Red Sea Reefer 250 plumbing changes between versions?

OfficeReefer

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I recently purchased a Red Sea Reefer 250 and found my plumbing looks a lot different that what others are putting together. I'm hoping to add a ReefMat and trying to figure out how to add my Control Panel Slide Out 25 where I would prefer it go but there are pipes here.
1647686323298.png


However, the videos for the Reefer 250 show a straight piping set that looks more useful for space.

This is a prime example.
1647686667189.png

Anyone know if I got the wrong pipes?

I need to fit their dosing pumps and wave controller on the slide out so I expected the left side free like above. I also need the other side for ATO along with Apex Stuff and must fit a Trident somewhere in there too! :)
 

A Young Reefer

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I recently purchased a Red Sea Reefer 250 and found my plumbing looks a lot different that what others are putting together. I'm hoping to add a ReefMat and trying to figure out how to add my Control Panel Slide Out 25 where I would prefer it go but there are pipes here.
1647686323298.png


However, the videos for the Reefer 250 show a straight piping set that looks more useful for space.

This is a prime example.
1647686667189.png

Anyone know if I got the wrong pipes?

I need to fit their dosing pumps and wave controller on the slide out so I expected the left side free like above. I also need the other side for ATO along with Apex Stuff and must fit a Trident somewhere in there too! :)
The plumbing in the first photo is of the Red Sea reefer version 3 (new one). The second photo are of those of older versions.
which version do you own?
 

A Young Reefer

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@A Young reefer I was able to locate a similar item for the E260 and E170 for adding sumps to those. Would this likely work? https://www.aquacave.com/maxr-e-170...fhOuO82d2xc8R8LmBumsoFqfk1o0b5VRoCxXIQAvD_BwE

1647708181610.png
Hey man I am not very sure, here I left a link to the replacement parts that might help you. Most of the parts are labelled to work on both the old versions and the v3.

 

A Young Reefer

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Another issue is that the sump layout of the v3 is quite different, looking forward to see if this will work.
 

Boaz

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I have a v2 with the plumbing in the first photo. I mounted the slide out on the right. There are risers to get it past the door. More mods coming as I decide on other equipment and need to do some more cable mgmt. Added the gate valve.
 

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I received two responses from Red Sea on this as follows:



Thank you for reaching out about your questions for setting up the sump and plumbing for the Reefer 350. The original plumbing would not work in this instance as the sump configuration has changed and is why the lower pipes are now different. Some customers have added custom lower plumbing but I have very limited information for that. All that I really know for that is customers are using the smaller return assembly (R42221 - like what is seen in the original sump for the return pump to connect to.) and just removing the barb to attach the plumbing that they are wanting to use.

You can order the parts needed through either website listed below and you should be able to use the item number given as reference. You might have to try it without the R at the front, depending on how they have it listed on their site.

If you have any issues locating the item needed, please let me know and I will do my best to help.
----------------------------------------


If you view the links below you can see how the configuration of the sump has changed between the V1 and the V3. The placement (and size) for the return is now in a different location as well as the location of the filter socks.

Reefer250 (V1) Sump
https://www.redseafish.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/REEFER-250-Sump-drawing-1.pdf

Reefer250 (V3) Sump
https://www.redseafish.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/REEFER-250-V3-Sump-Dimensions.pdf

If you purchased the part that I mentioned in my previous email, you would be able to move the sump to the other side of the cabinet and just add in custom plumbing so that you can configure it how you need it to be. Unfortunately we do not have any other option available for a different sump or plumbing.
 
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I guess I will need to find a v1 or v2 version, maybe just get a whole new sump. I am adding a custom butlers sink and plumbing for a 10g ATO, RODI and an extra Apex DOS pump to handle water changes. But with their RS Dose4, their wave pump and then all the other Apex stuff and the 5g ATO inside I don't think I will be able to fit all of it without replacing these pipes.

Anyone know why they changed it, was there a truly functional issue with the v1 and v2 designs?
 

dmsc2fs

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If you are going to go through the trouble of changing the plumbing you may as well move away from trying to fit Red Sea pieces in to how you want your layout. I am going through a similar process now. I had a leak in my plumbing so I started ordering pieces. Now that I have the pieces for the repair the leak has stopped so I am doing nothing until my ReefMat arrives. I need to cut the downpipe for the ReefMat so my repairs will happen at that time.

The easiest way to do this is buy 3 of the Red Sea R42221 pieces. You would take the hose barb off all 3 pieces. Well 2 if you are fine with the smaller barb depending on your return pup hose size. For myself I replaced the one that the fitting came with with a 3/4" barb. This is a standard items at Lowes. Sorry for the crappy pic but it is tucked behind my Plumbing Leak Fix-o-Matic (tm). I.E. a silicone cooking mat zip tied in place to funnel the water from the leak into the sump. This will let you run hose right up to the bottom of the tank and you have 1 piece of plumbing out of the way.

IMG_5072.JPG



The next two items have a number of options to choose from. You can remove the hose barb that comes with the fitting and add a screw in fitting to convert from the 32mm Red Sea to any standard size - 3/4", 1", 1 1/2" etc. I plan to go to 1" because that was the cheapest gate valve I could pick up.

IMG_5073.JPG



IMG_5074.JPG


The other option is you can go with a union from CoralVue
Metric/Standard Union Coupling (32mm to 1")
SKU: PVC-UNCPLG-1

The union could be used in 1 of 2 ways.

Option 1: Cut your current downpipe and glue the 32mm union side to your downpipe. You would have standard 1" out the other side to use standard 1" plumbing from Lowes/Home Depot.

Option 2: Use ABS to PVC adhesive cement from Lowes to glue the union onto the outside of the R42221 fitting. This will allow you to move directly to 1" standard plumbing at this point. This option would also provide you the largest discharge opening out of the R42221 fitting.

I decided against the union even after buying it because I cant find clearance for it in my setup. If I go with option 2 the back wall of my stand is too close. I can't go with Option 1 because my current downpipe is leaking at the fitting so I can't use any of it. I also can't choose options 1 because both my downpipes have a 90* hard right just after the fitting. The run parallel to each other without enough clearance for the union.


IMG_5075.JPG


1" gatevalve will replace the Red Sea valve whenever I make my repair. I'm going to go with standard white PVC from Lowes. You can order the same Gray color as the fittings if you wish. I am not concerned with it.

IMG_5076.JPG



Like you stated, I also moved my ATO external. Once you do that you have even more plumbing routing options and you are not limited to Red Sea routing choices.
 
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I have a v2 with the plumbing in the first photo. I mounted the slide out on the right. There are risers to get it past the door. More mods coming as I decide on other equipment and need to do some more cable mgmt. Added the gate valve.
I have an ATO on the right.... nothing to be visible in the office. I also have a 10g ATO with Neptune DOS and FMM I am going to toss in a butlers pantry about 6ft away. Unfortunately, I don't think everything will fit on the right as I have plans for that area already.
 

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