SpideyBry's 30g Shallow Reef
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spideybry
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I am following both of your builds now
and following you on IG as well.
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spideybry
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Update - seems the tank is doing it's job and becoming a nitrate factory lol. I tested yesterday with a Red Sea test kit and was a bit surprised - No3 was around 20ppm or higher. Granted, I wasn't able to tell with any certainty that was the number because light really matters when reading the test kit. Either way, I'd rather err on the side of caution and start planning for when the nitrates really can become a problem
Really can't stand trying to decipher colors with test kits - Hanna needs to hurry up with those testers lol.
To deal with the current issue, did quick 5gal (12.5%) water change and tested again with two test kits. Many more water changes to come.
The next steps in the tank are to get something installed for nitrate reduction. I ordered a 3 reactor kit for nanos that will include a cheato reactor, a bio media reactor, and another small reactor for media of my choice.
This is how they will look when I get them installed -
I am leaning toward NPX Biopellets, I hear good things about it for what it does. The planned outlet is going to be right next to the protein skimmer intake.
Since the skimmer is working well and pulling some gunk, might as well put it to work
Here are the reactors I ordered.
Anyone's feed back on running bio rectors on smaller tanks is appreciated.
Really can't stand trying to decipher colors with test kits - Hanna needs to hurry up with those testers lol.
To deal with the current issue, did quick 5gal (12.5%) water change and tested again with two test kits. Many more water changes to come.
The next steps in the tank are to get something installed for nitrate reduction. I ordered a 3 reactor kit for nanos that will include a cheato reactor, a bio media reactor, and another small reactor for media of my choice.
This is how they will look when I get them installed -
I am leaning toward NPX Biopellets, I hear good things about it for what it does. The planned outlet is going to be right next to the protein skimmer intake.
Since the skimmer is working well and pulling some gunk, might as well put it to work
Here are the reactors I ordered.
Anyone's feed back on running bio rectors on smaller tanks is appreciated.
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spideybry
Active Member
So it is time for an update.
Unfortunately I find myself fighting back dinos. What I initially thought was cyano, turned out to be dinos I presume. I would go through the entire process of getting a microscope and trying to confirm, but at this point I am just going to go the route of the blanket method and do everything I can to fix things.
Here are some horrible photos (silver lining is that I am getting coralline growth):
Sad FTS atm..
After recently testing, I found my No3 to be down near 0 and my Po4 around .1 ish.
First course of action for me:
On the flip side, I do have some good news. There is a happy new addition to the tank - a mystery wrasse along with a bunch of new frags. Here are the "nice photos".
Also I do have some signs of growth, some zoas are popping off new heads and my duncan coral is showing considerable growth.
This was the duncan on 9/20:
The duncan today (9/27):
Currently I am reeling and trying to absorb all the info I can to help fight the dinos, so any info is appreciated.
Oh, as a side note, I'll have to thank Tropic Marin USA for helping me out.
When I initially went to setup this tank, I went to my LFS and grabbed a 200g sack of what I thought was Tropic Marin Classic. After setting up the tank and getting everything situated, I noticed a couple weeks ago that I was chasing some numbers in terms of Alk/Calc/Mag. I decided to do a bit of research and found that my salt sack was actually Tropic Marin ZOO Mix... I do some research and can't find anything in writing online that breaks down the concentrations of this specific mix so I called up Tropic Marin USA. Turns out this specific mix was not to be sold for hobbyists to use (I guess if the system was large enough it'd be okay), and that this mix contains mag chips which - if used in a smaller mixing quantity - can be inconsistent.
So, PSA - make sure you get the right salt. Tropic Marin is thankfully helping me out and getting me a new bucket.
Unfortunately I find myself fighting back dinos. What I initially thought was cyano, turned out to be dinos I presume. I would go through the entire process of getting a microscope and trying to confirm, but at this point I am just going to go the route of the blanket method and do everything I can to fix things.
Here are some horrible photos (silver lining is that I am getting coralline growth):
Sad FTS atm..
After recently testing, I found my No3 to be down near 0 and my Po4 around .1 ish.
