Wall-Mounted, Closed-Loop Refugium(s)

[static416]

First, a peak at the result.

After about 30 hours over 2.5 days, that is the finished product. Now the process.

---

I have a 350 gal, two tank, shared sump system in the living room next door.

But there isn't enough room in the cabinet or the living room for all the equipment, let alone a refugium, so I ran some 3/4in flex PVC piping through the wall and ceiling to the storage room.

I started out about a year ago with two 20in X 4.5in filter housings that I repurposed as inline refugiums.

They worked pretty well, and I ran them for about 6 months, but they had a few issues:

• Mounting the lights directly onto the housings facing inward was a mistake.
  • I have to pull them off every two weeks when I clean them or harvest chaeto.
• These are upstream of my chiller
  • That has small tubing in it I don't want to clog with refugium gunk.
  • I added a small inline filter as well, but still made me nervous.
• Sometimes I use the housings for filters
  • I have to remove half the chaeto (one housing worth) to insert pleated filters or carbon media.
• The total volume is a bit lower than I'd like

As a result, I ended up pulling the chaeto out entirely and just using them as filter housings 6 months ago.

---

After removing them though, I began to notice a bit more algae in the display, and had a harder time keeping the pH up.

So I decided to build a version 2. It would expand on the previous concept, fix some issues, and keep the old housings as is, for mechanical filteration.

Started by removing everything off the wall next to the existing install, and building a wood backing to mount everything to.

This is 1/2in plywood, with 1/2in x 2in boards added as standoffs and mounting points for the housing brackets.

I primed the wood white, and covered it in a layer of 2-part white epoxy for water-proofing and because it looks smooth and shiny.

Anchored to the wall with 3in tapcon's into the concrete.

Mounted the housing caps to the board with the brackets and prepped some plumbing. The 8inch steel brackets sticking out at the top are to hang the cover on, that I also built.

This is the box I also built that will cover the entire assembly most of the time. The box will prevent the grow lights from shining into the storage room 24x7, and the mylar lining will reflect the grow lights mounted on the wall behind the clear filter housings so that the lighting comes from all angles.

The chaeto is held inside the housing on the stripped core of a pleated filter, with the filter paper cut off.

---

This is the whole setup plumbed in, without the lighting installed.

Overall, the flow is as follows:

• Input flow from the sump, through the ceiling, and then through the Iwaki booster you can see mounted on the wall.
• Flow first passes down to the lowest of the old housings, next to the door, near floor.
  • This contains a 100 micron pleated filter that I swap and clean with citric acid about once a month.
  • This filter is here both to mechanically clean the water, but also prevent debris from getting into the chiller.
• Flow goes below the four new housings, and into the chiller on the bottom left.
• Comes out of the chiller, and through the Avast media reactor
• Then it's split to run through the top and bottom pairs of refugium housings in parallel
  • This decreases the flow through each refugium, to increase contact time
  • Ideally it also allows the two pairs to grow out more evenly in parallel, which may not have happened if they were in series and the early refugiums absorbed more nutrients than the later ones. (Unlikely this would be signficant, but still).
• Then finally through the last filter housing on the top near the door, before going back to the sump.
  • This last filter housing may not have a real filter in it most of the time, and be more of a settling chamber for any chaeto debris before going back to the sump.
  • Adding a real filter here is possible (as pictured) but would block any pods from making it back to the tank. So I'll likely just have a fine mesh.

Here is the same photo, but with green showing the path into the chiller, and blue showing the path from the chiller, through the refugiums, and back to the tank.

---

Overall pretty happy with how it turned out. Here's a video of it filling.



And finally with the boring cover installed.

 

[smitten with ocean life]

wow! thats incredible!! amazing job!

 

[rizorido]

The most important info is what lights did you use and how did you mount them inside the filter housing??Also, a list of items used and plumbing parts etc would be very useful.

 

[static416]

The most important info is what lights did you use and how did you mount them inside the filter housing??Also, a list of items used and plumbing parts etc would be very useful.

The lights are these Barrina T5 Grow Lights, and they aren't underwater, they are actually behind the clear filter housings, mounted to the wall.

IMO this is actually better than the macro-reactor method of putting them in a sleeve inside the sealed tube, because any nuisance algae growth is accumulated over a larger part of the transparent surface area, and doesn't block as much light.

