Another attempt at fixing Apex EB832

_AV

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Some of my previous repairs:

First off, let me give a lot of credit to @MadeForThat for bringing this issue up in his excellent post earlier:
I think that a lot of people can benefit from this type of information.

I've also been wanting to write about this for sometime. Was just looking for a good opportunity. Alas, I didn't have to wait too long: I received a broken EB832 from a fellow reefer for repair and before opening the unit, I already new exactly what the problem is going to be.
But just knowing is not going to do this poor EB832 any good, we need to get it working again. So let's open it up. Notice that this particular EB832 is very very clean. There is no salt, oxidation or anything inside or outside that would suggest that the failure is due to negligence. So what is wrong then?
IMG_0406.JPG


Oh, look! There it is, like that shy girl at a prom dance, sitting in the corner, wondering if anyone will notice her:

IMG_0407.JPG


Yes, this is our little 12V AC to DC power supply. model YS-5V1ASZD. Its only purpose in life is to provide power to a couple of controllers so that the EB832 can communicate with Apex head unit over aquabus. Well, that and also so that it can switch outlets on and off. Both tasks are kind of critical to the proper operation of the entire unit.

Like oxygen to a brain.

So just like that shy prom girl, our little PSU has a big heart filled with the motivation to do the best it can to make this humongous unit a better place, by providing power to critical components. But it doesn't know yet that it really can't do that. Or it really shouldn't be forced into this situation. Why? Let's take a closer look at the PSU:
IMG_0409.JPG IMG_0410.JPG

From the markings, we would assume that it is a 5V 1A power supply, but it is not. It is a 12V PSU, 500mA. Should be plenty big to empower those ICs. The design is very common, I believe this particular one is open sourced and widely available. On the board we see all kinds of prefilters, coils, capacitors. So why can't it do what it was designed for? Let's take a slightly different angle:

IMG_0411.JPG

First, can you see a somewhat bulged capacitor on the left? This is where it all starts. @MadeForThat saw that too I'm sure, but he didn't want to rant in his post. So you get to read my rant:

<RANT>
Capacitors fail often. They are both very critical and yet represent the most common failure in power supplies. But not all capacitors are the same. Every device with electronics needs a PSU, yet not every device fails due to a PSU in the first 2 years of operation. This suggests that some that don't fail as often use capacitors that are somehow different, I would event go on a limb and say that they might be, oh, I don't know, of a higher quality. That way they last longer and work better. Let's take a look at what Neptune chose for their EB832:
IMG_0464.JPG


Zhuohao capacitors? Zhuohao are not just low quality, they are the bottom of the bottom of the barrel capacitors. You can pretty much only source them directly from China. No reputable electronics supplier in the US carries them. Just google them to get some juicy details from the electronics community.
As it was previously mentioned, this entire PSU assembly, including capacitors and whatnot, can be purchased retail at ~$3-4. Shipped.
These particular PSU are really hobby grade items. If you are into Arduino tinkering, then it's a good option to prototype a toy project.

Neptune didn't even implement this module, they bought a truck load of them on alibaba. Because they are probably $1 or less each wholesale.
1613584831548.png

<END OF RANT>

Enough ranting. This poor EB832 is still hurting and needs to be fixed.
Of course, there is always an option to just replace the failed PSU with a working one. But the problem is that we would be replacing one subpar component with another component which is equally subpar. What if we fixed the component by replacing very low quality parts with something that is going to actually last past Neptune's meager 1 year warranty?
After all, the design of the PSU is very common and actually good enough for what it must do. It's the choice of parts to implement it that is questionable.

To verify the theory that this PSU is our problem, we will perform a quick diagnostic. The PSU is rated up to 1A current. It also has a red LED on the DC side to indicate that it's working properly. Just because this LED is on, doesn't mean that the unit is working to the specs. We'll apply a reasonable load, a small computer fan with 0.25A draw to the DC side to see if the PSU can power it up. In my experiment, the fan didn't spin and the red LED immediately turned off under the load. Capacitors are bad.


To fix this, we will remove all capacitors on board, regardless of their condition. We don't want that junk, as we can never be sure how much longer they will last. All caps removed and the area is clean and ready for the good stuff:
IMG_0467.JPG


IMG_0470.JPG


And speaking of the good stuff. For the fix, we have a healthy mix of brand new Panasonic, Rubycon and Nichicon capacitors. All top brands with longest life available:
IMG_0462.JPG

These capacitors together probably cost more than the entire PSU unit they are going into.

They fit nice and clean into the original spots on the board:
IMG_0472.JPG

Let's clip excess leads and the module is all back together and ready to go:
IMG_0475.JPG

I tested it with the same 0.25A fan and now the fan spins and the red LED stays on. The PSU is now fixed.

Once it's back inside the EB832, the red LED stays on and the EB832 is happy again.
IMG_0476.JPG
 
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SuncrestReef

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Great write-up. Did you take the time to see if the other capacitors inside are also Zhuohao?

I wish I had DIY electronic skills. I don’t even own a soldering iron. :(
 

takitaj

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Great information! Thanks for posting it!

I probably have enough caps on hand (former EE & I like to build amps, preamps, speakers, etc.), I wonder if I should just do it now or maybe I should wait until the 1 year warranty is done? ;Nailbiting
 

Joeg

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I like seeing these repair posts but I'll be danged if I don't feel that I've overpaid for a ticking time bomb. To be blunt it's something that makes be question Neptune of their products even though I've not experienced any problems.

