reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[burningbaal]

Just tossing this out there...for anyone with a reef pi and a standalone ATO, I have my ATO plugged into a controlled outlet and on a timer so it kicks on once per hour. I get enormous peace of mind from this and highly recommend it to anyone with similar gear.
The ATO (chinese Kamoer off ebay for $30) has an optical sensor and float backup (and I could add another float if I get around to it). It also, in theory, has a timer system like the Tunze and/or ATK, but I'm not sure it does anything since I'm power cycling it like crazy.
I have a timer set so every hour, on the hour, the ATO outlet (in my ADJ power strip) kicks on and turns off 2 minutes later. This way if all else fails, the ATO can't actually move much water into the display since it is only got power 1/30th of the time.
I might actually reduce this to even less time, we'll see. Right now, it only actually runs for a brief couple of seconds. Sometimes my return pump was spinning wrong (it's a hydor pico 100 in my AIO), so the water level in the return was high, when I get the return going correctly again, the next ATO cycle might run for 10-20 seconds. So I think I might set the timer to run for only 45 seconds or so, we'll see.

Anyways, just an idea. Now the question is what I should use the ATO connectors on the goby for :) I guess I could add sensors and power the ATO jack when those sensors call for it? or just run them as alerts? Or maybe I'll use them for a AWC if I ever set that up?

 

[Schreiber]

I think this is for the temp probe. The reef-pi tutorials utilize a mini stereo headphone / audio jack and the + and - cross over each other when plugging in or removing

Ahhhhh, gotcha. Having 4 conductors really threw me off, since the temperature probes only need 3, while the pH needs 4.

Is anyone actually unplugging their temperature probes often enough to make this upgrade worthwhile? Personally, once I get a sensor connected, it stays in until I'm modifying my setup months later.

 

[marekd1]

Those look nice, similar to XLR connectors. Curious about your comment about blowing a Pi though... What advantage would this actually have over the BNC connector most pH probes already come with?

There is a potential of blowing the PI only if you use the mini stereo plug when adding the temperature senors. Basically you need to make sure there is no power going to the Pi when unplug and plugin in the temp sensors.
If you are not using the mini stereo plug and there is no way for anything to short they you are fine.

The XLR are good BNC as well.

 

[marekd1]

Ahhhhh, gotcha. Having 4 conductors really threw me off, since the temperature probes only need 3, while the pH needs 4.

Is anyone actually unplugging their temperature probes often enough to make this upgrade worthwhile? Personally, once I get a sensor connected, it stays in until I'm modifying my setup months later.

Yes the crossover is the issue as pins will create a short. You only use as many connection points as you want. I have something similar with 8 pins that I use for my lights. Hermetic seal connection makes sure that pins will not corrode over time. Salt does nasty things to wires.

 

[marekd1]

Just tossing this out there...for anyone with a reef pi and a standalone ATO, I have my ATO plugged into a controlled outlet and on a timer so it kicks on once per hour. I get enormous peace of mind from this and highly recommend it to anyone with similar gear.
The ATO (chinese Kamoer off ebay for $30) has an optical sensor and float backup (and I could add another float if I get around to it). It also, in theory, has a timer system like the Tunze and/or ATK, but I'm not sure it does anything since I'm power cycling it like crazy.
I have a timer set so every hour, on the hour, the ATO outlet (in my ADJ power strip) kicks on and turns off 2 minutes later. This way if all else fails, the ATO can't actually move much water into the display since it is only got power 1/30th of the time.
I might actually reduce this to even less time, we'll see. Right now, it only actually runs for a brief couple of seconds. Sometimes my return pump was spinning wrong (it's a hydor pico 100 in my AIO), so the water level in the return was high, when I get the return going correctly again, the next ATO cycle might run for 10-20 seconds. So I think I might set the timer to run for only 45 seconds or so, we'll see.

Anyways, just an idea. Now the question is what I should use the ATO connectors on the goby for :) I guess I could add sensors and power the ATO jack when those sensors call for it? or just run them as alerts? Or maybe I'll use them for a AWC if I ever set that up?

Over time you learn that you have to be like NASA, double on everything especially sensors. Had sump overflow too many times, now always use double sensors to make sure there is no single failure point. If one sensor fails at least you have a way to know as values for each sensor will be different and this should not be the case in normal state. Optical is the way to go.

 

[lmm1967]

Over time you learn that you have to be like NASA, double on everything especially sensors. Had sump overflow too many times, now always use double sensors to make sure there is no single failure point. If one sensor fails at least you have a way to know as values for each sensor will be different and this should not be the case in normal state. Optical is the way to go.

After witnessing 2 snails "resting" on a float for a float switch - I agree with the optical recommendation.

 

[Ranjib]

Hey all,
I've got a ML goby hat and a just might a no name black box (used) that in trying to set up here. The dimmer boards are showing 4 wires: an on/off, a +12v, a PWM, and a GND. How do I wire these into the goby? I'm pretty sure I can just go directly to the "light 1" just since this is pwm and not analog, but not sure which wire to put where.

Also, should I put the power cords in the adj or is it okay to just dim to 0 and leave them powered on?

@Michael Lane i was wondering what if you start a dedicated thread on the HATs :-) , if you have not already. They are getting popular and its worth consolidating these discussions.

 

[Ranjib]

After witnessing 2 snails "resting" on a float for a float switch - I agree with the optical recommendation.

Hmm.. i never thought of these scenarios. I run a biocube(29G) or pico tanks and have the float sensors mounted on the back chamber. None of my snails ever crossed into the back chamber.

 

[burningbaal]

@Michael Lane i was wondering what if you start a dedicated thread on the HATs :) , if you have not already. They are getting popular and its worth consolidating these discussions.