In the previous version, I mounted the lights directly onto the outside of the housing, and they weren't as effective because the algae accumulates on the inside directly in front of the light.

---

Primary components:

- Barrina T5 Grow Lights
- 20in x 4.5in Clear Filter Housing
- Pleated filters that I cut apart
- 3/4in male-to-male threaded adapters to join them
- 3/4in thread-to-thread elbow
- Black PVC pipe
- Black PVC flex pipe
- 3/4in unions
- Mylar film to line the cover
- 1/4in x 3in Tapcon

 

[static416]

Separately, some people have asked, why not an algae scrubber like this, or macro reactor like this.

1. The algae reactors require space in or near the sump, which I don't have. They cannot be installed in a closed-loop system like mine because they aren't sealed and can't operate under pressure. And even biggest are also way smaller.
2. The macro reactors are sealed, and can be used in a closed loop. However, they cost about 4x what this system does, for about 1/4 the volume.

 

[hatfielj]

Love seeing the innovation! Rather than growing Chaeto, I wonder if these would be more useful and even easier to accomplish if you just filled them with live rock rubble and allowed them to become a "cryptic zone" refugium instead? They would fill with sponges and bacteria and other useful critters and wouldn't need to be cleaned or removed very often at all, in fact, probably ever as long as the plumbing didn't get clogged up.

Or I wonder what would happen if you just filled them with sand and no lights?

 

[static416]

I wonder if these would be more useful and even easier to accomplish if you just filled them with live rock rubble and allowed them to become a "cryptic zone" refugium instead?

I definitely am focusing on the nutrient-export feature of refugiums, but this is interesting too.

I could fill one or two with rubble instead.

If I filled the two downstream ones with rubble, then those could basically double as a way to catch the chaeto debris before it passed out to the tank......

In fact, I could just remove the filter from my current final filter stage, and put the rubble there. It's already dark, and already downstream of both parallel chaeto flows.

This is a great idea.

 

[PPBlimpy]

Just stumbled onto your thread here. Confirmed what I am thinking about doing will work!!
Thank you!

Wish I had the room like yours to build out.

I am in the process of setting up something similar but using 2x MR1 media reactors, running them in parallel. one for chaeto and one for another macro- thinking dragons breathe to see if my tang gang will eat it.

I have set my system up with a traditional refugium but want to use it as a frag grow out. I also like the idea of the cryptic zone in a canister. Actually have an old Korallin Calcium reactor I may repurpose for this as an experiment. I do have a cryptic zone already but think the canister may actually work better.

Now do I run the cryptic canister before or after the macro reactors?

 

[static416]

one for chaeto and one for another macro- thinking dragons breathe to see if my tang gang will eat it.

Just FYI, after doing a bunch of research it seems like there is not likely any notable benefit, in terms of nutrient removal, from having more than one species of macro algae.

In terms of pure nutrient removal, it seems best to just go with whatever grows the fastest, which seems to be chaeto.

That said, if your Tang likes the red stuff, why not.

Now do I run the cryptic canister before or after the macro reactors?

I did end up using my downstream filter housing as a cryptic zone container. I put it downstream because I want to use it as coarse filtration to trap any macro algae that might escape the upstream refugiums before it can get into my tank.

It's better than a traditional filter in my case, because it's still enough to catch the macro algae, but allows the pods through.

 

[PPBlimpy]

I have been thinking about it all morning and thinking I may put the cryptic upstream of the macro reactors. mostly to try to filter any detritus and feed the sponges etc and catch it some of it before it gets caught in the chaeto. I will make it a habit of rinsing the macro every couple weeks when I do water change and trim the macro down.

I will be returning the water to my bubble catch sponge before my return pump chamber. If this works well I may not ad the turf algae scrubber I was planning to build.

Now taking it one more level. Calcium reactor effluent. Calcium reactor is only a single chamber, I was originally going to dump it before the refugium hoping the Macro will uptake the excess C02. Now I am thinking of "T"ing into the feed line to the reactors after the cryptic Canister.

I don't know if it will really help/work but i enjoy tinkering and testing this stuff!!

thank you for the reply!

 

[static416]

Calcium reactor effluent.

This is also what I did.