I've been considering the purchase of a Trident or KH director and posts like this makes me question why I'd want to toss more money at Neptune. It also makes me wonder whether other companies like GHL are taking similar short cuts. I fully accept that just about everything in this hobby should be viewed as a consumable and feel I am reasonable in my expectations of how long something should last. Seeing the number of failed eb832's in the forums is really disappointing.

If anyone has done teardowns and assessments of the GHL profilux and KH director please let me know since I may be willing to switch.
 

Peter_in_the_city

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Amazing stuff. If I had known about the electrical build quality of apex, I don't think I'd have it as my aquarium controller.
 
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_AV

_AV

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Great write-up. Did you take the time to see if the other capacitors inside are also Zhuohao?
EB832 is a soup of modules. The main PSU you see in the lower right corner with a fan is actually not bad. It provides power to the aquabus and 24V ports.

Great information! Thanks for posting it!

I probably have enough caps on hand (former EE & I like to build amps, preamps, speakers, etc.), I wonder if I should just do it now or maybe I should wait until the 1 year warranty is done? ;Nailbiting
All depends on your risk tolerance! If I travelled a lot and had to rely on these to keep the tank running while I'm away, I'd have them replaced. But again, I break warranty routinely.

@_AV , nice write up. Much better to replace the caps with quality components. Would you happen to have a list of the caps one would need to order for this or perhaps a link? TIA
These are the specific parts used in this repair:
2x 25PX470MEFC8X11.5
1x UVC2G4R7MPD
1x EEU-FC1E470H

You can definitely go higher on 470uF caps, just watch the diameter as the space is fairly tight.
 

minus9

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Nice! I need to repair mine, so I'll probably upgrade the caps too. I still need to find the right film resistors that are shot on mine. Next time someone opens one of these up, can you snap a clear close-up of the resistors in this pic?
0A060025-10F4-45F8-A4A1-4DD499D1FE1D.jpeg

R19, R21 and R50
 

ReefBeta

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WOW. I always see the argument in GHL vs Apex that GHL is a lot better built. I think to myself how much better can it be? Now that I see how weak the weak link in Apex is, yeah there is a lot of room to be better than that lol.
 
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_AV

_AV

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Nice! I need to repair mine, so I'll probably upgrade the caps too. I still need to find the right film resistors that are shot on mine. Next time someone opens one of these up, can you snap a clear close-up of the resistors in this pic?
0A060025-10F4-45F8-A4A1-4DD499D1FE1D.jpeg

R19, R21 and R50
Thank you. The close up won't do you any good. There are no marking on those resistors. The datasheet of the TI IC has a sample circuit, which was likely used here, with resistor and capacitor values listed.
Also, resistors usually don't blow up like that on their own. They are likely the casualty of something else shorting.
 
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_AV

_AV

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For general awareness. You can see that my original post was censored by a moderator. The part censored out was the constructive criticism of Neptune's approach to the design of EB832 and the role their equipment plays in this hobby.
1613755629154.png


I have a copy of the original post and it will appear in a different venue.
 

revhtree

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For general awareness. You can see that my original post was censored by a moderator. The part censored out was the constructive criticism of Neptune's approach to the design of EB832 and the role their equipment plays in this hobby.
1613755629154.png


I have a copy of the original post and it will appear in a different venue.

A small part of your self titled rant was removed. We appreciate you spending your time to help the community.
 
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minus9

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For general awareness. You can see that my original post was censored by a moderator. The part censored out was the constructive criticism of Neptune's approach to the design of EB832 and the role their equipment plays in this hobby.
1613755629154.png


I have a copy of the original post and it will appear in a different venue.
That's unfortunate to hear and begs the question, was there any "outside" influence in that decision? Hum? You would think getting direct feedback about a product would be helpful, but I guess not?
 

MadeForThat

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Nice Work! thanks for the shoutout! I am all confused now because I believe I replaced the PSU with 12v and Im getting worried because I have shipped a few of the 12v supplies. My eb832s have been happy enough with the 12v, so do you mind confirming the output voltage? @_AV I guess it doesn't really matter in this context, as you are just replacing the caps, but I want to make sure I don't cause anyone to fry every IC on their bar
 

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For general awareness. You can see that my original post was censored by a moderator. The part censored out was the constructive criticism of Neptune's approach to the design of EB832 and the role their equipment plays in this hobby.
1613755629154.png


I have a copy of the original post and it will appear in a different venue.
That's not right. Wonder what rule you broke.
 

MadeForThat

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@BZOFIQ reef2reef is sponsored in part by manufacturers. It is totally reasonable that they would attempt to limit dissenting opinion of their sponsor, in a "scratch my back" sort of situation. While I wish it weren't so, this site is a blessing to the reefing community, and a little bit of mild censorship is the cost to the users. If it were my site I would probably do the same lol. It is the same reason I had to stay away from the "Overpriced Junk" point that I wanted to make in my post ;)
 
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_AV

_AV

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Nice Work! thanks for the shoutout! I am all confused now because I believe I replaced the PSU with 12v and Im getting worried because I have shipped a few of the 12v supplies. My eb832s have been happy enough with the 12v, so do you mind confirming the output voltage? @_AV I guess it doesn't really matter in this context, as you are just replacing the caps, but I want to make sure I don't cause anyone to fry every IC on their bar
I'm fairly certain it's actually a 12V PSU. I'll double check soon. The markings on the back of the unit threw me off.
 

minus9

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Honestly, if you (the manufacturer) can't take direct feedback/criticism about your products, then what does that say about your willingness to improve your products and actually care about your customers and the products that you make? I get censoring someone who is badgering or just being rude, but taking constructive criticism is part of the process in order to improve as a company (and as a person). Not cool. But, hey, I could be overstepping here, since I didn't see the actual quote that was removed?
 

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