Sump layout for 10ft display tank

[MrJReyez]

Hello fellow reefers, first time poster here after being a loyal lurker for a few years now!

I am currently preparing to upgrade from a 60-70Gallon reefer 350 (lowered to 18inch height) to a 10'x24" wide x 18" tall 200G~ tank after moving in my new house. (Photo of the sump/stand below)

I purchased the 200G tank, stand and sump used and my friend is suggesting me to shorten the sump, which is also 10' long. His reasoning is that it will be easier to maintain if i ever need to get the sump out as i cannot take out the sump without moving the stand sideways in my basement - which would be too heavy to do with a tank on the top.

I am planning on having a refugium and maybe a frag tank in one of the sump section below (and maybe a -prison- for my sixline). Also, i would not need the stand as shelving as i got some hidden shelving in a fake barn door on the side of the tank and i can hide my controllers on a panel in the hot water tank room on the other side.

What is y'all's opinion on that? Do you think it is worth it to modify the sump for that eventuality?

Really looking forward to hear from y'all, who probably got more to forget than i can ever learn!

Cheers!

 

[Rocks reef]

WOW!! Personally, I would keep the big sump and use it as you have mentioned. That will give you so many options for equipment, refugium, frag tank... You could separate one end for your ATO...

 

[MrJReyez]

WOW!! Personally, I would keep the big sump and use it as you have mentioned. That will give you so many options for equipment, refugium, frag tank... You could separate one end for your ATO...

Thank you for your input!

For the ATO, i plan on getting it directly from the RODI filter with a float valve and a hydros solenoid.
Hopefully it'll all work out~

 

[BryanM]

Is the sump glass or acrylic?

I would leak test it for quite some time if it is not easily removable as it.... In the end I doubt there would be any problems, but finding out in 2-3 years and having to tear it all apart? yikes.

 

[BryanM]

Is the sump glass or acrylic?

I would leak test it for quite some time if it is not easily removable as it.... In the end I doubt there would be any problems, but finding out in 2-3 years and having to tear it all apart? yikes.

 

[MrJReyez]

Is the sump glass or acrylic?

I would leak test it for quite some time if it is not easily removable as it.... In the end I doubt there would be any problems, but finding out in 2-3 years and having to tear it all apart? yikes.

It is glass! So is the display.

That seems like a wise thing to do. How would you suggest testing that? Is there any other way other than filling it up with water and wait and see?

Cheers!

 

[BryanM]

It is glass! So is the display.

That seems like a wise thing to do. How would you suggest testing that? Is there any other way other than filling it up with water and wait and see?

Cheers!

Thats it, fill it with water and monitor for a week or two. If you already have rodi, I'd probably fill it with RODI, you can use it to make the salt water in the tank if you want.

 

[MrJReyez]

Thats it, fill it with water and monitor for a week or two. If you already have rodi, I'd probably fill it with RODI, you can use it to make the salt water in the tank if you want.

Roger that! Will do. Thank you for the recommendation!

 

[Puggz]

Hello fellow Canadian! I agree with every idea above - i would cut the sump in half if it was plastic but not the glass. Give the seams/silicone a very close look with a flashlight or really bright headlamp. If you see any peeling or laminations, you may want to just go ahead and repair them now. Nice thing about a sump is the bulkheads will add strength to something this long. Let us know how it goes!

 

[Kooma]

Thank you for your input!

For the ATO, i plan on getting it directly from the RODI filter with a float valve and a hydros solenoid.
Hopefully it'll all work out~

This will give you TDS creep. I wouldn’t advise, a failure of the float will also nuke your tank and flood your house.