U V Sterilizer
- Thread starter KDLOV
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Pentair is the only manufacture that I'm aware of that actually did testing on their units. Aqua UV is another popular choice, likely due to the integrated wiper on some models. Though I recall past models had a short dwell time due to the inlet and outlet being closer relative to the bulb.
Mikeltee
Valuable Member
The only place a UV sterilizer is beneficial is in a hospital and quarantine tank. Do not add this to your display. It will kill beneficial bacteria that is crucial to the balance of your ecosystem. Without it, you are just asking for problems.
WRONG!
Here is a write up I did on UV's, I recommend you look it over.
UV Sterilizers, which to choose and why?
Ever since BRS did a video on UV's and QT I have seen a lot more people talking about UV's. Naturally most purchase what BRS pushes / sells which is fine and dandy (I also love BRS) but I suggest everyone do their research. When selecting the right UV you need to determine what it is that you...
humble.fish
completely wrong, please do some research before giving out any information. I personally run uv on my display and found it cleared my water tremendously. I have a 200 gallon system and run the larger turbo twist I believe 36 watt. It is not super expensive and from my experience found it very helpful for my water quality. I have always ran uv despite false info floating around out there.
i strongly disagree UV's are excellent choices for reef tanks but what do i know
I disagree, most beneficial bacterial is not free floating, it’s on surfaces and in rocks.
I think you may just be reparations what you have read somewhere.
Many tanks including reef tanks run uv with great success
I’m one of them
They keep the glass cleaner
Kill parasites and algae along with dinos
So...
mcshams
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My first bit of advice would be to spend a little money and oversize your UV sterilizer. The added benefit of picking a larger capacity UV sterilizer for controlling algae AND protozoan/bacterial infectious organisms are awesome. Adding a 40W to our 90 gallon/15g sump display tank cleared our water and made our fish healthier quickly. We went with an AQUA, and have heard great things about Pentair as well.
With all due respect to the post that indicated UV use ONLY in quarantine tank, there is just a mountain of literature and science that disproves that notion conclusively, without debate. My degree in marine biology and chemistry (not going to pretend for a second that I know everything) would also collaborate that the beneficial bacteria is mostly substrate-bound and not found in high concentrations in the water column. However, protozoans in their free-floating stage are often found and sterilized if sent through the UV sterilizer.
With all due respect to the post that indicated UV use ONLY in quarantine tank, there is just a mountain of literature and science that disproves that notion conclusively, without debate. My degree in marine biology and chemistry (not going to pretend for a second that I know everything) would also collaborate that the beneficial bacteria is mostly substrate-bound and not found in high concentrations in the water column. However, protozoans in their free-floating stage are often found and sterilized if sent through the UV sterilizer.
SPR1968
No, it wasn’t expensive dear....
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I wouldn’t run a reef tank without a UVC and I can certainly recommend the DD UV-C’s I have both a 20w and 80w version for my tanks. Simple to maintain and work well.
As far as killing beneficial bacteria that is simply incorrect, provided it’s not used in the early stages of setting up a tank with ‘bacteria in a bottle’ for example when it might be free floating in the water column. A UV will only kill what goes through it and most bacteria once established is in the rockwork, not the water column.
It will also kill the free floating stages of ich provided its powerful enough and I run both my systems with enough power to kill it if it ever appeared. I think it needs to be 72,000 micro watts from memory
As far as killing beneficial bacteria that is simply incorrect, provided it’s not used in the early stages of setting up a tank with ‘bacteria in a bottle’ for example when it might be free floating in the water column. A UV will only kill what goes through it and most bacteria once established is in the rockwork, not the water column.
It will also kill the free floating stages of ich provided its powerful enough and I run both my systems with enough power to kill it if it ever appeared. I think it needs to be 72,000 micro watts from memory
hello thanks for the heads up, I have actually had this unit for probably 10 years now. how and where did it leak? There is only plastic pieces unless it leaked into the area where the bulb is. If that’s the case didn’t it short out? Like I said this is the older model and not sure if it was built different than newer ones.
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