Current Quarantine Protocol

threebuoys

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Jay,

this is great information. I’ve been out of the hobby for over 10 years and a lot has changed since then.

I picked up a 20gal tall from PetCo yesterday as all of their tanks were 50% off and $24 for a brand new QT tank seemed like a great deal.
I’ve always liked to paint the back black and the bottom white for my QTs. I feel a black back combined with a large PVC T provides a place for the fish to “hide” and help them with the healing process. I like the white bottom because it helps show where leftover food or poop needs to be vacuumed out and also helps me observe the fish.



DFF302F2-402E-4CFB-8275-B0AB75C8E892.jpeg


Questions:

1: I have a small powerhead in there currently. Should I remove it?

2: In your current steps you mention to acclimate the fish but didn’t elaborate. I went to the sticky with the links and the first link has acclimation steps, but the QT steps are different from your latest post here. So I’m kind of confused. Obviously I want to follow the latest guidelines in this thread. However what is the best way to acclimate a fish just brought home from the store prior to adding to the QT? I used to drip acclimate. Is that still the best practice?


Mike,
I believe Jay is out of pocket for a day or two.

With regard to the powerhead, you should be fine as long as it doesn't overpower the particular species you have in QT and if you have some type of structure where the fish can hide if they don't like it.

With regard to acclimation, drip acclimation still works well. However, if you buy a fish on-line, the ammonia levels may spike before you can complete, particularly if deliver is delayed for more than 24 hours. In that case you will want to aerate the water, measure for ammonia if you have an accurate test kit, and possibly acclimate more quickly. Jay also cautions about increasing the salinity too quickly for both fish purchased on-line and from the LFS. Below are a couple of quotes from a recent thread where Jay discussed this issue.


Do you know the specific gravity/salinity of the dealer's tank compared to yours? I see a lot of acclimation issues when dealers hold there fish at 1.020 and then folks try to acclimate them to full salinity at home - that causes fish to dehydrate, and smaller, thinner fish (like Biota tangs) have more of an issue with this.

Jay

Yea the salinity was at 1.02 and i had brought him up to 1.025 over the course of an hour or so maybe, he was in 1.025 for about 48 hours before he died, He was very small.
No luck with the fish store on that front... thanks for the reply

Sorry - that is likely too large of a rise for a small YT to go through in an hour. One trick is to drop the salinity of the destination tank to 1.020, then acclimate the new fish over, then gradually bring up the salinity of that tank up over 2 days or so. For small fish, I try not to raise the specific gravity more than 1.003 units in 24 hours. Oddly, you can drop the specific gravity much faster, the fish tolerate that just fine.

Jay

Appreciate that, ill be much more careful about that in the future thats for sure.
 
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Kiorayla

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Rock just will absorb the copper. You don’t want anything in the QT tank that is capable of absorbing copper due to the chance of it dropping below the 2.0 and having to restart again. And I definitely wouldn’t put any rock from the QT tank back into the display tank
Especially not if keeping shrimps too :)
 

Kiorayla

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Jay,

this is great information. I’ve been out of the hobby for over 10 years and a lot has changed since then.

I picked up a 20gal tall from PetCo yesterday as all of their tanks were 50% off and $24 for a brand new QT tank seemed like a great deal.
I’ve always liked to paint the back black and the bottom white for my QTs. I feel a black back combined with a large PVC T provides a place for the fish to “hide” and help them with the healing process. I like the white bottom because it helps show where leftover food or poop needs to be vacuumed out and also helps me observe the fish.



DFF302F2-402E-4CFB-8275-B0AB75C8E892.jpeg


Questions:

1: I have a small powerhead in there currently. Should I remove it?

