How Will My Noo-Psyches Grow? (RETIRED)

kittenbritches

The Cat's Pajamas
View Badges
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
1,547
Reaction score
5,686
Location
Rocky Mountains
Rating - 0%
0   0   0

How Will My Noo-Psyches Grow?


I won two Noo-Psyche K7 V3 140 Watt LEDs in a giveaway on R2R and was asked to record my coral growth over a two-month period, updating this thread week-over-week in that time. This presented a unique opportunity, as I was planning to set up a 40-gallon breeder tank in my bedroom with primarily SPS corals. I upgraded from this tank to an RSR250 a few weeks back and decided that rather than swap out lights I am happy with, I would use the NPs on a brand new setup, recording corals from their first day in the tank.

I was not asked to do an unboxing video, provide a review of the lights, or endorse Noo-Psyche in any way. As such, this will be an unbiased, transparent experiment, full of my opinions and pulling no punches.

Impressions and Prejudices

My lights arrived in a nondescript brown cardboard box, taped to hell, with my last name scrawling across the back in black marker. DHL left it in the rain, but I was able to bring it in relatively quickly. The lights I had on my 40B, which I am still using on the RSR, are Maxspect Razor X5 150s, which are currently available from SaltwaterAquarium.com for $612.14 (+$60 if you want the Maxspect Connect ICV6 to be able to program and control your lights from a phone app). If you don't opt for the ICV6, there is an LCD controller on the side of the light, which is easy to program and use. Maxspect is also a company based in Hong Kong, but they’re obviously a more established brand. I share this information as my baseline for comparison. The Razor X5 has three (3) LED clusters with a total of 60 LEDs with four (4) controllable channels. The NPs have two (2) clusters and 40 LEDs per fixture with six (6) programmable channels. As such, I will have four (4) clusters and 80 LEDs with perhaps a broader light spectrum feeding my corals with that sweet, sweet light.

Noo-Psyche’s retail price per 140W fixture is $298 (+$70 for their wired controller with no wifi-connectivity or app). Out the door, not counting freight charges or discounts, you’re looking at the mark of the beast, $666. NP is essentially charging the same price as Maxspect, with a more rudimentary functionality and tedious manual programming. Additionally, the commercial invoice was affixed to the outside of the box, stating each fixture is worth $50. At the same retail price-point will their light spread and mixing-spectrum technology out-perform Maxspect?

Out of the Box

The packaging is simple, and all of the contents are well wrapped and otherwise protected. Buyer beware: there are no written assembly instructions included. If you’re a visual thinker, assembly is pretty simple, and it will only take a few minutes to get the brackets assembled and the claws attached to the fixtures. If you need step-by-step instructions, they have a quick assembly video on YouTube.

The fixture itself seems well-built and sturdy, but all of the screws are very short. I have trust issues, so I’m a little leery hanging 280 watts of electricity above a box of water. Additionally, the claw which connects the fixture to the mounting arm is made of plastic and connects to the mount with another disconcertingly small screw. Just one.

I don’t know who Rick is, but I bet he likes to party.

Rick.jpg


The two plastic bolts that secure each arm to the tank are a real cabrona to screw in. The holes aren’t threaded consistently, so twisting them by hand only got them in about ⅓ of the way -- even with my freakishly strong kung fu grip. I didn’t have a socket wrench large enough for the bolt heads, so I had to turn them, half-turn by agonizing half-turn, with channel locks.

Attaching the fixtures to the mounts was easy enough, and adjustments were a breeze thanks to my handy 25-year-old electric screwdriver.

With the lights securely (hopefully) mounted above my tank, I was pleasantly surprised. They look nice, and the branding on the front is much more discrete than online images show.

I mounted the lights 9.5” from the surface of the water and 10.5” apart.

Programming

On first impression, the controller feels like Prototype A. It feels cheap, is unlabeled, and overall just seems unfinished. It has a small LCD screen in the upper right corner, and although nothing on the display makes obvious sense, it is through navigating this menu that one programs their lights.

Said navigation is not at all intuitive but is better than programming with the buttons on the fixtures themselves. With the NP controller, you are able to set your light schedule and manually set each channel per your preferences, or you can choose one of their preset options: SPS, LPS, or SPS/LPS.

