Hammers and frogspawn not fully opening.

RPGLaz

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Hi all. My hammer and frogspawn are not fully opening after I fed them some polyp booster about 3 weeks ago. I was feeding the whole tank however a big chunk of it fell ok these two. Are they still ok ? They used to open up a lot more.
PH: 8.3
DKH: 9.9
CAL:530 it’s a little high but all my other corals are fine and growing.
MAG: 1290
NO3: 3.25
Ammonia:0
No2:0
Salinity is at 1.026
I have coraline algae growing on the back glass I also have two very healthy crocea clams along with a torch that fully opens and a couple of ricordias.
 

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Hi all. My hammer and frogspawn are not fully opening after I fed them some polyp booster about 3 weeks ago. I was feeding the whole tank however a big chunk of it fell ok these two. Are they still ok ? They used to open up a lot more.
PH: 8.3
DKH: 9.9
CAL:530 it’s a little high but all my other corals are fine and growing.
MAG: 1290
NO3: 3.25
Ammonia:0
No2:0
Salinity is at 1.026
I have coraline algae growing on the back glass I also have two very healthy crocea clams along with a torch that fully opens and a couple of ricordias.
Maybe try dip the two and see that way if possible - when you mean chunk do you mean rock or something like dead shrimp?
 

attiland

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AED9B02E-27EC-467A-A884-D95740523681.jpeg

Hi all. My hammer and frogspawn are not fully opening after I fed them some polyp booster about 3 weeks ago. I was feeding the whole tank however a big chunk of it fell ok these two. Are they still ok ? They used to open up a lot more.
PH: 8.3
DKH: 9.9
CAL:530 it’s a little high but all my other corals are fine and growing.
MAG: 1290
NO3: 3.25
Ammonia:0
No2:0
Salinity is at 1.026
I have coraline algae growing on the back glass I also have two very healthy crocea clams along with a torch that fully opens and a couple of ricordias.
What is po4?
that ca is high but hammer is very tolerant. that mg is low for your alk I think.

I have found better to leave the hammer just catch the odd floating mysis when you feed the fish but not feeding it directly.
I would also put the hammer away any strong currents.
 
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RPGLaz

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What is po4?
that ca is high but hammer is very tolerant. that mg is low for your alk I think.

I have found better to leave the hammer just catch the odd floating mysis when you feed the fish but not feeding it directly.
I would also put the hammer away any strong currents.
My po4 is 0.05
I also have them in a place where they get moderate to low flow. They loved it there till I fed them.
 
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RPGLaz

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Maybe try dip the two and see that way if possible - when you mean chunk do you mean rock or something like dead shrimp?
It was a chunk of polyp booster it’s almost like a thick paste or blend type deal.
 

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Are they in the same spot? Has the flow changed at all?

My hammer and frogspawn very greatly depending on the flow they receive. Frogspawn hates any flow and won’t open as much but hammer has grown accustom to high flow.
 
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RPGLaz

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Are they in the same spot? Has the flow changed at all?

My hammer and frogspawn very greatly depending on the flow they receive. Frogspawn hates any flow and won’t open as much but hammer has grown accustom to high flow.
They are on the exact same spot I dipped them and placed them back into the tank then noticed that my hammers tissue is breaking I’ll post a pic here.
 

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attiland

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My po4 is 0.05
I also have them in a place where they get moderate to low flow. They loved it there till I fed them.
That po4 is fine. Mine likes the same anyway. Is there anything else changed? Flow you mentioned.

bad feeding would upset it for a day or two but not weeks.
 
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RPGLaz

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That po4 is fine. Mine likes the same anyway. Is there anything else changed? Flow you mentioned.

bad feeding would upset it for a day or two but not weeks.
Flow has remained the same.
 

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Yep... There's something they're mad about. How new are the frags? If you dip, go the iodine route for 5 min. It's possible it's bacterial but given your parameters, nothing seems abnormally outside of range. Try not to disturb them more today. Also, have your phosphates, alk or nirates changed at all from 3 weeks ago?
 

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In the first photo both Hammer and Frogspawn looked fine. Healthy and maybe not as open as you had before.
Just because they were not opening-as-much was no need for alarm. Best to leave them alone and give them time to adjust and recover on their own (which you didn't do by dipping).

Dipping is only recommended if you see something seriously wrong (like jelly disease, or shedding tissue) , but not if they are not opening fully opening.
If you had some Polyp Booster clump on them, it probably would have been best just to give them a bit of stir or light power head dusting (in your tank). Turn them up side down and gentle shake (keeping under water)

You didn't specify what you dipped the hammer in and how long. Too long or too strong dip could cause damage.
It seems to me after dip things got worse.