2: In your current steps you mention to acclimate the fish but didn’t elaborate. I went to the sticky with the links and the first link has acclimation steps, but the QT steps are different from your latest post here. So I’m kind of confused. Obviously I want to follow the latest guidelines in this thread. However what is the best way to acclimate a fish just brought home from the store prior to adding to the QT? I used to drip acclimate. Is that still the best practice?
We always Float Acclimate them in the water for 20ish minutes, then drip acclimate every 10 minutes for 30 minutes :)
 

MamaP

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Hi, All. I have a question. If you're treating a fish in copper and another comes down with something, can you add the other fish without starting the clock over, or do you have to reset the clock?

Thank you!
 
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Jay Hemdal

Jay Hemdal

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Hi, All. I have a question. If you're treating a fish in copper and another comes down with something, can you add the other fish without starting the clock over, or do you have to reset the clock?

Thank you!

I always start the clock over again at day 1. My typical copper treatment is coppersafe for 30 days. If I move a new fish into the QT, even if it doesn't show signs of active disease, I reset that 30 day timer to day 1. I'm never in any rush getting fish out of quarantine - I can still enjoy them there, so I never worry about getting them into the DT.....

Jay
 

MamaP

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I always start the clock over again at day 1. My typical copper treatment is coppersafe for 30 days. If I move a new fish into the QT, even if it doesn't show signs of active disease, I reset that 30 day timer to day 1. I'm never in any rush getting fish out of quarantine - I can still enjoy them there, so I never worry about getting them into the DT.....

Jay
Thank you, Jay. The only reason I hate to drag it out is because they're in a much smaller tank (5 fish - biggest are 3" - in ea. 20g long, which is not ideal, but they're the largest spares I have).

I'm on my 3rd ich outbreak in my 2 years of reef keeping. :( First was before I knew about QT'ing; second I suspect was brought in on a frag or CUC. This time, I suspect it was from macroalgae added to DT. I lost my beautiful WTBT tang this past week (even though she showed no signs) and I'm now seeing signs on 3/10 fish, so I'm going to have to treat them all... again... Seriously considering immunity vs. QT'ing at this point, since it seems impossible to keep ich out. :(
 
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Jay Hemdal

Jay Hemdal

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Thank you, Jay. The only reason I hate to drag it out is because they're in a much smaller tank (5 fish - biggest are 3" - in ea. 20g long, which is not ideal, but they're the largest spares I have).

I'm on my 3rd ich outbreak in my 2 years of reef keeping. :( First was before I knew about QT'ing; second I suspect was brought in on a frag or CUC. This time, I suspect it was from macroalgae added to DT. I lost my beautiful WTBT tang this past week (even though she showed no signs) and I'm now seeing signs on 3/10 fish, so I'm going to have to treat them all... again... Seriously considering immunity vs. QT'ing at this point, since it seems impossible to keep ich out. :(
Immunity works partially, but it also seems to have a time limit to it. I trust my quarantine process, but I always have a “plan B” in the wings if/when there is a failure.
Jay
 

DrMMI

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@Jay Hemdal Does the tank need to be continuously at 81 degrees for the full 6 weeks? For example, if the temp drops down below that for a day or so, does the 6 week clock reset?
I'm 2 and a half weeks into my coral quarantine and forgot to plug my heater back in last night. Tank got down to at least 78 by the time I realized almost 24 hours later.
 
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Jay Hemdal

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@Jay Hemdal Does the tank need to be continuously at 81 degrees for the full 6 weeks? For example, if the temp drops down below that for a day or so, does the 6 week clock reset?
I'm 2 and a half weeks into my coral quarantine and forgot to plug my heater back in last night. Tank got down to at least 78 by the time I realized almost 24 hours later.
The entire process isn't set in stone like that. It is more like, "warmer water and longer fallow periods are safer than cooler water and shorter periods of time". So, no, the clock does not reset with a short drop in temperature. If you can run the tank a bit warmer than 81, you can be even more sure that the ich tomonts are dead from lack of host. Back in the pre-reef tank days, I would let a tank lay fallow at 85 F. Corals don't appreciate that though....

Jay
 

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