THE TX REEF ROOM

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As with our health as humans, nutrition is key to our reef tanks! To that end, I took the plunge and purchased a few Plank feeders from @AVAST Marine to ensure my Reef Room systems receive the best nutrition they can, via an automated system to remove the laziness factor.


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Felt energetic and made some progress after work today. The first of 2 frames that will be used to make my stand has been constructed. I used stainless steel screws and gorilla wood glue to ensure the 2x4 horizontal supports in the dados are as secure as possible to the 2x6 vertical supports. I included a photo of the stand leaned upright so you can get an idea of the impressive scale - it will house 3 stacked lowboys on the wider side, and smaller tanks on the other, hence the asymmetry.
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Finished the second supporting rack for the stand today, I should be able to sand it, bring it inside then add the short front to back horizontal supports tomorrow.

I also added metal trim strips to the floor transitions in the room to give the tile that professional touch.


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Stand supports are properly sanded and stored out of the elements. I’m hoping this week I’ll have time to get it upright and into the Reef Room before next weekend.


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Stand is framed! I used stainless steel screws for the construction. I’m going to check if it can be carried into the Reef Room in one piece before I commit to wood glue on the front-to-back braces. Once that’s decided, I’m going to paint it with the same gray satin paint I used for the trim in the room, and also add plywood so that all my tanks have flat and sturdy supports. I think I also have to brainstorm the best way to secure this stand to the framing of the room for extra stability.


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UncommonSense

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I used stainless steel screws for the construction
Very nice!

I’m going to check if it can be carried into the Reef Room in one piece before I commit to wood glue on the front-to-back braces.
What about a furniture moving dolly under each end? One person one each end, and roll the assembly into place!

I also have to brainstorm the best way to secure this stand to the framing of the room for extra stability.
Hmm… do you know if the wall in question is framed in 2x4, or 2x6?
 
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I used stainless steel screws for the construction

Thank you for the feedback!

On moving the stand, I’m not worried about the weight, but the size. I’m unsure if I’m able to maneuver it into the room when it is in one piece - that’s what I have to test before I decide to glue now or later.

I’m actually not sure on the room framing, it is going to be on an exterior wall though.
 
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I realize my updates have been severely lacking in fish/coral content, so:

The clownfish and nem pond is going strong! The nem split, and I sold one for a fair price to a local hobbyist on this forum. I also cleaned the pond recently, I have to use a soft sponge to avoid scarping the white paint.

The nem in my frag tank has also split!


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Painting the stand today. I’m going to leave the top edge of the 2x4 horizontal lumber unpainted so that the wood glue can adhere best as possible when I add the 1” plywood shelves.


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Two things to celebrate today:

1. My order from Kessil arrived - yay! Thanks Kessil!
2. The stand I built DOES in fact fit through the door, just had to take it apart first. I’ll re-assemble, add wood glue, and add rubber padding to the bottom edge of the stand for superior leveling and stability. I’ll secure the neoprene rubber footing with construction adhesive.
watch


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Yesterday I re-assembled the stand and filled some voids with wood filler. I also added heavy duty neoprene rubber to the bottom of the stand for leveling and stability. This was a tedious process because the neoprene comes in rolls meaning it wants to flex into a curve. I used construction adhesive, tape and screws. I’ll remove the tape and screws before flipping it back over and seeing how well the leveling effect works out.
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I added shelves to the main Reef Room stand today. I’ll need to hit it with some final touch up paint and a few stainless steel L brackets for support, and then the stand is done. Next, I’m going to add mounting points to hang lights on each level.

 
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I am getting sick of my urchin and turbo snails knocking over my big frags, so I bought a frag rack that has silicone locking mechanisms on each frag slot. If it works well, I’ll buy more. Here’s the link: https://amzn.to/49eVo36
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I finally made a decision on the sump that will connect all three 50 gallon low boy tanks. I purchased a 24x24x18 inch polyethylene open top tank ( https://www.ntotank.com/41gallon-chemtainer-white-polyethylene-rectangular-opentop-tank-x6982167-b ), and I will baffle it myself with 4 chambers. Details to follow in that. Thank you @UncommonSense for all the time you spent brainstorming a solution with me, I was really stuck!


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I also added stainless steel L brackets to the stand for extra support:


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UncommonSense

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Thank you @UncommonSense for all the time you spent brainstorming a solution with me, I was really stuck!
Of course! I’m always happy to help!

Speaking of such things, I did a bit of digging on plumbing sizes… based off these two flow charts (which roughly represent full siphon drain flow vs. open pipe w/air drain flow… not completely accurate, but close enough for references sake):

Open drain:
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Full siphon:
IMG_0040.png



It looks like you’ll be in a pretty good spot with 1.5” main drain stack (open drain), and 3/4” branches at full siphon! (Assuming 400-450gph max return flow per-tank, ~10-11 turnovers/hr)

So, your drain stack reducing wyes could look something like this:




Edit:

— in hindsight, the above proposed design will work better on the emergency drain plumbing…

— specifically, because full siphon drains like to discharge underwater to maintain a siphon…

— I propose using a literal P-trap, or pipe fitting analogue thereof immediately after each tank’s primary drain gate valve, before it enters the drain stack! This functionally submerges each of the siphon drains post-valve, before they each enter the large air-filled stack!
 
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My low tech aiptasia farm (a very minor component of the Reef Room) is doing well. I decided to try running it with no light to avoid algae. So far so good.


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