First course of action for me:
- Raise No3 a bit to at least 5ppm (I was using Purigen in preparation for a biopellet reactor so I am removing Purigen)
- Siphoning out all that I can daily
- Dip zoa frags that are covered in dinos and showing signs of being stressed
- Dosing Microbacter 7 + Vibrant
- Look into potentially H202 dosing
- Get carbon into a reactor
- Lower light intensity
On the flip side, I do have some good news. There is a happy new addition to the tank - a mystery wrasse along with a bunch of new frags. Here are the "nice photos".
Also I do have some signs of growth, some zoas are popping off new heads and my duncan coral is showing considerable growth.
This was the duncan on 9/20:
The duncan today (9/27):
Currently I am reeling and trying to absorb all the info I can to help fight the dinos, so any info is appreciated.
Oh, as a side note, I'll have to thank Tropic Marin USA for helping me out.
When I initially went to setup this tank, I went to my LFS and grabbed a 200g sack of what I thought was Tropic Marin Classic. After setting up the tank and getting everything situated, I noticed a couple weeks ago that I was chasing some numbers in terms of Alk/Calc/Mag. I decided to do a bit of research and found that my salt sack was actually Tropic Marin ZOO Mix... I do some research and can't find anything in writing online that breaks down the concentrations of this specific mix so I called up Tropic Marin USA. Turns out this specific mix was not to be sold for hobbyists to use (I guess if the system was large enough it'd be okay), and that this mix contains mag chips which - if used in a smaller mixing quantity - can be inconsistent.
So, PSA - make sure you get the right salt. Tropic Marin is thankfully helping me out and getting me a new bucket.
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spideybry
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Next update: Still fighting
I've since added a couple of things that I am doing to help fight off the dinos.
Currently, my no3 is very low - close to 0 (undetectable in my red sea kit) and Po4 is around .07.
That being said, I've decided to try dosing NeoNitro from Brightwell. I've also added a chaeto reactor to see if it can outcompete the dinos.
The things I am currently doing to help fight off the dinos:
Duncan Coral Progression Shot:
Annoying trying to read pink on this kit:
Dirty Unorganized Sump Pic:
Chaeto Reactor Growth Progression:
If anyone can suggest anything else to help fight dinos, please chime in - I think last resort is going to be a blackout for 3 days. Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but who knows smh.
I've since added a couple of things that I am doing to help fight off the dinos.
Currently, my no3 is very low - close to 0 (undetectable in my red sea kit) and Po4 is around .07.
That being said, I've decided to try dosing NeoNitro from Brightwell. I've also added a chaeto reactor to see if it can outcompete the dinos.
The things I am currently doing to help fight off the dinos:
- Trying to raise No3 to at least 5ppm (using NeoNitro and feeding a lot)
- Siphoning out all that I can daily into a filter sock and changing the filter sock daily
- Cleaning off zoa frags with a turkey baster that are covered in dinos and showing signs of being stressed
- Dosing Microbacter 7 (stopped dosing Vibrant since I don't want to hurt my chaeto.
- Starting dosing H202 3%, 4ml a day (yesterday 10/10/2020)
- Running carbon reactor
- Lower light intensity
- Raise temperature to 80°
- Added a UV sterilizer
Duncan Coral Progression Shot:
Annoying trying to read pink on this kit:
Dirty Unorganized Sump Pic:
Chaeto Reactor Growth Progression:
If anyone can suggest anything else to help fight dinos, please chime in - I think last resort is going to be a blackout for 3 days. Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but who knows smh.
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spideybry
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Next update: things are going well (dinos are "gone") - now hair algae
As of right now, the dinos have receded - something I am ecstatic about. I had to stop manual removal due to throwing my back out for a bit, but they seemed to have died off on their own a good amount. It is hard to say what helped - but I do think that the raising of nitrates and chaeto reactor were big factors (along with the UV sterilizer chugging away), I literally threw everything at the wall and hoped something stuck lol.
On to the new issues - currently the tank is struggling to keep nitrates up. The dosing of NeoNitro has helped though.
To deal with the hair algae cropping up, I've got some more inverts to help boost the CUC. Currently there is a small handful of astreas (5 maybe), a couple of margaritas, and like 2 or 3 ceriths.
