Clam Myths

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PacificEastAquaculture

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Clam Care
*Lots of light-nutrition from photosynthesis
*Rock or appropriate surface to attach
*Put in a good location and leave alone
* Utilize Nitrate and Phosphate as food
*Supplemental feeding is not recommended
*Be observant of tankmates nipping
*Clean shell-check for Pyramid snails
*Parameters
SG 1.026-1.028
Alkalinity 7.5-8
CA 400+
MG 1250+
Temp 76-80
Nitrate approx 10-15

In the wild, I have collected clams in remote island nations. In my experiences, clams are found in areas of high flow, varying temperatures from 65-85, clear water, no more than about 6 feet below surface with intense sunlight.

Wild collected clams can be just as hardy as cultured--it is dependant upon collection and handling! Wild collected clams from French Polynesia are no longer collected and handled correctly. They all harbor the Perkensis parasite and the stress of handling allows it to take over and kill those clams. We have a farm in Tonga, those clams not infected and handled correctly. It is all about the mind set of the collector. Commodity vs prized gem.
 
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A few words on acclimation:
Another common misconception is that clams require lengthy acclimation times. IME this is not only untrue, but dangerous. 45 minutes of a steady drip acclimation is sufficient. Longer than this and the clam will likely be stressed and longer acclimation is unnecessary. I have handled many tens of thousands of clams over the years and long acclimation is not needed.

Quarantine
Any newly acquired animal, from any source, should be carefully inspected and put into a separate tank from your display. This is the only way to be sure you do not add any unwanted things into your valuable display. Quarantine is a time for observation and settling in for the new animals. It is especially important that lighting and other conditions are consistent with your display.

Clams should not be dipped. Freshwater dips are used only in specific situations and as a last resort.
 
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