I opted to set my own schedule and light settings, which I may tweak as time goes on.

Below are the NP presets in action:

SPS.jpg


LPS.jpg


SPS-LPS.jpg


My light schedule and settings:

Channel AChannel BChannel CChannel DChannel EChannel F
TimeWhiteLight BlueBlueUVRedGreen & Blue
6:00:00 AM0%1%1%1%0%0%
7:00:00 AM1%10%10%3%0%10%
8:00:00 AM2%30%30%25%1%30%
9:00:00 AM5%80%80%50%2%80%
5:00:00 PM5%80%80%25%2%80%
7:00:00 PM2%30%30%5%1%30%
8:00:00 PM1%10%10%3%0%10%
9:00:00 PM0%0%1%1%0%0%

I know, I know...I am ancient and go to bed early!

I checked the PAR at 11 points in my tank based on where I will be placing corals.

KB's Custom Blend.jpg

  1. 550 (at the surface of the water)
  2. 323
  3. 260
  4. 303
  5. 184
  6. 181
  7. 249
  8. 71
  9. 60
  10. 210
  11. 188

The Build

For now, this is a HOB build, so it’s a pretty simple setup.
  • Aqueon 40B box
  • Marineland Emperor Bio-Wheel Power Filter (400 GPH)
  • Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6015s (2)
  • Macro Aqua M-50 Mini Hang-on External Protein Skimmer (not currently running)
  • 200 Watt Eheim Jager Heater
  • Inkbird 306-A
I decided to go with CaribSea Arag-Alive Hawaiian Black substrate, and am only using 20 pounds. I toyed with the idea of going bare bottom, but I’m really liking the way the black looks, and hope it will make my corals pop. I also have 10 pounds of premium live rock from KP Aquatics and 30 pounds of live rock from my LFS.

Livestock

Fish
  1. Banggai Cardinalfish (2)*
  2. Tomato Clownfish
  3. Firefish
  4. Magenta Dottyback
  5. Green Clown Goby

Clean-Up Crew
  1. Scarlet Legged Hermit Crabs (20)*
  2. Pincushion Urchins (3)*
  3. Red Mithrax Crab*
  4. Turbo Snails (5)*
  5. Dwarf Zebra/Orange & Black Hermit Crabs (5)*
  6. Any and all hitchhikers (at least a few brittle stars survived the journey, as well as a snail who has a teeny crab living on it and a couple of baby ceriths)*

The SPS Corals
  1. Pinkberry Table Acro
  2. Mary Poppins Acro (bleached in first week)
  3. Purple Plasma Stylo
  4. Forest Fire Digi
  5. Rainbow Monti
  6. GARF Bonsai
  7. Tyree Aequituberculata Cap Montipora
  8. Rainbow Pocillopora
  9. Jason Fox Enchanted Forest Birdsnest (was starting to bleach at the end of week one; moved back to RSR)

The LPS Corals
  1. Black Light Torch
  2. Stardust Chalice Coral
  3. Christmas Favia
  4. Acanthastrea echinata
  5. ORA® Micronesian Hammer Coral*
  6. Duncan

The Softies
  1. Lime Green Warty Corallimorph*
  2. Gorgonian Corals (2)*
  3. Pink Feather Duster
  4. Long Tip Anemone*
  5. Q3 Ultra Ricordea
  6. Fan Coral (my foxface was eating it in the RSR250)
  7. Green Kenya Tree*
  8. Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral*
*new livestock that was not previously in the RSR250

Let There Be Light

Once I got everything programmed and situated with the lights, I turned them on and left them for about an hour. At this time, the only corals in the tank were two gorgonians, the corallimorph, and the black light torch, in addition to the anemone and fan coral. Before leaving the room, I noted that the torch didn’t seem to pop, or “glow,” if you will, under these lights as much as they do with the Maxspect lights. To be fair, the lighting is also different in my bedroom than in the living room. I will have to judge when the sun goes down.

When I came back upstairs, the two gorgonians, which previously looked like plucked chickens with just a few polyps extended here and there, were all fluffy and happy! +1 for NP. I've noticed that even with yellow and orange lenses, photos under this light come out VERY blue.