I've ordered 15 ceriths (probably overkill) but I like ceriths and their efficiency to get into nooks and crannies, and a court jester goby. I've also ordered GFO to mix in with my carbon in my pico reactor.
Test Results from 10/24/2020
After Dosing to Raise No3 to 3ppm on 10/25/2020 - I am still tweaking what my actual water volume is (I think it is 35g at the point)
FTS (Full of Hair Algae) - 10/25/2020
Progression Shot of Chaeto Reactor
Half of the Chaeto Being Removed
Dino Comparison
Curious Mystery Wrasse
Duncan Coral Progression Shot
I Keep Buying Zoas (I might just make this a zoa tank)
Next Steps:
So, considering I am fighting off algae at the moment (and I know it is part of the ugly stages of a tank) - I am trying to wrap my head around the whole dosing of nitrates. When I was in the hobby before, the whole idea of keeping "Nitrates at 0" was still the prevailing theory and one to shoot for. Now, with this shift in mindset, I am trying to understand this relationship of No3 and Po4 and how to effectively control them to stay within range.
Many reefers out there now are dosing nitrates and phosphates to keep their tanks in range - so I am wondering if GFO is my friend at this point. Any input on this is appreciated. Currently my focus is to try to control the algae.
As of right now, the dinos have receded - something I am ecstatic about. I had to stop manual removal due to throwing my back out for a bit, but they seemed to have died off on their own a good amount. It is hard to say what helped - but I do think that the raising of nitrates and chaeto reactor were big factors (along with the UV sterilizer chugging away), I literally threw everything at the wall and hoped something stuck lol.
On to the new issues - currently the tank is struggling to keep nitrates up. The dosing of NeoNitro has helped though.
To deal with the hair algae cropping up, I've got some more inverts to help boost the CUC. Currently there is a small handful of astreas (5 maybe), a couple of margaritas, and like 2 or 3 ceriths.
I've ordered 15 ceriths (probably overkill) but I like ceriths and their efficiency to get into nooks and crannies, and a court jester goby. I've also ordered GFO to mix in with my carbon in my pico reactor.
Test Results from 10/24/2020
After Dosing to Raise No3 to 3ppm on 10/25/2020 - I am still tweaking what my actual water volume is (I think it is 35g at the point)
FTS (Full of Hair Algae) - 10/25/2020
Progression Shot of Chaeto Reactor
Half of the Chaeto Being Removed
Dino Comparison
Curious Mystery Wrasse
Duncan Coral Progression Shot
I Keep Buying Zoas (I might just make this a zoa tank)
Next Steps:
So, considering I am fighting off algae at the moment (and I know it is part of the ugly stages of a tank) - I am trying to wrap my head around the whole dosing of nitrates. When I was in the hobby before, the whole idea of keeping "Nitrates at 0" was still the prevailing theory and one to shoot for. Now, with this shift in mindset, I am trying to understand this relationship of No3 and Po4 and how to effectively control them to stay within range.
Many reefers out there now are dosing nitrates and phosphates to keep their tanks in range - so I am wondering if GFO is my friend at this point. Any input on this is appreciated. Currently my focus is to try to control the algae.
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spideybry
Active Member
Next update: Hair algae almost gone, some cyano left
Things are going pretty well. The tank is leveling out in terms of No3 and po4, hovering around 4ppm and .5ppm ish. I haven't had to dose much aside from bringing up the No3. I had to bring it up
The only remnant issues are some lingering hair algae that seems pretty confined and dying back thankfully.
Things I am adding: some macro algae and more coral. I've got some sargassumm, codium, c. prolifera, botryocladia, and bryothamnion on the way.
FTS from 11/12/2020
Side Shot
New Torch
Rainsford Gobi
Recent Test
Things are going pretty well. The tank is leveling out in terms of No3 and po4, hovering around 4ppm and .5ppm ish. I haven't had to dose much aside from bringing up the No3. I had to bring it up
The only remnant issues are some lingering hair algae that seems pretty confined and dying back thankfully.
Things I am adding: some macro algae and more coral. I've got some sargassumm, codium, c. prolifera, botryocladia, and bryothamnion on the way.
