Question about patching holes in glass

AlexG

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I would go with silicone and a piece of glass on the inside of the tank with a 1-2" overlap. Bulkheads are also an option but they should be monitored if they are installed as natural vibrations can loosen them over time(several years). I am not a fan of holes in the bottom of tanks as bulkheads can potentially leak and cannot be replaced without draining the tank. I have had personal experience with this when I did tank maintenance and worked at an LFS along with a few nightmare stories on R2R over the years. Both glass/silicone and bulk heads are good choices and it comes down to your preference.
 
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McJaeger

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Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to go with the glass patch since I won't be removing the plugs later. Unfortunately, when I was removing the overflow I notched the silicone in the seams at both points where the overflow touched the bottom pane of glass. What would be the best way to fill the holes? I'm thinking of scraping the silicone out over the entire length of the patch I'm getting made, butting the patch up against the back panel, and siliconing around the edge/bottom of the patch to seal it in. What are you guys' thoughts?

20200229_135652.jpg
 
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BestCutter

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I got a really good deal on a deep blue 57g reef ready rimless tank, but the center overflow takes up way too much space in the display. I'd like to remove the overflow, patch the holes in the bottom, and drill new holes in the back to plumb a low profile overflow and return. Has anyone done anything like this? What would be the best way to patch the holes? Pics attached for reference.

20200224_212959.jpg 20200224_212950.jpg
I have been reading this thread since you started it (through post #25) and I have to say that it sounds like an absolute disaster waiting to happen. Your water isn't going to leak on anyone's floor but your own so I wish you luck.

Dennis
 
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McJaeger

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I have been reading this thread since you started it (through post #25) and I have to say that it sounds like an absolute disaster waiting to happen. Your water isn't going to leak on anyone's floor but your own so I wish you luck.

Dennis
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 

Neoalchemist

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People fail to realize how LITTLE pressure exists inside your tank. A 30" tall tank full of water exerts 1 psi on the tank bottom
.or bulkhead or whatever.

It's ridiculous to argue that a siliconed piece of glass on the bottom is going to fail. Your whole tank is a siliconed piece of glass!!!!
Id like to see your math on this.
I believe you are vastly under esyimating.
 
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Just the thread I needed. Looking to do the exact same thing for my 93gal cube tank. I was debating bulkheads or glass but the argument of the fact that a glass patch just has less variables to fail sold me on going the glass route.


I would, and did, reseal the entire tank.
When you say reseal, did you just remove the beads of silicone from the inside of the tank leaving the silicone between the panels and reapply new silicone? Or did you actually take all the pieces apart and apply new silicone in between each panel of glass? As stated above, I'm looking to remove an old overflow and I'm sure I'll need to reseal the tank as well.
 

pdxmonkeyboy

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Thank you for that. It's so amazing that people would use their time to insinuate that someone is wrong instead of taking 30 seconds to google it.

Educate yourself, if something seems different that what you thought, maybe find out why...
 

pdxmonkeyboy

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I wouldn't think you would have to reseal the whole thing...as that fillet is not what is making your tank water tight. But if your going to try and patch it, then you have to do the whole bottom. The issue is that silicone will not stick to silicone.

The silicone will also not stick to the glass as strong as the original silicone did as the pores of the glass are now filled with silicone (we are talking molecular level here) but that is reall an FYI more than anything.

You get the holes patched?
 
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McJaeger

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I wouldn't think you would have to reseal the whole thing...as that fillet is not what is making your tank water tight. But if your going to try and patch it, then you have to do the whole bottom. The issue is that silicone will not stick to silicone.

The silicone will also not stick to the glass as strong as the original silicone did as the pores of the glass are now filled with silicone (we are talking molecular level here) but that is reall an FYI more than anything.

You get the holes patched?
Not yet, it's been harder than I expected to find a place that will cut 1/2" glass to size. I ended up ordering the piece online and I'll get to it this week. How would I go about only patching one edge of the glass? I'm still going to have the issue of new silicone contacting old silicone in two places, right?
 

pdxmonkeyboy

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1/4 inch would be PLENTY thick. Even 1/8" would work fine.

That's the rub on the silicone patch. If you dont do the whole bottom.. then its silicone on silicone at some point. I would just fix the little spot you have and call it good. Just make sure the new silicone touches glass on both sides and you will be fine.
 

Neoalchemist

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Thank you for that. It's so amazing that people would use their time to insinuate that someone is wrong instead of taking 30 seconds to google it.

Educate yourself, if something seems different that what you thought, maybe find out why...
This is the actual equation. So yeah, you guys go ahead with that other stuff.
Screenshot_20200301-140440.jpg
 

Neoalchemist

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We are talking about force exerted on the glass not the head pressure of water at 30" these numbers are more in line with the physics I believe.
Screenshot_20200301-144854.jpg
 

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