Don't change any water parameters, or else you will possibly damage your other corals/clam/etc.

Exercise some patience and if they can recover, they will recover but it takes time.
3 weeks is hardly enough time for Euphyllia to acclimate. Sometimes it can take a couple of month, especially if they are not getting worse.
 
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RPGLaz

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Yep... There's something they're mad about. How new are the frags? If you dip, go the iodine route for 5 min. It's possible it's bacterial but given your parameters, nothing seems abnormally outside of range. Try not to disturb them more today. Also, have your phosphates, alk or nirates changed at all from 3 weeks ago?
My NO3 came down slowly from 5 to 3.2 because I want to work with lower NO3 for sps
 
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RPGLaz

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In the first photo both Hammer and Frogspawn looked fine. Healthy and maybe not as open as you had before.
Just because they were not opening-as-much was no need for alarm. Best to leave them alone and give them time to adjust and recover on their own (which you didn't do by dipping).

Dipping is only recommended if you see something seriously wrong (like jelly disease, or shedding tissue) , but not if they are not opening fully opening.
If you had some Polyp Booster clump on them, it probably would have been best just to give them a bit of stir or light power head dusting (in your tank). Turn them up side down and gentle shake (keeping under water)

You didn't specify what you dipped the hammer in and how long. Too long or too strong dip could cause damage.
It seems to me after dip things got worse.

Don't change any water parameters, or else you will possibly damage your other corals/clam/etc.

Exercise some patience and if they can recover, they will recover but it takes time.
3 weeks is hardly enough time for Euphyllia to acclimate. Sometimes it can take a couple of month, especially if they are not getting worse.
Wow tanks this is actually very helpful and very detailed. You seem to have a lot of knowledge. I want to expand mine as much as possible too
 

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Wow tanks this is actually very helpful and very detailed. You seem to have a lot of knowledge. I want to expand mine as much as possible too
Np.

One more tip. If you want Euphelia to open up. Stop changing your lighting (if you do). They will adapt slowly to almost any light (except No light).

My Euphylea used to be in MH LIghting 150W x 2 and 4 T5's, palce at the TOP under intense light and they did amazing. (as seen below from Photo years ago)
Kitchen90GalLPSTank-small.jpg

Grew so much I had to trim them running out of space. Made a few bucks trading them in for store credit.

I didn't feed them anything like some people recommend. (Sure they got some nutrients from fish poo)
Euphyllia eat light, and make their own food from the light. Cut back the Poly Lab booster before you get many other problems from poluting your tank.

Water quality needs to be decent but not perfect. Stable water parameters is important, like all corals.

Then one day I switched to LED/T5, removing the MH lights and it took ages (year++) for them to adjust.
Of course, they never grew as much under LED lighting.
I miss those days.

It's always best to give them less light at the start. The less light they get, the more they will open up to get more light.
Too much light can burn them and that can kill them, or have them receed for ages.

Adjusting light schedule drives them nuts.
You will notice that they will open up just before light come on and close just before lights go off. They get into a lighting cycle (like human bio-rythm for sleeping).
 
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RPGLaz

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Np.

One more tip. If you want Euphelia to open up. Stop changing your lighting (if you do). They will adapt slowly to almost any light (except No light).

My Euphylea used to be in MH LIghting 150W x 2 and 4 T5's, palce at the TOP under intense light and they did amazing. (as seen below from Photo years ago)
Kitchen90GalLPSTank-small.jpg

Grew so much I had to trim them running out of space. Made a few bucks trading them in for store credit.

I didn't feed them anything like some people recommend. (Sure they got some nutrients from fish poo)
Euphyllia eat light, and make their own food from the light. Cut back the Poly Lab booster before you get many other problems from poluting your tank.

Water quality needs to be decent but not perfect. Stable water parameters is important, like all corals.

Then one day I switched to LED/T5, removing the MH lights and it took ages (year++) for them to adjust.
Of course, they never grew as much under LED lighting.
I miss those days.

It's always best to give them less light at the start. The less light they get, the more they will open up to get more light.
Too much light can burn them and that can kill them, or have them receed for ages.

Adjusting light schedule drives them nuts.
You will notice that they will open up just before light come on and close just before lights go off. They get into a lighting cycle (like human bio-rythm for sleeping).
I’m running AI hydra 32HDs but I have kept them under the same light the whole time. Thank you so much for your advice. I am expanding my water keeping skills as much as I can to make sure my corals are happy and healthy.
 

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