Fluffy Gorgonians.jpg


Fast-forward a couple of hours, and I’d worked up enough energy to bring my frags upstairs and figure out where I’d like to place them. I brought my lens filters up and wanted to turn the lights to blues only to see how much my corals would pop.

I’ll be darned. Despite 10+ attempts, I cannot get any new settings to take. At one point pressing the preset button made the left and right fixtures alternate brightness and light settings. This controller is absolutely horrible. I’m a very logical, analytical person, and nothing about how this “controller” works is logical. I am so frustrated. The controller alone would make me not buy NP lights -- good thing I didn’t have to buy them. -100 for NP.

Additionally, the internal fans are quite loud and put off a burning electrical smell. Another NP owner also noticed the burning smell but says that it did go away after some time.

Buckle up, buttercup. Let’s see if the lights promote more coral growth. That’s why we’re here.

Day One

FTS.jpg


Bonsai.jpg


Forest Fire Digi.jpg


Green Birdsnest.jpg


Green Monti.jpg


Hammer.jpg


Mary Poppins.jpg


Pinkberry Table.jpg


Stylo.jpg



Results

Week One
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
kittenbritches

kittenbritches

The Cat's Pajamas
View Badges
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
1,547
Reaction score
5,686
Location
Rocky Mountains
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
What par meter did you use? Also, I assume the top par reading is 10" from the light? How about the bottom? From the looks of it, my par meter is similar to your readings. I'll only be able to know with the distance of the light to water surface.
I used the Apogee Quantum Flux MQ-200. The top PAR reading is right at the surface of the water — 9.5" from the light.
 
OP
OP
kittenbritches

kittenbritches

The Cat's Pajamas
View Badges
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
1,547
Reaction score
5,686
Location
Rocky Mountains
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
After giving myself a moment to stop being frustrated, I did a complete reset on the lights and reprogrammed my light blend. In trying to fuss with getting a second light option set up for blues-only, it wiped my customization and was stuck in an unphotographable spectrum. Sometimes you've just gotta wipe and start over again.

Here are some slightly better photos.

11A9138B-3E8B-4A1B-9F0C-3FBDDC90ADE7.jpeg


1E522479-0AEA-4050-9103-670D91F0250E.jpeg


5CF45C2A-A7B6-4D6F-BE27-B5FD623787FA.jpeg


90CCE848-6DCB-4966-BD7F-5807ACFF47C0.jpeg


C3002180-68E3-451D-B136-C5136D6A8542.jpeg


DD4A4ED1-1038-4973-B8F5-F3193582B0B8.jpeg


5ACCA6EF-4B8D-4F81-9D43-E993826BD2CA.jpeg


1946CF61-DBB9-4742-BC47-2AABC00E315D.jpeg


B555068F-31EC-4639-88FE-A67AA0815AC8.jpeg


 

SDK

Reef Diver
View Badges
Joined
Nov 2, 2016
Messages
1,495
Reaction score
3,165
Location
Shrewsbury
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
You should do well with this setup. I have had two K7’ V2’s on a 40B for going on two years, and can grow anything. I had to dial them down for a mixed reef. They were originally going to just be placeholders while I decided on a higher end pair of lights, but I have had no reason to upgrade.

I’m moving all over to 90 gallon tank over the next two weeks. The plan is to stick with the 2 K7’s for now along with an Orphek light bar. They are great lights for the money.
 

MaxTremors

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 20, 2021
Messages
3,625
Reaction score
6,213
Location
Boise
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I’m actually really impressed by this light so far. You’re absolutely right that the controller is confusing and absurdly unintuitive, they provide no instructions (at least none that are usable) on how to program it, their videos offer a little help, but it’s still way too convoluted and the opposite of user-friendly. That said, once you get them set, you don’t really have to mess with it. I’ve found that I really like the spectrum of the LPS setting, I was using an AI prime before, and my corals look better under the Noopsyche. I’m just a couple days, a lot of them are extending their polyps further and seem to really be liking the intensity and spectrum. We’ll see how it holds up over time. I, too had a really difficult time screwing the two nylon screws, but once I got them in, it does feel more secure than the AI Prime mounting arm. Also, I haven’t noticed that the fans are loud and no burning smell, the latter would be really disconcerting, hopefully it’ll go away. Nice, write up though.
 
