b4tn
Valuable Member
Actually I2C can support multiple device. But... I’m pretty sure reefpi has to have a driver associated with it but I could be wrong. Try searching this thread for 0-10 volt converters. Someone has done it.
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
- Start date
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- controller raspberry-pi
- Tagged users Ranjib
FuzzeWuzze
Community Member
Seems like what i need is basically this circuit posted by @robsworld78 using the LM358D? I'd just hardwire it to the config i'd want for 10V out, put 3.3V PWM from the RPI in and get 0-10V analog out to feed into my gyre controller?
www.reef2reef.com
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
Hi, so I wanted to introduce myself to everyone, I’m Rob and I love aquarium controllers. :) About 5 years ago I started building a controller of my own Robo-Tank, it’s pretty cool but expensive for a few reasons, limited web access and the display ran on an Arduino so it was slow to load like...
www.reef2reef.com
NeonRabbit221B
2500 Club Member
Had anyone had an issue with frying optical sensors? I swear I have checked my wiring several times and check continuity between connectors but cant get it to work... Do these short out and break easily?
OP
OP
Not frying, but I experienced them to be less reliable compared to floatswitch.
Mandelstam
Well-Known Member
I have a timer issue with a HS-100 smart plug (Kasa).
It works fine manually switching it on and off. But when I set up a timer (turn on for 15 seconds every 4th hour) it does what it's supposed to for the 15 seconds but then gets stuck switching the plug on for like a 1/10 second every second.
I'm not sure if it's a Reef-Pi thing or not but it feels like it. Anyone had similar issues?
Here's the timer I set up (currently disabled)
@Ranjib, is this something you have seen before?
For a driver I used the HS110, not HS103. Could this be it?
OP
OP
* in cron job stands for every. Since you have set that for minute/hour,,, reef-pi is switching every second with your spec. change the minute and second to 1.
Mandelstam
Well-Known Member
Thank you Ranjib! <3
speedstar
Well-Known Member
Any chance anyone has a reef-pi image? I am not infront of my system away from home. My wife just told me the tank lights did not come on today. It appears the memory card has failed, starts to boot and then crashes. There is no way I will be able to walk her through a normal installation, but possibly image a card. Tank temp is down to 72, I had her move the heater over but I would really like to get this controller back running for ATO, lights etc. Thanks for direction
OP
OP
Your reef-pi database is what you need to restore your reef-pi installation. github has reef-pi packages, but those are for fresh install only. I doubt other's reef-pi image will work for you, since they have specifics like temperature sensor , pin number etc that will be different from setup to setup. It is better to prepare for manual control (return, heater ) and do periodic top off till you are back.
in 4.0 release will have export/import feature to make things like this easier to deal with. But you still have to use those and prepare a backup sd card (basically a card with everything install and configured, including wifi etc) ready to go for dealing with such cases.
Mikeneedsahobby
Well-Known Member
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first you need to disable the probe.
Edit ph.
disable probe.
save
Calibrate
Rinse probe in rodi
Place in 7 calibration fluid
Wait for readings to stabilize
Set cal value to 7
Push run
Rinse probe
Put in 10 calibration fluid
Set cal value to 10
Run
Edit ph
Enable probe
Save
Rinse probe and check both 7 and 10 and make sure it’s close.
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
I have ML's board and Rob's from RoboTank. Both work great.
Last edited:
I think you've done an amazing job, based on version number, 3.5 seems to be stable so maybe a good point to start 4.0. The minor issues are known and can be worked around so no need for a quick update, enjoy the holiday or play in the code.
Seems like what i need is basically this circuit posted by @robsworld78 using the LM358D? I'd just hardwire it to the config i'd want for 10V out, put 3.3V PWM from the RPI in and get 0-10V analog out to feed into my gyre controller?
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
Hi, so I wanted to introduce myself to everyone, I’m Rob and I love aquarium controllers. :) About 5 years ago I started building a controller of my own Robo-Tank, it’s pretty cool but expensive for a few reasons, limited web access and the display ran on an Arduino so it was slow to load like...
Yeah that circuit will put out a 0-10v analog signal so just need a few components.
I wouldn't mention it but as you can't find I do have some.
Glad it's working out and BTW it's Rob but hey 2 out 3 letters isn't that bad.
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
I think you've done an amazing job, based on version number, 3.5 seems to be stable so maybe a good point to start 4.0. The minor issues are known and can be worked around so no need for a quick update, enjoy the holiday or play in the code.
Yeah that circuit will put out a 0-10v analog signal so just need a few components.
I wouldn't mention it but as you can't find I do have some.
Glad it's working out and BTW it's Rob but hey 2 out 3 letters isn't that bad.
Hahaha yeah, fat fingers got me on the phone. Edited.
The EZO is available direct. Not on Amazon. I am looking at it as we speak and about to order one.
Getting started with my build, already tested and working. Doing power relays today and waiting on PH board to get here. Looking forward to getting it all together.
b4tn
Valuable Member
Does anyone know the positives and negative going with the ezo board vs one of the prebuilt ones?
NeonRabbit221B
2500 Club Member
ezo is a minimum of board and carrier board which is atleast $55. With the pre-built ones you support a follow member and don't have to deal with the ezo crapping out on you after a few months.
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