The issue is, I had a brook outbreak in my main display which took out my fish. I decided I'm going to upgrade and do everything right this time.What about setting it up with some live rock from your display, and use the water from display water changes to do water changes on the QT?
That’s not an issue, I have a 12.5gallon i’m going to upgrade the light on to house coral and invert and a 30 gallon for qt of all fish thank youYou will need to run two QT systems if you want to do things right. Theres just no reasonable way to use a single tank to effectively QT both fish and corals.
The good news is, a dedicated coral QT will only need to house a very small number of specimens, so keeping it well lit and stable shouldn't be too hard.
Ya i was thinking like it’s definitely going to be a challenge to QT acros. I might try if i’m not having luck im just going to cut it from the frag plug dip and send a prayer up. Definitely still going to QT invertsI’m dealing with this right now. I put a small piece of live rock into a 10g tank with a hob filter and a powerhead. I have about 6 small acro frags, a digi, a torch and some others. I’m shocked at the alk consumption, it’s going down by 3.0dkh per day. I was trying to manage it with water changes but I lost my torch because of the swings. I’m starting a kalk drip to try to help manage it. If it doesn’t work I may give up and move stuff to my main system where I have a dosing pump running and parameters are rock solid stable.
I know, the tank I'm planning now is a 265Gal lol. 30gal being my first tank so fair upgradeYeah this is the first time I have tried QTing acros. The smallest coral tank I’ve ever kept was 120 gallons. I’m used to checking alkalinity after 3 days and making an adjustment. When my torch disintegrated after 2 days and the water tested at 5.3 dkh after having been 8.8 just 36 hours later I was shocked. I don’t know how nano tank keepers do it.
Thank you makes senseStability of most parameters is a matter of livestock density (on average, some livestock will affect parameters more than others...) and how much growth you're shooting for. A 10G with one acro will see less alk consumption than a 300G with 300 similar size acros (or 30 big colonies).
Definitely run the lights and your alk on the low side to slow calcification in QT.
I've seen some tiered QT systems, too. You could do a dedicated QT for short term holding and observation, and isolation of known afflicted corals, and a secondary, smaller QT plumbed to your DT.
A little 3g pico that returns to your sump through a *good* UV sterilizer could offer a reasonable degree of safety and stability for those corals you have thoroughly observed, dipped, and believe to be pest free.
Normal procedure for high ends. I wouldnt risk qt'ing unless cheap pieces.Ya i was thinking like it’s definitely going to be a challenge to QT acros. I might try if i’m not having luck im just going to cut it from the frag plug dip and send a prayer up. Definitely still going to QT inverts
How big is your coral/invert QT?Yes, it's no different than any other system. You can use established live rock from someone else's system. I simply pulled a couple Bio-bricks from my established system. Pick some shrimp, hermits, and Snail to throw in the QT with the coral - this will help keep nutrients available to the corals.
I used Tropic Marin All For Reef for dosing a 1-part complete dosing system to keep things easy. I'm currently quarantining 30 SPS, a Trachy, some chalices, mushrooms, and zoas. These will cook for 76 days..... With the corals, I've got about 25 blue leg hermits, 12 Astrea snails, a Coral Banded Shrimp, and a filter feeding Sea Cucumber.....
I have a light, rock, powerhead, and that's it. 15 ml of TM All For Reef every morning. Everything is stable and happy.