75g Rimless Crystal Dynamic - Build Thread

Clayton Jessup

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ok then that sounds good. I ll be looking out for the PAR readings on the tank with the ATI 6 bulb. I am constantly battling between a 36in or 48in fixture , like right now I looking a lot at a 3ft Giesiemann Matrixx II, 6 bulb , I contacted Giesemann and thats the light they recommended for my 48x18x21in tall aquarium . So thats the reason why I started looking at 3ft lights vs 4ft light. I ll see what I go with once I get funding.
 

BigJohnny

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Sweet build, didnt realize rollermat had a sump! BTW, what depth do you run your vertex Omega 150, and how did you break it in? I have seen various methods (besides the vinegar technique I mean once actually in your tank), such as volute all the way closed and pipe all the way closed for 24 hours with cup off, then cup back on and adjust only with the pipe. Others have said to run it with the volute closed but pipe all the way open then adjust the pipe. Then some people say adjust the volute and keep the pipe open etc. Would love to know what worked for you as far as breaking in and what settings you have it at now.

Thanks!
 
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MaddyP

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Sweet build, didnt realize rollermat had a sump! BTW, what depth do you run your vertex Omega 150, and how did you break it in? I have seen various methods (besides the vinegar technique I mean once actually in your tank), such as volute all the way closed and pipe all the way closed for 24 hours with cup off, then cup back on and adjust only with the pipe. Others have said to run it with the volute closed but pipe all the way open then adjust the pipe. Then some people say adjust the volute and keep the pipe open etc. Would love to know what worked for you as far as breaking in and what settings you have it at now.

Thanks!

Thank you! To be honest, I dropped the skimmer in the sump and let it run for a week wide open. I think I even removed the adjustment pipe to completely free up flow. I also removed the plug from the bottom of the cup so the "skimmed" water went back into the sump. After about a week it started getting gross and the micro bubbles went away. I adjusted from there. :)
 

BigJohnny

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Thank you! To be honest, I dropped the skimmer in the sump and let it run for a week wide open. I think I even removed the adjustment pipe to completely free up flow. I also removed the plug from the bottom of the cup so the "skimmed" water went back into the sump. After about a week it started getting gross and the micro bubbles went away. I adjusted from there. :)

When you say wide open, do you mean both the pipe and the volute, or just the pipe?

Thanks
 
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Quick update! I haven't had much time (or budget) to focus on the tank with my WEDDING coming up! Oh yeah, she said yes! We are getting married in October!

IMG_3261.JPG

The tank continues to mature with little influence from myself. DOS is set up with two jugs to change 5 gallons a week. Aside from cleaning the glass, no other maintenance. Luckily, only softies survived the move and love the dirtier water.
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A future update will be centered around an water mixing station with automated 3-way ball valve. I've ordered (2) 25 gallon vertical tanks and already have the 3-way ball. Should be an interesting setup! :)
 

pwilliaml

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I was looking at your plumbing for you two small BRS filters for GAC and GFO. Did you put valves on both sides of them or just the outlet? If just the outlet, how are you going to take the bottoms off without water going everywhere? Also, did you ever have any issues with your Icecap sump from your old 40? I'm thinking of getting one of those. Thanks.
 
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I was looking at your plumbing for you two small BRS filters for GAC and GFO. Did you put valves on both sides of them or just the outlet? If just the outlet, how are you going to take the bottoms off without water going everywhere? Also, did you ever have any issues with your Icecap sump from your old 40? I'm thinking of getting one of those. Thanks.

I actually put the valve before the reactor, that way I can close the valve and change the carbon/gfo. I made the mistake putting the valves after the reactor in the above picture, it has since been fixed. However, I have realized another issue: the check valve is just above the return pump so when the power fails water drains through the reactors into the sump created a higher than desired water level. I'll need to plumb this tank again to fix the issue. For now, I have a battery backup that keeps the return pump running when power fails.
 
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As I mentioned previously, my next project is a water mixing station using automated components. I've been working on the control box over the past few days to allow control and sensor input. Here's what I can up with:

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As you can see, 4 buttons and 8 inputs allow some flexibility for configuration.

I've also finished wiring the automated valve I'll be using on the mixing station. This will be the only valve on the entire mixing station.

IMG_4264.JPG

With this setup, I intend the button to activate the following procedures:

Transfer: rotates ball valve and turns pump on to send water to mixing tank. This procedure will be programmed to end when either the RODI tank hits low float or Salt tank hits high float.

Cancel: simulates end of transfer, ball valve will rotate back to original position towards Salt tank and pump turns off.

Fill: signals solenoid on RODI line to open and fill RODI tank to high float. This is primarily for when the salt tank needs to be refilled and RODI tank is not full.

Mix: signals pump to turn on and run for set amount of time on Salt tank. This will be used when adding new salt after a transfer.

More to come when 25g tanks come in Fromm Rural King!
 
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Update! Finished the programming and testing of the 3-way valve through Apex Fusion in a theoretical installation. Although it took a few virtual outlets, the solution is fairly clean! I'll post a video this evening of a full test, but for now here is a snapshot of my Apex screen. First column is physical outlets, second column is virtual outlets, and third column is four buttons and four float switches. I can't wait to receive the 25 gallon containers!

upload_2017-8-9_10-39-5.png
 

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Super cool! Looking forward to the video.
 
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Here is a quick video simulating the transfer from RODI tank to mixing (salt) tank. When the "Transfer" button is pressed, the valve is activated to transfer position and pump activates to move water. As the level rises in the salt tank the float switches register the high level and activates valve to change back to mixing position.

 

JALIASC

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Here is a quick video simulating the transfer from RODI tank to mixing (salt) tank. When the "Transfer" button is pressed, the valve is activated to transfer position and pump activates to move water. As the level rises in the salt tank the float switches register the high level and activates valve to change back to mixing position.


That is super neat dude! So glad it's working the way you want and all your efforts have paid off
 
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Pump is cleaned and ready for install. Uniseal should be in tomorrow from MD.

My thought was running plumbing to top of container would increase mixing efficiency, but also noise. In a small container as this (25 gallons) mixing should happen with enough water movement near the bottom.

What do you guys think about this configuration? Any benefit to running return to top of container?

IMG_4302.JPG
 

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