FTS from 11/12/2020
Side Shot
New Torch
Rainsford Gobi
Recent Test
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Great photos! One of the coolest nanos out there right now with your husbandry habits IMO. Your pics are amazing and my favorite are the progression pics. Great job, keep up with the updates, the growth in such a short time is awesome!
Also - completely agree with you on the nitrates, tough to get pink! Are you happy with the NeoNitro dosing? And do you anticipate doing this long term (is it sustainable?)
Also - completely agree with you on the nitrates, tough to get pink! Are you happy with the NeoNitro dosing? And do you anticipate doing this long term (is it sustainable?)
OP
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spideybry
Active Member
Thank you, I appreciate it
. Progression shots are always a great way to document how a reef is doing, helps keep you sane sometimes - especially since it is easy to not notice growth day to day.So far, NeoNitro has been a godsend for me up till now. The bioload/biodiversity in the tank is not that high enough in my opinion to handle extreme feedings. Eventually, my long term goal is the shift to feeding enough to keep a steady line in my No3 and Po4. That being said, I do plan on adding a few more macro algae to the tank - which will probably require me to up my dosing of NeoNitro and NeoPhos (maybe ChaetoGro eventually).
Duncan Progression
Coralline Algae Progression
Smite
2500 Club Member
Great documentation and I love the layout of your reef. That rock work is spot on. I’ll be tagging along.
In my experience bryopsis or gha always seem to follow a successful Dino treatment. Congrats on the W
In my experience bryopsis or gha always seem to follow a successful Dino treatment. Congrats on the W
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spideybry
Active Member
The light I currently have came with the full setup I bought used. I figured I would give it a shot and see how it did.
I've gone through a lot of testing on it PAR wise and the light is doing the job.
I actually started this thread linked below with all the specs of the light and took PAR readings if you want a closer look at the light- https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/popbloom-turing75-any-one-have-input-suggestions.752722/
So far, I am "happy" with it - the light initially was found on this link (which now is broken) lol -
万全云电商 - 国内最专业的跨境电商解决方案
That being said, if I had a better light (better LED layout) with more capabilities and more of a mobile control, I'd be happier with that.
The spread on the light is EXTREMLY narrow. The positioning of the LEDs that you can see in the link above in some photos also causes some weird banding effects since all the white LEDs are on the back of the light leading the back of your tank to look whiter.
I found the light linked below just now - for $200USD it aint bad and I do like that you can link them up.
DSunY Dimmable LED Aquarium Light Full Spectrum for 36"/90cm Reef Coral Tank | eBay
DSunY Led Aquarium Light Marine Aquarium Lamp Led for Aquarium Fish Tank Light. For 24’’ Marine Reef Tank. For 36’’ Marine Reef Tank. For 48’’ Marine Reef Tank. For 60’’ Marine Reef Tank. PopBloom Marine Led Aquarium Light Full Spectrum for 36" 3' Reef Coral Fish Tank.
www.ebay.com
There is someone else in the thread I linked that also has the lights on his tank. Might want to post in that thread and quote him to see an update.
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spideybry
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Update 11/28/2020 - Got an Anemone
I initially told myself I wouldn't get another anemone. The Last time I did, I went off the deep and got into propagating them. It's almost like anything you put in a reef tank is at the whim of the anemone if it feels like moving around and such.
That being said, I fell in love with this nem at my LFS and had to get it. I've already been trying to fight with it so it stays on the front side of the tank, so far it has a really good anchor and has had amazing tips.
Here are the photos:
Some Other Random Shots:
FTS 11/28/2020 (Sorry for the reflections)
Halymenia Growth Comparison:
I also think I have a pretty dialed in dosing regimen as of right now. The cyanobacteria I was fighting against melted away when I finally shifted to all frozen foods. I've yet to test No3 or Po4 this week, but I will be testing them soon.
