3d printing plastic reef safe

Fishko

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My buddy bought a 3d printer and said he can print anything for me. I asked him to print me a random flow nozzle. He though he had the hatchbox black pla which is reef safe but had this overture stuff. Does anyone know if its reef safe. If not, im not gonna risk it. I can always buy a know reef safe one. He's currently printing it so ill post it once its done for kicks and giggles
164A9754-B146-4F6E-B5BF-19C8DA46CC2D.png
 
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theatrus

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With most fillaments, we have no actual data sheets on the material, so we have run with the fact that they're both PLA, and black. Both have been used with no ill-effects, so I wouldn't worry.
 

Reef'in Rob

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That is PLA and no it is not an option. I would not put that in my aquarium ever. PLA is made of cornstarch and will start to degrade releasing the coloring and starch into your system.

Safe options
PET, PETT, PTEG, ABS

Choose a product with known quality control. I use PETT T-Glase which is FDA approved so if it has coloring that too is approved.

HATCHBOX ABS 3D Printer Filament is a good one also.

I obtained this information when researching this very subject when I began 3D Printing for my aquarium. The biggest shock was about PLA. Never use that in an aquarium.
 
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theatrus

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Per
That is PLA and no it is not an option. I would not put that in my aquarium ever. PLA is made of cornstarch and will start to degrade releasing the coloring and starch into your system.

Safe options
PET, PETT, PTEG, ABS

Choose a product with known quality control. I use PETT T-Glase which is FDA approved so if it has coloring that too is approved.

HATCHBOX ABS 3D Printer Filament is a good one also.

I obtained this information when researching this very subject when I began 3D Printing for my aquarium. The biggest shock was about PLA. Never use that in an aquarium.
Personally I never end up printing with PLA (the high moisture absorbance makes it a pain to keep). You’re right on about the coloring though.

You can get uncolored plastics - for ABS it’s natural state is a semi translucent off white color. Any of the polyester types are probably similar. Coloring pigments help protect against light degradation though so a food safe option is ideal.
 

Reef'in Rob

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That is PLA and no it is not an option. I would not put that in my aquarium ever. PLA is made of cornstarch and will start to degrade releasing the coloring and starch into your system.

Safe options
PET, PETT, PTEG, ABS

Choose a product with known quality control. I use PETT T-Glase which is FDA approved so if it has coloring that too is approved.

HATCHBOX ABS 3D Printer Filament is a good one also.

I obtained this information when researching this very subject when I began 3D Printing for my aquarium. The biggest shock was about PLA. Never use that in an aquarium.

I actually created a thread on this soon as I read it. Really do not want people using the wrong things.

 

3D Reefin'

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With most fillaments, we have no actual data sheets on the material, so we have run with the fact that they're both PLA, and black. Both have been used with no ill-effects, so I wouldn't worry.

I agree. I use PLA in fresh and saltwater aquariums and have witnessed no harm to the fish, or coral. I have also not seen any noticeable deterioration. Before adding the 3D printed parts to the aquarium, I took measurements of the components before they went into service, and I check them roughly every 6 months and see no significant wear or deterioration. After a year, the parts measure only a couple thousands (+/-.002") off the original measurement.

That being said, always use caution when experimenting with your aquarium, the lives of the inhabitants depend on our care. This includes the use of 3D printed parts, other plastics or coatings.
 
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I agree with @3D Reefin' . I have several 3D printed items in PLA in my tank including two random flow nozzles (coated with coralline), sump baffle holders, and a frozen food dispenser and have I've never seen any ill effects or degradation of the material. To each their own I guess...
B45E1859-B425-4E30-ACD3-C96FFCA14115.jpeg

1EC8C8FD-13AF-4D15-8B7E-E5792166E7CD.jpeg

D71FB5C1-1BC4-436E-B3D1-6723344D4EE9.jpeg
 

Sisterlimonpot

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The problem with PLA is that it breaks down in the presence of UV. and when it does it releases everything into the water column. That's a fact. It's not open for debate. Red, orange, yellows etc are the colors you want to avoid when submerging in water because those dyes can be harmful to inverts.

I print solely with PETG for anything that goes under water. Antonio, the owner of VCA prints solely with PET as well.
 

3D Reefin'

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The problem with PLA is that it breaks down in the presence of UV. and when it does it releases everything into the water column. That's a fact. It's not open for debate. Red, orange, yellows etc are the colors you want to avoid when submerging in water because those dyes can be harmful to inverts.