My calcium reactor is inline with the same system. Works great.

In my case, the water pressure is fairly significant because I'm pushing it up 8 feet to get it over the hallway. Which means all the components of the closed-loop have to be tightened pretty well or they leak. Calcium reactor and media reactors included.

If you are just operating qith 1/2in tubing and at sump-level, it shouldn't be as intense.

 

[PPBlimpy]

Ok cool. I am getting excited

I don't know if this is right or wrong, so please advise. I haven't ran a calcium reactor in 20 years and it was my own homebrew diy back then.

I am still setting this all up and can change any of it easily enough.

I have a 300gph pump that feeds 1/2" tubing that is "T"ed,

Line one -on the 90* leg gets reduced to 1/4 RO line and feeds the CalRX feed- this is to fill the system etc - CalRX effluent is then ran to APEX dos and regulated to 40ml/min (starting out slow) doing this so I can easily control the flow instead of precision valve and guessing flow rates.

Line two - straight thru gets the rest of the flow and feeds my reactors using 1/2" tubing. Will be cryptic cylinder in series then another "T" with effluent input and then to dual Macro reactors in parallel.

Draining into my return pump chamber. quick diagram . I think it will work. LOL

Sorry for muddying up your thread. I appreciate you and the help!

 

[static416]

This is how I pumped mine. It's 3/4in piping, but same idea. Similar to your diagram.

You'll need quick-connect to 1/4in NPT, and then a 1/2in slip to 1/4in NPT adapter.

Just FYI, that 300 gph is probably not powerful enough. Try it if you have it, but the flow will likely be quite low.

Maybe that's fine, but you may want something like a 1200 gph or more to push through that 1/2in tubing.

I had a 1600gph previously, with 1/2in tubing it was going through at 90-120 gph actual flow.

But try i

 

[PPBlimpy]

This is how I pumped mine. It's 3/4in piping, but same idea. Similar to your diagram.

You'll need quick-connect to 1/4in NPT, and then a 1/2in slip to 1/4in NPT adapter.

Just FYI, that 300 gph is probably not powerful enough. Try it if you have it, but the flow will likely be quite low.

Maybe that's fine, but you may want something like a 1200 gph or more to push through that 1/2in tubing.

I had a 1600gph previously, with 1/2in tubing it was going through at 90-120 gph actual flow.

But try i

Awesome. That is exactly what i am looking to do! I do have a 900gph and 1200Gph pumps sitting here.

So currently I have the 300GPH pump plumbed to the CalRX and "T" to a single reactor. This is currently running with no C02 to the CalRX or Chaeto in the reactors- so free flowing. have it running just testing the system. I will ad the Cryptic chamber and second reactor to this loop sometime this week.

Placing the large Cryptic in series and also splitting the reactors to parallel may bring flow to far down but contact time may be great. I guess we will find out!!

I do worry about to much pressure with the larger pump and using the DOS to push back the effluent into the Reactors feed line.

 

[static416]

I do worry about to much pressure with the larger pump and using the DOS to push back the effluent into the Reactors feed line.

If you are using a peristaltic pump, it should be fine. Likely even fine for centrifugal pump actually.

By tee-ing off the main line in two places, the input and output for the CalRX, you ensure the pressue is equal in both sides. It might be above atmospheric pressure, but should be equal if the tees are close together.

So the peristaltic pump pushing water through the CalRX only has to produce the same pressure differential that it did before, but at a high base pressure. The increased pressure from your pump is being applied equally to both sides of the CalRx dosing pump.

TLDR: Should be fine because the pressure on both tees is the same.

 

[PPBlimpy]

Wanted to come back and say thank you. Spent time this weekend and finally got the Cryptic reactor, an old 4"x24" calcium reactor body setup and plumbed in the two media reactors. Still need to finalize some details and clean up the plumbing, ad the T for the Calcium reactor effluent line and get a dosing pump to regulate the Calrx.

But they are flowing, lights are on the timer, and built a makeshift reflector with 1/2 foam board and the shiny side of aluminum foil to help reflect light and block the light from my sump. Picking up Chaeto tomorrow from a local. Looking forward to seeing how this DIY system performs.

