Cycling Questions

[WindowsTen]

I'm really new to the hobby and just set up my tank to begin its fishless cycling period. I've looked through some other threads, but want to ask some questions more specific to my tank and lights :].

First, some background info. I did some tests today, and my parameters are as follows
pH 7.7 (I know this is a little low)
Alk is 7.8 dKH
Temp is 78F
I don't have a hydrometer currently, but I followed the salt's recipe pretty dang close. Will be picking one up tomorrow
Following the directions of Brightwell Aquatics' Quikcycl and Microbacter7, I dosed Ammonia just below 2 ppm and added the bacteria culture. In the tank, I have dry rock and live sand (MB7 says not to use live sand, but oh well we will see what happens).
I think I'll simply wait and watch the pH as time passes since it's pretty close to being "recommended".

Now for my questions - I have a Nero 3 wavemaker and have been experimenting with locations for it in the tank, knowing I want to minimize deadzones. Based on these pictures of the aquascape, any suggestions on where to put it? The return pump nozzle is in the top right corner, so I was trying to find a spot to add to the flow created by it.
I have an AI Prime 16HD (thanks, dad), and I'm a little lost by all of its programming options. Hoping for some guidance on them, be it articles or videos, or advice from personal experience. Also, should I cycle with the light on some schedule?

Hopefully, all of this sounds okay!

 

[Fish Fan]

Hello!

Nice looking start!

I'm sure others can help you with your circ pump and lighting question I just wanted to mention that in regard to your cycle, you would want to be measuring your ammonia levels through this time. Your alk and pH are not much of a concern at this point. If you need more info on doing a fishes cycle, please let us know!

Good luck!

 

[kboogie]

Excellent job with the fishnets quick cycle. I’ve been using a similar process for over 30 years. IMHO it is the best way to cycle. My cycles average less than 3 days but I also use live sand and bacteria seeded rock.

One big tip. The only two things you need to test during the cycle are Ammonia, Nitrite (let the controversy begin), and Nitrate. Save the other tests for later. You want to see your Ammonia rise and drop to zero and you want to see detectable Nitrates with zero Nitrite. One of the controversies in the hobby is around testing nitrites because if it minimal toxicity to marine fish. For the purpose of monitoring your process with cycling your aquarium testing nitrite will help you detect if the nitosonoma bacteria has established. The presence of nitrite will give you a false reading on hobby level nitrate test kits so I would not test nitrates until you have zero nitrites.

If your tests show zero nitrite ammonia, zero nitrite, and zero nitrate either your tests are off or guy need to increase the amount of ammonia drops you use.

After you have zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and detectably nitrates you can work on your pH and dkH.

Flow is mostly trial and error.

 

[WindowsTen]

Hello!

Nice looking start!

I'm sure others can help you with your circ pump and lighting question I just wanted to mention that in regard to your cycle, you would want to be measuring your ammonia levels through this time. Your alk and pH are not much of a concern at this point. If you need more info on doing a fishes cycle, please let us know!

Good luck!

Yes, thank you!! All of my kits say in multiple places to be measuring ammonia lol couldn't miss it if I tried :], I believe it's at about 1.8 ppm right now.
I took alk and pH mostly to practice the tests and to make sure the water was somewhere in the ballpark of what it should be. I'm glad it's looking good!

 

[WindowsTen]

Excellent job with the fishnets quick cycle. I’ve been using a similar process for over 30 years. IMHO it is the best way to cycle. My cycles average less than 3 days but I also use live sand and bacteria seeded rock.

One big tip. The only two things you need to test during the cycle are Ammonia, Nitrite (let the controversy begin), and Nitrate. Save the other tests for later. You want to see your Ammonia rise and drop to zero and you want to see detectable Nitrates with zero Nitrite. One of the controversies in the hobby is around testing nitrites because if it minimal toxicity to marine fish. For the purpose of monitoring your process with cycling your aquarium testing nitrite will help you detect if the nitosonoma bacteria has established. The presence of nitrite will give you a false reading on hobby level nitrate test kits so I would not test nitrates until you have zero nitrites.

If your tests show zero nitrite ammonia, zero nitrite, and zero nitrate either your tests are off or guy need to increase the amount of ammonia drops you use.

After you have zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and detectably nitrates you can work on your pH and dkH.

Flow is mostly trial and error.

Okay! This is tons of help, thank you! I tested Ammonia first and got like 0.1 ppm, then manually jumped it up to 1.8 ppm with the drops. I have nitrite and nitrate tests (I have the Red Sea Marine test kit), so I'll start some of those tomorrow. At what point should I start monitoring other elements?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Excellent job with the fishnets quick cycle. I’ve been using a similar process for over 30 years. IMHO it is the best way to cycle. My cycles average less than 3 days but I also use live sand and bacteria seeded rock.

One big tip. The only two things you need to test during the cycle are Ammonia, Nitrite (let the controversy begin), and Nitrate. Save the other tests for later. You want to see your Ammonia rise and drop to zero and you want to see detectable Nitrates with zero Nitrite. One of the controversies in the hobby is around testing nitrites because if it minimal toxicity to marine fish. For the purpose of monitoring your process with cycling your aquarium testing nitrite will help you detect if the nitosonoma bacteria has established. The presence of nitrite will give you a false reading on hobby level nitrate test kits so I would not test nitrates until you have zero nitrites.

If your tests show zero nitrite ammonia, zero nitrite, and zero nitrate either your tests are off or guy need to increase the amount of ammonia drops you use.

After you have zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and detectably nitrates you can work on your pH and dkH.

Flow is mostly trial and error.

People get bogged down in the nitrate and nitrite testing, none of it matters, especially given the inaccuracy of the tests. All that really matters is seeing ammonia at some level between 1 ppm and 2 ppm and watching it start to drop toward zero. Once that happens, one may wish to elevate it again toward 2 ppm and ensure it heads back toward zero in a day or so. Good to go….

There is no need to keep dumping in ammonia or bottled bacteria. Just time and ammonia headed toward zero.