Not a bad plan. Fwiw, he helped by pm and I'm now on the waitlist to get a lighting adapter from his tindie store.

 

[marekd1]

After witnessing 2 snails "resting" on a float for a float switch - I agree with the optical recommendation.

I also use these, nice thing about these they do not have to sit in the water. You can adjust sensitivity, there is a little push button under the QC sticker. i have them glued on the outside of the sump

"12-24V Non-contact Tank Liquid Water Level Detect Sensor Switch "

 

[Ranjib]

What's the cheapest relay to grab these days? The docs show an SRP8, which seems to be either no longer available or pretty schpensy. This guy looks decent:

JBtek 8 Channel DC 5V Relay Module

I've got one of these coming already, it's what I use for my ATO pump right now:

uxcell IEC255 DC 12V Coil 8Pin DPDT Electromagnetic Power Relay w Socket Base

I think I can just connect it to IO21 and GND? Or do I need to supply 12v to the goby hat as well to pass it through?

I'll use that for the moment, but would like something with more outlets.

What's interesting is that building it myself, with a cheap 8-channel 5v relay, the jumper wires, a 4-gang junction box, 4 outlets, the 4-gang outlet cover and the romex wire to wire it all up comes to ~$55. It seems like there might be a pre-built option for around that price, or within $10-15. The Kasa HS300 is only $20 more, but of course it's only 6 outlets, not 8.

Kasa300 is also a surge protector, has current monitoring and provides 5V 2.5A usb output that you can use to power a pi directly.

 

[Ranjib]

I also use these, nice thing about these they do not have to sit in the water. You can adjust sensitivity, there is a little push button under the QC sticker. i have them glued on the outside of the sump

"12-24V Non-contact Tank Liquid Water Level Detect Sensor Switch "

Interesting. Thank you for sharing. I'll check them out. I am thinking of working on leak detection in 4.0.

 

[marekd1]

I'm going to go ahead and put a doser together using those controllers. Thanks for the idea.

Do you know if I'd need to use all 3 pins if I just wanted to control speed in one direction? I'd like to run my pumps forward at 50% or so, but I don't care about reverse.

One more note 50% will not work with DC motors especially under load when they have to rotate the rollers.
70% would be minimum. Play with time interval instead. I am able to dose with as low as 0.2 sec interval at 80%

 

[Ranjib]

Here is my wiring (GF was home and took a picture for me). The terminals go to the dosing pumps and the barrel connection in bottom left goes to the LED strip. 12V input on the right barrel to the bottom rails and the LM2596 which outputs 5.05V to the top rail. The L293D on the left is offset one space to the right. Everything seems to match from what I see...

edit: may have hooked PCA to the wrong voltage input. Not sure why I was able to see the address and communicate with it if that power isn’t used for anything besides servo power

This looks fairly elaborate build :-). Do you have a dedicated thread? If not, please create one. This thread moves so fast , i have hard time keeping context of different builds.

 

[marekd1]

Interesting. Thank you for sharing. I'll check them out. I am thinking of working on leak detection in 4.0.

these are capacitive sensors so not sure if they will detect water on the floor. You would need conductive sensors for water leak detection. This is why we need more I/O lines :)

 

[Ranjib]

Basic questions..... - is there a specific reason why the build tutorials use that stereo jack for the temp sensors? Rather than risk me forgetting about not being able to connect/disconnect temp sensors I'm thinking of going with a 3 prong connector.

And - I'm going to assume I'm fine extending the wires of the temp sensors without too much trouble?

I'll give some context. 3.5 mm audio jacks are cheap, readily available, provides 3 cores and are easy to solder. Thats the only reason i prescribe them across the board. There are no other reasons. For temperature sensor in particular, they are not the best since they short when we plug/unplug the sensor. But other options are costlier (xlr, min DINs, you name it, i tried it), and often time harder to solder. And i dont plug/unplug temp sensor that often. Feel free to try out other connectors if your find them more suitable

 

[Ranjib]

these are capacitive sensors so not sure if they will detect water on the floor. You would need conductive sensors for water leak detection

Ah.. gotcha..

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

This looks fairly elaborate build :). Do you have a dedicated thread? If not, please create one. This thread moves so fast , i have hard time keeping context of different builds.

It’s my third actually and I finally got it working last night! Flexible wire is not my friend, kept snapping wires. It’s purely dedicated to dosing and lighting. I will get around to doing a build thread but mainly used your instructions with a few minor changes.

 

[Schreiber]

It's a work in progress, but I've got the Github page for Leviathan mostly populated. Got the schematic & pcb layout on there, as well as the draft of my documentation. I'm 42 pages in on that, with plenty to go.

GitHub - Schreiberito/Leviathan: Aquarium Automation Circuit Board

Aquarium Automation Circuit Board. Contribute to Schreiberito/Leviathan development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

 

[marekd1]

I'll give some context. 3.5 mm audio jacks are cheap, readily available, provides 3 cores and are easy to solder. Thats the only reason i prescribe them across the board. There are no other reasons. For temperature sensor in particular, they are not the best since they short when we plug/unplug the sensor. But other options are costlier (xlr, min DINs, you name it, i tried it), and often time harder to solder. And i dont plug/unplug temp sensor that often. Feel free to try out other connectors if your find them more suitable

Agree with the intent behind it but chap is not allays a good way to go. You will save 5 cents on the connector and blow $15 device. BTW the 4 PIN example you can get it for $10 for set of 10. easier to solder as you are soldering to wires. Use heat shrink tubing to seal the connection and you are all set to go. Just more options to explore.