OP
OP
kittenbritches

kittenbritches

The Cat's Pajamas
View Badges
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
1,547
Reaction score
5,686
Location
Rocky Mountains
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
We just got home from trick or treating and I expected to see the lights and tank winding down for the night. NOPE. They were still going full blast. I went into my settings once again and tapped the center button. The lights then jumped down to the correct intensity for the hour.

Now I'm laying in bed, mad doggin' the tank to make sure the lights are ramping down.

Mike Tyson Boxing GIF by SHOWTIME Sports


It does look really pretty.
 
Last edited:

Goaway

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 17, 2020
Messages
16,695
Reaction score
57,990
Location
Illinios
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
I have not had any issues with mine, setup, install, burn smells, breaks, cracks. I do want to secure them better. I don't like the idea of hanging lights. I don't care who does it :( Makes me very uncomfortable.

Anyhow back to par. I did a small map of my readings on sps setting. I think it's pretty close to what you took. Except the bottom. Not sure why I got such high numbers. My lights are 8 inches from water surface. Center number makes more sense as it is upped by the other 2 lights beside it. Perhaps? But the 240 is on sand bed at 26" below lights.

Once dialed in to match my old lights, the par is very much lower.
k3-95.jpg
 
OP
OP
kittenbritches

kittenbritches

The Cat's Pajamas
View Badges
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
1,547
Reaction score
5,686
Location
Rocky Mountains
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have not had any issues with mine, setup, install, burn smells, breaks, cracks. I do want to secure them better. I don't like the idea of hanging lights. I don't care who does it :( Makes me very uncomfortable.

Anyhow back to par. I did a small map of my readings on sps setting. I think it's pretty close to what you took. Except the bottom. Not sure why I got such high numbers. My lights are 8 inches from water surface. Center number makes more sense as it is upped by the other 2 lights beside it. Perhaps? But the 240 is on sand bed at 26" below lights.

Once dialed in to match my old lights, the par is very much lower.
k3-95.jpg
Your sandbed measurements look consistent with mine (7 & 10). My lower numbers are in alcoves or under little overhangs for the corals that need low light. :)
 

Woodyman

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
2,587
Reaction score
3,384
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0

How Will My Noo-Psyches Grow?


I won two Noo-Psyche K7 V3 140 Watt LEDs in a giveaway on R2R and was asked to record my coral growth over a two-month period, updating this thread week-over-week in that time. This presented a unique opportunity, as I was planning to set up a 40-gallon breeder tank in my bedroom with primarily SPS corals. I upgraded from this tank to an RSR250 a few weeks back and decided that rather than swap out lights I am happy with, I would use the NPs on a brand new setup, recording corals from their first day in the tank.

I was not asked to do an unboxing video, provide a review of the lights, or endorse Noo-Psyche in any way. As such, this will be an unbiased, transparent experiment, full of my opinions and pulling no punches.

Impressions and Prejudices

My lights arrived in a nondescript brown cardboard box, taped to hell, with my last name scrawling across the back in black marker. DHL left it in the rain, but I was able to bring it in relatively quickly. The lights I had on my 40B, which I am still using on the RSR, are Maxspect Razor X5 150s, which are currently available from SaltwaterAquarium.com for $612.14 (+$60 if you want the Maxspect Connect ICV6 to be able to program and control your lights from a phone app). If you don't opt for the ICV6, there is an LCD controller on the side of the light, which is easy to program and use. Maxspect is also a company based in Hong Kong, but they’re obviously a more established brand. I share this information as my baseline for comparison. The Razor X5 has three (3) LED clusters with a total of 60 LEDs with four (4) controllable channels. The NPs have two (2) clusters and 40 LEDs per fixture with six (6) programmable channels. As such, I will have four (4) clusters and 80 LEDs with perhaps a broader light spectrum feeding my corals with that sweet, sweet light.

Noo-Psyche’s retail price per 140W fixture is $298 (+$70 for their wired controller with no wifi-connectivity or app). Out the door, not counting freight charges or discounts, you’re looking at the mark of the beast, $666. NP is essentially charging the same price as Maxspect, with a more rudimentary functionality and tedious manual programming. Additionally, the commercial invoice was affixed to the outside of the box, stating each fixture is worth $50. At the same retail price-point will their light spread, spectrum, and mixing-spectrum technology out-perform Maxspect?