 

[static416]

Mine actually almost over-performed since I posted this, and has pulled my Phosphate from 0.2ppm to almost undetectable in 1.5 months in a 350gal system. Which means it also pulled all the phosphate out of the rocks.

So I've turned the lighting schedule down significantly, and had to start dosing phosphate.

But still super-happy with it. Everything seems happier with the macro algae pulling all the stuff out of the water.

 

[PPBlimpy]

Glad to hear it is working!!

I got real lazy with this tank. everything looked great and i decided to finally test and my phos is sitting at 1.06...oops. nitrates at 66.

hoping this will bring things down. also building a DIY turf scrubber that i will eventually install.

 

[Dom]

First, a peak at the result.

After about 30 hours over 2.5 days, that is the finished product. Now the process.

---

I have a 350 gal, two tank, shared sump system in the living room next door.

But there isn't enough room in the cabinet or the living room for all the equipment, let alone a refugium, so I ran some 3/4in flex PVC piping through the wall and ceiling to the storage room.

I started out about a year ago with two 20in X 4.5in filter housings that I repurposed as inline refugiums.

They worked pretty well, and I ran them for about 6 months, but they had a few issues:

• Mounting the lights directly onto the housings facing inward was a mistake.
  • I have to pull them off every two weeks when I clean them or harvest chaeto.
• These are upstream of my chiller
  • That has small tubing in it I don't want to clog with refugium gunk.
  • I added a small inline filter as well, but still made me nervous.
• Sometimes I use the housings for filters
  • I have to remove half the chaeto (one housing worth) to insert pleated filters or carbon media.
• The total volume is a bit lower than I'd like

As a result, I ended up pulling the chaeto out entirely and just using them as filter housings 6 months ago.

---

After removing them though, I began to notice a bit more algae in the display, and had a harder time keeping the pH up.

So I decided to build a version 2. It would expand on the previous concept, fix some issues, and keep the old housings as is, for mechanical filteration.

Started by removing everything off the wall next to the existing install, and building a wood backing to mount everything to.

This is 1/2in plywood, with 1/2in x 2in boards added as standoffs and mounting points for the housing brackets.

I primed the wood white, and covered it in a layer of 2-part white epoxy for water-proofing and because it looks smooth and shiny.

Anchored to the wall with 3in tapcon's into the concrete.

Mounted the housing caps to the board with the brackets and prepped some plumbing. The 8inch steel brackets sticking out at the top are to hang the cover on, that I also built.

This is the box I also built that will cover the entire assembly most of the time. The box will prevent the grow lights from shining into the storage room 24x7, and the mylar lining will reflect the grow lights mounted on the wall behind the clear filter housings so that the lighting comes from all angles.

The chaeto is held inside the housing on the stripped core of a pleated filter, with the filter paper cut off.

---

This is the whole setup plumbed in, without the lighting installed.

Overall, the flow is as follows:

• Input flow from the sump, through the ceiling, and then through the Iwaki booster you can see mounted on the wall.
• Flow first passes down to the lowest of the old housings, next to the door, near floor.
  • This contains a 100 micron pleated filter that I swap and clean with citric acid about once a month.
  • This filter is here both to mechanically clean the water, but also prevent debris from getting into the chiller.
• Flow goes below the four new housings, and into the chiller on the bottom left.
• Comes out of the chiller, and through the Avast media reactor
• Then it's split to run through the top and bottom pairs of refugium housings in parallel
  • This decreases the flow through each refugium, to increase contact time
  • Ideally it also allows the two pairs to grow out more evenly in parallel, which may not have happened if they were in series and the early refugiums absorbed more nutrients than the later ones. (Unlikely this would be signficant, but still).
• Then finally through the last filter housing on the top near the door, before going back to the sump.
  • This last filter housing may not have a real filter in it most of the time, and be more of a settling chamber for any chaeto debris before going back to the sump.
  • Adding a real filter here is possible (as pictured) but would block any pods from making it back to the tank. So I'll likely just have a fine mesh.

Here is the same photo, but with green showing the path into the chiller, and blue showing the path from the chiller, through the refugiums, and back to the tank.

---

Overall pretty happy with how it turned out. Here's a video of it filling.



And finally with the boring cover installed.

This is a brilliant idea!

 

[Joseph86]

This is a seriously awesome idea. Thank your for sharing.