll think you need the splitter even if you only use 1 bar if you use a control unit (P light WiFi) - you need to fit in the signal cable in something. If you run it on/off - you need no splitter.

Go T5!

Or Mitras lightbar 2 - its the same effect and thanks to the RGB chips - the spectra is rather alike a three phosphorous T5 bulb

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Erik the Red]

Start with one unit but I´m rather sure that after test it for a while want to extend your bars

I´ll think you need the splitter even if you only use 1 bar if you use a control unit (P light WiFi) - you need to fit in the signal cable in something. If you run it on/off - you need no splitter.


Or Mitras lightbar 2 - its the same effect and thanks to the RGB chips - the spectra is rather alike a three phosphorous T5 bulb

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks a lot Lasse!

Cheers