Out of the Box

The packaging is simple, and all of the contents are well wrapped and otherwise protected. Buyer beware: there are no written assembly instructions included. If you’re a visual thinker, assembly is pretty simple, and it will only take a few minutes to get the brackets assembled and the claws attached to the fixtures. If you need step-by-step instructions, they have a quick assembly video on YouTube.

The fixture itself seems well-built and sturdy, but all of the screws are very short. I have trust issues, so I’m a little leery hanging 280 watts of electricity above a box of water. Additionally, the claw which connects the fixture to the mounting arm is made of plastic and connects to the mount with another disconcertingly small screw. Just one.

I don’t know who Rick is, but I bet he likes to party.

Rick.jpg


The two plastic bolts that secure each arm to the tank are a real cabrona to screw in. The holes aren’t threaded consistently, so twisting them by hand only got them in about ⅓ of the way -- even with my freakishly strong kung fu grip. I didn’t have a socket wrench large enough for the bolt heads, so I had to turn them, half-turn by agonizing half-turn, with channel locks.

Attaching the fixtures to the mounts was easy enough, and adjustments were a breeze thanks to my handy 25-year-old electric screwdriver.

With the lights securely (hopefully) mounted above my tank, I was pleasantly surprised. They look nice, and the branding on the front is much more discrete than online images show.

I mounted the lights 9.5” from the surface of the water and 10.5” apart.

Programming

On first impression, the controller feels like Prototype A. It feels cheap, is unlabeled, and overall just seems unfinished. It has a small LCD screen in the upper right corner, and although nothing on the display makes obvious sense, it is through navigating this menu that one programs their lights.

Said navigation is not at all intuitive but is better than programming with the buttons on the fixtures themselves. With the NP controller, you are able to set your light schedule and manually set each channel per your preferences, or you can choose one of their preset options: SPS, LPS, or SPS/LPS.

I opted to set my own schedule and light settings, which I may tweak as time goes on.

Below are the NP presets in action:

SPS.jpg


LPS.jpg


SPS-LPS.jpg


My light schedule and settings:

Channel AChannel BChannel CChannel DChannel EChannel F
TimeWhiteLight BlueBlueUVRedGreen & Blue
6:00:00 AM0%1%1%1%0%0%
7:00:00 AM1%10%10%3%0%10%
8:00:00 AM2%30%30%25%1%30%
9:00:00 AM5%80%80%50%2%80%
5:00:00 PM5%80%80%25%2%80%
7:00:00 PM2%30%30%5%1%30%
8:00:00 PM1%10%10%3%0%10%
9:00:00 PM0%0%1%1%0%0%

I know, I know...I am ancient and go to bed early!

I checked the PAR at 11 points in my tank based on where I will be placing corals.

KB's Custom Blend.jpg's Custom Blend.jpg

  1. 550 (at the surface of the water)
  2. 323
  3. 260
  4. 303
  5. 184
  6. 181
  7. 249
  8. 71
  9. 60
  10. 210
  11. 188

The Build

For now, this is a HOB build, so it’s a pretty simple setup.
  • Aqueon 40B box
  • Marineland Emperor Bio-Wheel Power Filter (400 GPH)
  • Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6015s (2)
  • Macro Aqua M-50 Mini Hang-on External Protein Skimmer (not currently running)
  • 200 Watt Eheim Jager Heater
  • Inkbird 306-A
I decided to go with CaribSea Arag-Alive Hawaiian Black substrate, and am only using 20 pounds. I toyed with the idea of going bare bottom, but I’m really liking the way the black looks, and hope it will make my corals pop. I also have 10 pounds of premium live rock from KP Aquatics and 30 pounds of live rock from my LFS.