Daily Dosing Regimen:
6ml - Tropic Marin All for Reef
8ml - Red Sea Reef AB+
10ml - OceanMagik Phytoplankton
1sq in - LRS Reef Frenzy Nano
Twice Weekly Dosing Regimen:
10ml - Brightwell ChaetoGro
Weekly Dosing Regimen on an as Needed Basis:
Brightwell NeoPhos
Brightwell NeoNitro
Brightwell Microbacter 7
Filtration in the tank at the moment:
Filter Sock 200 Micron (changed out weekly)
Sc Aquariums SCA-301 Skimmer Running Dry
SeaChem Matrix Carbon
Chaeto Reactor
Dr. Tims Waste Away Gel
I initially told myself I wouldn't get another anemone. The Last time I did, I went off the deep and got into propagating them. It's almost like anything you put in a reef tank is at the whim of the anemone if it feels like moving around and such.
That being said, I fell in love with this nem at my LFS and had to get it. I've already been trying to fight with it so it stays on the front side of the tank, so far it has a really good anchor and has had amazing tips.
Here are the photos:
Some Other Random Shots:
FTS 11/28/2020 (Sorry for the reflections)
Halymenia Growth Comparison:
I also think I have a pretty dialed in dosing regimen as of right now. The cyanobacteria I was fighting against melted away when I finally shifted to all frozen foods. I've yet to test No3 or Po4 this week, but I will be testing them soon.
Daily Dosing Regimen:
6ml - Tropic Marin All for Reef
8ml - Red Sea Reef AB+
10ml - OceanMagik Phytoplankton
1sq in - LRS Reef Frenzy Nano
Twice Weekly Dosing Regimen:
10ml - Brightwell ChaetoGro
Weekly Dosing Regimen on an as Needed Basis:
Brightwell NeoPhos
Brightwell NeoNitro
Brightwell Microbacter 7
Filtration in the tank at the moment:
Filter Sock 200 Micron (changed out weekly)
Sc Aquariums SCA-301 Skimmer Running Dry
SeaChem Matrix Carbon
Chaeto Reactor
Dr. Tims Waste Away Gel
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I’m loving this tank! Great photos as well.
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spideybry
Active Member
Thanks
Btw, how is your tank coming along?
It’s not, sadly. Check my thread for a sad update. Still dryThanks
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spideybry
Active Member
I read, sorry to hear and I hope things turn around soon for you.
Thank you
Things are going well so far at least.
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spideybry
Active Member
Update 12/8/2020 - Getting a Frag Tank
After debating a bit, I decided to get a frag tank. One of the things I really enjoyed about the hobby was culturing corals/anemones, testing out what worked with them, and enjoying watching them grow.
The plan as of right now, is to set up another tank right next to my reef and tie it into one big system using the same sump. So, I've decided to go with a Innovative Marin 20g Nuvo AIO with an APS stand and have it sit at the exact same height as my current tank.
The idea here is that the 20g tank is the same in length and height, that it won't look horrible being right next to my current tank.
Excuse the crude photoshop lol, just wanted to envision what it could look like -
Rough outline of the measurements/layout -
There are a few hurdles to get over before this is all coming together though.
I am picking up a used Innovative Marine 20g Nuvo and I am torn on how to handle the AIO compartment. There are a few potential paths here. Since all the panes on this tank are non-tempered, I can drill.
The things still up in the air:
After debating a bit, I decided to get a frag tank. One of the things I really enjoyed about the hobby was culturing corals/anemones, testing out what worked with them, and enjoying watching them grow.
The plan as of right now, is to set up another tank right next to my reef and tie it into one big system using the same sump. So, I've decided to go with a Innovative Marin 20g Nuvo AIO with an APS stand and have it sit at the exact same height as my current tank.
The idea here is that the 20g tank is the same in length and height, that it won't look horrible being right next to my current tank.
Excuse the crude photoshop lol, just wanted to envision what it could look like -
Rough outline of the measurements/layout -
There are a few hurdles to get over before this is all coming together though.
I am picking up a used Innovative Marine 20g Nuvo and I am torn on how to handle the AIO compartment. There are a few potential paths here. Since all the panes on this tank are non-tempered, I can drill.
The things still up in the air:
- Will I be using my current pump and modify the return plumbing to run it all off one pump, or run an independent pump for the new tank. Space is tight in the sump.
- Will I remove the back compartments of the AIO, or leave them in place.
- Drill the tank or use an overflow.
- Will I try to get the same lights that I currently have over my DT to avoid light shock between tanks.
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