Will this sump work

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Treenk

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I’ve seen some of the cube videos I watched a an entrance to a refugium from the bottom so it circulated water through it similar to this, is this good or would it be too much flow through I’ve also seen some with power heads to circulate I’m not sure what is best
 
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Now someone is telling me in my tank thread that I shouldn’t use a sump. And I read a sump can make the water “too clean” . Do you think the sump is a good idea... kind of bought all the stuff to make it side from drills but I don’t want to do it then regret it any thoughts?
 

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I would recommend using a sump.Personally I prefer a open sump with no chambers.This keeps things simple and I enjoy growing corals in mine.

@P-Dub your advice is awesome!
 

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I’ve seen some of the cube videos I watched a an entrance to a refugium from the bottom so it circulated water through it similar to this, is this good or would it be too much flow through I’ve also seen some with power heads to circulate I’m not sure what is best
I like it! No power head necessary, IMO.
 

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Now someone is telling me in my tank thread that I shouldn’t use a sump. And I read a sump can make the water “too clean” . Do you think the sump is a good idea... kind of bought all the stuff to make it side from drills but I don’t want to do it then regret it any thoughts?
Use a sump. There are many advantages to having a sump. A place to add filtration, set up an ATO, place your skimmer, dose easily, etc. just to name a few.
 

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I would recommend using a sump.Personally I prefer a open sump with no chambers.This keeps things simple and I enjoy growing corals in mine.

@P-Dub your advice is awesome!
Thank you@kireek. Here to help.
 

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Found some more for you. More is better, no? Just for fun...

 
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I started rebuilding the old tank, I haven’t completed design for the baffles yet. Although I stripped down the old one of the baffles inside and the caulking all around (it wasn’t only a bad design, it was leaking). And recaulked the cube. Thought I would share some pics of progress. I’m also making videos of the whole process, once I’m completely done I’ll try and make a video or two . P.S. I hate aquarium caulk it’s nothing like normal caulk it’s more like tar.
F6DCE58E-DBEA-4E14-B35A-49DC73C54903.jpeg

4A0198FF-F372-44E7-B415-3DEC3DC08B3F.jpeg
 
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Ok I think I have my top view designed. I did a measurement of each thing and gave it a little extra. Before I make a full blown in proportion design, will you either tell me if something is wrong or give a thumbs up to continue?

77D96D56-1DFC-475E-AF12-F0FB108CEDD5.jpeg
 

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I read something that said baffles should be 1.5” apart holding up a ruler that seems like a lot is it?
Baffles should be whatever works for the space and the components within. Remember, it is difficult to caulk two sides of the baffles when space is tight. Just a suggestion. Do a mock-up with cardboard first and you will see what I mean about caulking baffles. Once you have it dialed in with the cardboard, mark where the baffles will go and pre caulk the lines immediately prior to placing. Still a messy job.
 
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So the interior of the sump is 16” tall about how high do I want the “water over” baffle to be? And the baffles the water goes under, the height can pretty much go to the top because it will never be going over it anyway right? When the pump turns off basically all the water in the hoses are going to drop to the sump and maybe a 1/4” of the surface area of tank, does that sound right?
 
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If that math is true then approx .6 gallons would move to sump when a power outage happens. If the walls are 12.5 inches high the the return chamber would hold 1.8 gallons. And above it all would be 3.5” before water would flood all chambers and over flow out of my box which is an additional 3.6 gallons minus the volume of the sump and inlet nets which I’m going to be very generous and call a gallon because it’s to hard to know. Also if I keep the return pump area ato half way full 6.25” deep at all times. Then it would be .9gallons to fill return which I believe only .6 gallons would dump in leaving .3gallons to spare and if all hell breaks loose and other chambers have to fill then 3.5 gallons can enter the sump after a power outage to spill out onto the ground and that’s very generous on the safety side.
 
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To sum it up if you don’t want to follow the math. If walls are 12.5” tall. Also if pipes+ .25” of surface area in tank is what will fall. Then power outage will fill the return chamber all but .6g but if it gets way worse the sump can take 3.5g before water overflows the sump... is this a safe amount? That would only happen if the tank water level went more than 2” below the return.
 
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365C754D-2961-4140-920B-4DEDACE38F8E.jpeg

This is close to the right aspect ratio but haven’t written in measurements. Pretend the middle is a Top View (dark lines are for connects to the bottom) and the rest are how they would fold down to make a cube. Is this good or am I missing anywhere or should I take anything out
 
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This is the quick mock up to see if the things fit. The thing the skimmer sits on will be a bit different you can see that it doesn’t fit it moved the bottom out, but that was the thing in the old setup that lifted it. That won’t be the plumbing either just where the socks will go with the inlets. The ATO gauge will be with the pump “once I get one/make one”. I will be using clamps and spacer when I use the glass to make sure it’s straight OC.
 

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So far all looks ok as far as I can see. Maximize your useable space under the skimmer with blocks or strips of plexi glued to the walls of the chamber and use light diffuser egg crate as your shelf that will sitting on the plexi supports. Do not glue the egg crate shelf just have it sit on the plexi squares/strips.
 

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