Livestock

Fish
  1. Banggai Cardinalfish (2)*
  2. TBD

Clean-Up Crew
  1. Scarlet Legged Hermit Crabs (20)*
  2. Pincushion Urchins (3)*
  3. Red Mithrax Crab*
  4. Any and all hitchhikers (at least a few brittle stars survived the journey, as well as a snail who has a teeny crab living on it and a couple of baby ceriths)*

The SPS Corals
  1. Pinkberry Table Acro
  2. Mary Poppins Acro
  3. Purple Plasma Stylo
  4. Forest Fire Digi
  5. Rainbow Monti
  6. GARF Bonsai
  7. Tyree Aequituberculata Cap Montipora
  8. Rainbow Pocillopora
  9. Jason Fox Enchanted Forest Birdsnest

The LPS Corals
  1. Black Light Torch
  2. Stardust Chalice Coral
  3. Christmas Favia
  4. Acanthastrea echinata

The Softies
  1. Lime Green Warty Corallimorph*
  2. Gorgonian Corals (2)*
  3. Pink Feather Duster
  4. Long Tip Anemone*
  5. Q3 Ultra Ricordea
  6. Fan Coral (my foxface was eating it in the RSR250)
*new livestock that was not previously in the RSR250

Let There Be Light

Once I got everything programmed and situated with the lights, I turned them on and left them for about an hour. At this time, the only corals in the tank were two gorgonians, the corallimorph, and the black light torch, in addition to the anemone and fan coral. Before leaving the room, I noted that the torch didn’t seem to pop, or “glow,” if you will, under these lights as much as they do with the Maxspect lights. To be fair, the lighting is also different in my bedroom than in the living room. I will have to judge when the sun goes down.

When I came back upstairs, the two gorgonians, which previously looked like plucked chickens with just a few polyps extended here and there, were all fluffy and happy! +1 for NP. I've noticed that even with yellow and orange lenses, photos under this light come out VERY blue.

Fluffy Gorgonians.jpg


Fast-forward a couple of hours, and I’d worked up enough energy to bring my frags upstairs and figure out where I’d like to place them. I brought my lens filters up and wanted to turn the lights to blues only to see how much my corals would pop.

I’ll be darned. Despite 10+ attempts, I cannot get any new settings to take. At one point pressing the preset button made the left and right fixtures alternate brightness and light settings. This controller is absolutely horrible. I’m a very logical, analytical person, and nothing about how this “controller” works is logical. I am so frustrated. The controller alone would make me not buy NP lights -- good thing I didn’t have to buy them. -100 for NP.

Additionally, the internal fans are quite loud and put off a burning electrical smell. Another NP owner also noticed the burning smell but says that it did go away after some time.

Buckle up, buttercup. Let’s see if the lights promote more coral growth. That’s why we’re here.

Day One

FTS.jpg


Bonsai.jpg


Forest Fire Digi.jpg


Green Birdsnest.jpg


Green Monti.jpg


Hammer.jpg


Mary Poppins.jpg


Pinkberry Table.jpg


Stylo.jpg


Great write up. I actually enjoyed reading this initial review, informative, sarcastic, and well written.
 

Goaway

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 17, 2020
Messages
16,695
Reaction score
57,990
Location
Illinios
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Your sandbed measurements look consistent with mine (7 & 10). My lower numbers are in alcoves or under little overhangs for the corals that need low light. :)
You are the only other with a par meter. We must unit and slaughter the beast! We're going to get eaten though....

Serious note though. I am seeing a lot of love from my corals after the switch. My acans have new heads, dead goniopora is showing life. My foxface assault is over. Hoping for much recovery.
 

Goaway

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 17, 2020
Messages
16,695
Reaction score
57,990
Location
Illinios
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Great write up. I actually enjoyed reading this initial review, informative, sarcastic, and well written.
She is impressive. I love KB. I wish I was 1/3 as good as her writing things....

Edit: it's probably all those stephen king novels she read...
 

Woodyman

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
2,587
Reaction score
3,384
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
She is impressive. I love KB. I wish I was 1/3 as good as her writing things....

Edit: it's probably all those stephen king novels she read...
I'm no writer myself, I don't try to be either.
 

Reefing threads: Do you wear gear from reef brands?

  • I wear reef gear everywhere.

    Votes: 17 14.7%
  • I wear reef gear primarily at fish events and my LFS.

    Votes: 7 6.0%
  • I wear reef gear primarily for water changes and tank maintenance.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I wear reef gear primarily to relax where I live.

    Votes: 18 15.5%
  • I don’t wear gear from reef brands.

    Votes: 66 56.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 8 6.9%
Back
Top