I print solely with PETG for anything that goes under water. Antonio, the owner of VCA prints solely with PET as well.

Could you please provide me with links to where you got this information, I would like to do some further reading on this, as I have not come across this information from reliable sources.

Thanks

In my experience, I have not seen any discoloring, breaking down, or water being tinted by the PLA. PLA is not the only material I use to print aquarium components. It just happens to be one that is currently in use without any issues. PETG and ABS are also materials that I have had good success with.
 

Reef'in Rob

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Could you please provide me with links to where you got this information, I would like to do some further reading on this, as I have not come across this information from reliable sources.

Thanks

In my experience, I have not seen any discoloring, breaking down, or water being tinted by the PLA. PLA is not the only material I use to print aquarium components. It just happens to be one that is currently in use without any issues. PETG and ABS are also materials that I have had good success with.

https://all3dp.com/2/is-pla-biodegradable-what-you-really-need-to-know/
 

Paul B

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I use a 3D Resin Printer and the stuff it prints have the consistency of hardwood.

I never made anything for inside my tank but I would not hesitate to use it there as it is resin, not cornstarch.

 

me & my baby

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I have had a 3d printed needle wheel and valute in use for almost 2 years now with no issues at all . I have a lot of stuff for and I’m my tank that’s all pla with no ill effects . I won’t print with and because of the fumes with my kids in the house haven’t used petg so I have no real world experience with it .
 

3D Reefin'

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Thanks for the link.

After reading the article, I don't see why PLA would be a bad choice to print components with. Saltwater aquariums don't reach the ideal deterioration conditions for PLA, so the break down rate is slow and minimal. I would not be surprised if a PLA component outlasts the aquarium without any issues.

Also, the link you provided is published by a magazine, nothing against the magazine company, but I wouldn't rely on that to be very accurate information.

Anyways, I think we are beating a dead horse here. I think you have a valid concern for PLA contaminating the water quality, and I agree, any material going into our fish tanks should be thoroughly researched for potential toxicity. But, as can been see throughout the forum, there are many members here with long lasting PLA components in their systems without any issues. I have PLA parts as well as PETG and ABS in use, I see no difference between them and consider all 3 reef safe. I personally am more freaked out about using Super Glue to glue frags or rocks. I always think its going to leach in my tank, although I'm aware its safe. ;Facepalm
 

Reef'in Rob

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Definitely agree with the sentiment of your reply and thank you. My main concern with the break down of the PLA is the dye used within. Chinese product are notoriously known for the chemical dyes. I as a destructive test engineer for a company that use to source dyes from China in materials had this issue a lot. The companies would provide sample to test and they would meet the specifications but within about 6 months I could go buy the product off the store shelf and run it through the lab test and find the test product versus what was shipped was two very different materials or dye. My main thing I want people to understand from my thread is one to understand what PLA is. Two, know where you source your material. Three, understand just because it says its PLA with non-toxic dye that is not worth anything. It needs to have certain industry standard markings.
 

3D Reefin'

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Definitely agree with the sentiment of your reply and thank you. My main concern with the break down of the PLA is the dye used within. Chinese product are notoriously known for the chemical dyes. I as a destructive test engineer for a company that use to source dyes from China in materials had this issue a lot. The companies would provide sample to test and they would meet the specifications but within about 6 months I could go buy the product off the store shelf and run it through the lab test and find the test product versus what was shipped was two very different materials or dye. My main thing I want people to understand from my thread is one to understand what PLA is. Two, know where you source your material. Three, understand just because it says its PLA with non-toxic dye that is not worth anything. It needs to have certain industry standard markings.

I agree with your post. Unfortunately, as you may know, most materials that come with certificates are sometimes hard to find, and usually 100-200% more expensive. This usually drives some people towards more affordable materials. Sad and funny that they switch the quality of the products from what is sent to test and what is sold to consumers.

There is a thread on this forum that list all the known "reef safe" filaments and brands. I think this is one of a few threads out there. I have not printed with most of the filaments listed, so I can't give an input, but its worth a read for those that may want to tinker with 3D printed parts.

 

Gareth elliott

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Have used pla for frag plugs without issue, but my printer only has pla support. My printer was also free so im not going to complain, havent played that much with it tbh.
Sketching a housing atm, to print for an autofeeder with it, but that wont touch water, so not that concerned.
 

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