What high capacity ro unit ?

jake37

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I'm setting up a pair of 400 gallon tank and a couple of 150 gallon for freshwater. At least one of the tank will be low ph (clearwater) but all the tank will benefit from soft water they focus on sa fishes.
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My question is what sort of ro unit is low maint and low waste but produce good flow (200+ gpd); and what sort of tank do i need to store the water and how do i pump it from the basement to the fishroom. I.e, i'm looking for a 'system' in addition to ro unit.
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related is there a unit that will remove chlorine (and nothing more) - my though is both these system will run in parallel and then there will be a mixer at the aquarium where i can adjust the appropriate amount of ro water for the aquarium need - the 'filter' water is just regular tap water without chlorine.
 

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BRS 7 stage or air water and ice Typhoon series
 

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Regarding the RO/DI unit, you can achieve near 200 gpd using two membranes - watch the brs video on the "water saver" addition to your RO/DI unit to see how it is done. This will both double your output and cuts your waste water in half. If your source water is not too terrible, this works great.
 

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I just bought this one on Amazon, which is a steal RN at $150:



I just hooked an existing DI tube on the end and good to go. Some people complained about it leaking, but I added Teflon tape (included) to all the fittings and mine works fine
 

piranhaman00

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I run a double membrane BRS at 90psi rated at 200gpd, with 85F water and get around 400gpd ,
 
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jake37

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The ro unit is part of the system but how do i feed the water from a 300 or 400 gallon tank to a room above; and does the ro unit automagically turn off when the tank is full ?
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It sounds like from waht peopel are saying i want a 2 stage brs unit ?
 

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It really depends on what the quality of water is at your house. Pressure and existing TDS in the water.
People with High TDS need more stages of filters than people with low TDS water going in.
Low pressure, then you need a booster pump.

For me I have 50psi and 25TDS water from my tap so I have a 3 stage without a booster but your ideal setup might be different.
 

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The ro unit is part of the system but how do i feed the water from a 300 or 400 gallon tank to a room above; and does the ro unit automagically turn off when the tank is full ?
-
It sounds like from waht peopel are saying i want a 2 stage brs unit ?

If your feeding from a collection tank below to the aquarium above you will need a pump.

Any decent quality system will usually come with at least an auto shut off. Or you can upgrade to electronic or pressure switches, many different options for that.
 

Woodyman

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I just bought this one on Amazon, which is a steal RN at $150:



I just hooked an existing DI tube on the end and good to go. Some people complained about it leaking, but I added Teflon tape (included) to all the fittings and mine works fine

Not a bad deal
 

Woodyman

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I'm setting up a pair of 400 gallon tank and a couple of 150 gallon for freshwater. At least one of the tank will be low ph (clearwater) but all the tank will benefit from soft water they focus on sa fishes.
-
My question is what sort of ro unit is low maint and low waste but produce good flow (200+ gpd); and what sort of tank do i need to store the water and how do i pump it from the basement to the fishroom. I.e, i'm looking for a 'system' in addition to ro unit.
-
related is there a unit that will remove chlorine (and nothing more) - my though is both these system will run in parallel and then there will be a mixer at the aquarium where i can adjust the appropriate amount of ro water for the aquarium need - the 'filter' water is just regular tap water without chlorine.

A single membrane rated for 200GPD or run dual 100GPD membranes. You have many options for storage lots of people will use brute trash cans that are food safe. You can also buy RO/DI specific storage containers.

Water quality, pressure, water temp, and the components you choose for your system will determine maintenance, reliability, and production:waste ratio.

If your storing it below and need to get the water up you will need a pump of some kind. I doubt your planning on carrying buckets.

To get just filtered and not RO just add a 'T' fitting prior to the membrane with a ball lock after the 'T' on both sides, this way you can choose to send it to the RO membrane or into another storage container as just filtered water.
 
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jake37

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It really depends on what the quality of water is at your house. Pressure and existing TDS in the water.
People with High TDS need more stages of filters than people with low TDS water going in.
Low pressure, then you need a booster pump.

For me I have 50psi and 25TDS water from my tap so I have a 3 stage without a booster but your ideal setup might be different.
tap water is tds 120ish; gh 7 kh 3. We have chlorine in our tap (not chloramine).
 

Woodyman

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tap water is tds 120ish; gh 7 kh 3. We have chlorine in our tap (not chloramine).

That's not bad for TDS, you could go with either a single RO membrane rated for 200 GPD or run the 2 100 GPD membranes in series. Running 2 in series will cut back on some of the waste water generated. Or you could setup a high pH freshwater tank with it... ;) I've always thought about running a Lake Tanganyika tank, but never have..

Any idea of water pressure?

You can probably get by without one, but getting one would help you get closer to that 200GPD that you want. What temp does your source water typically come in at?

Without chloramines and the low source TDS a 4 stage would suffice. Just monitor your system so you change everything out appropriately and it will be fine.

It doesn't hurt to run an extra carbon or DI either. Ultimately it's up to how much your willing to spend and how much peace of mind you want.
 
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jake37

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That's not bad for TDS, you could go with either a single RO membrane rated for 200 GPD or run the 2 100 GPD membranes in series. Running 2 in series will cut back on some of the waste water generated. Or you could setup a high pH freshwater tank with it... ;) I've always thought about running a Lake Tanganyika tank, but never have..

Any idea of water pressure?

You can probably get by without one, but getting one would help you get closer to that 200GPD that you want. What temp does your source water typically come in at?

Without chloramines and the low source TDS a 4 stage would suffice. Just monitor your system so you change everything out appropriately and it will be fine.

It doesn't hurt to run an extra carbon or DI either. Ultimately it's up to how much your willing to spend and how much peace of mind you want.
I have no idea what our water pressure is; I can check before i buy the system as a plumber has to come over and do some work. As for high ph tank; I'm going ot have stuff like gbr, geo, clown loaches, angels, dicrossus filamentosus and such (not all in the same tank)...
 

Woodyman

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I have no idea what our water pressure is; I can check before i buy the system as a plumber has to come over and do some work. As for high ph tank; I'm going ot have stuff like gbr, geo, clown loaches, angels, dicrossus filamentosus and such (not all in the same tank)...

If you've already got someone coming I'd ask him to check the pressure for you. If your ~60psi you could get by without a booster pump anything less and I'd say it's defiantly worth getting especially if your going with the dual membrane setup.
 
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jake37

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Thread 'RO/DI Basic Guide' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ro-di-basic-guide.886770/

Figure out as much as you can about your source water. Build your system based off that. You may be able to get by with a 4 stage, or you may need more.
One thing totally missing from that faq is how to setup the second part of the system (storage tank for ro water; automagic pump from storage tank to your aquariums that adds appropriate pressure to push the water from the ro storage tank to the aquarium. It sounds like drinking ro water systems will do the same thing and include all the missing pieces (but of course are more expensive than diy).
 

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