Hyposalinity

chicago

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ok.. how about an about. the HYPO DT project continues. I have had my DT in hypo now since May 6th 2017. Almost a year.
I would note that the current fish I have almost all have been in the HYPO for this 11 months. So long term HYPO can be done.
Here is a list of the fish that were able to withstand the 11 months and are doing very nicely.

Pair of Scribble Angels
Bandit Angel
Regal Angel
Splendid tail wrasse
laboute Wrasse (one made it one did not make it )
Lineatus Wrasse (one made one did not )
Pair of clowns
Flangfin Goldflake Hybrid Pair
Blue line Angel
Yellow Corris Pair
Radiant Wrasse Pair

Following did not make it along the way. I do not attribute the HYPO to their death. I think I had some bacterial infections that they succumbed to. Then again perhaps some did not adjust to long term

Roseband wrasse
Maze Angel
laboute
Lineatutus
Bandit
Conspic Angel
black clown

I believe I lost those to perhaps intestinal worms and / or secondary infections. I say this because a few weeks back I did a Prazi treatment and General cure treatment and the fish seem to be doing nicely and active.

Another note. during the summer of 2016 when I started to raise it back up... some ick did keep back up. I am unsure if this was from not holding the 1.009 long enough or from putting in additional fish that did not go through a full QT treatment. I did add fish along the way of the past 10 months.. I started the hypo again back up in the summer after losing a fish to ick again. I am starting to raise the tank back up slowly again and can report more if anyone wishes to hear.
 

Cabinetman

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I'm interested to hear how you made out. My560 gallon tank full of monster tangs has been in hypo for the last 2 weeks or so. Finally over the amonia spikes... wondering how you made out.
 

chicago

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ok. to answer your question. the main tank DT, that was in hypo is still in hypo.. it has now been over a year.. in fact its since May 6th 2016. I am sure I could leave it that way and the current fish I have in there will be fine. Yesterday I lost a new fish.. juv Gold Flake that was a recent addition from two months ago. he was doing fine and all. I have some new thoughts on Hypo. I notice that they tend to stay fat. I really do not know how to explain it. I also think that some of the fish. perhaps because of lack of something in the water have issues digesting some foods and that might have contributed to the latest death. I would suggest in hypo to make sure not to feed large piece of food. I cannot confirm that there is a relationship between the losses I had in hypo and feeding large pieces of krill or shrimp but there did seam to be bit of correlation. Also, my salinity level dropped last week and that could have contributed to the loss of the gold flake. I dosed some alk and I think that changed some things. So ..

1. I would not add to much alk. This does not mean to let the ph fall to low. I do water changes at 1.010 and that was fine. Again, just my two cents worth
2. Fish can live in hypo for long periods of time. The following fish have lived in hypo for over a year.
Pair of scribbles
Bandit Angel
Lineatus .. did lose one of the pair.
Rhomboid ..did lose one of the pair
Goldflake
Radiant Wrasse
Yellow Wrasse
Pair of Regal Angels
Imperator Angel
Pin Tail wrasse
Maze Angel
and others
Personifer Angel
and many others.
3. Wrasses had more issues than angels.
4. I did not have tangs in the Hypo. Tried to stay away from them. I did however, add a trio of purple tangs. Two made it for the last 8 weeks and are doing fine. Lose of the third I cannot say was from the hypo.
5. I think in hypo we have other issues of infections and fin rot I have seen. I could post pics if need be.

While many made it fine. I do not recommend this long period of time. Too many of my fish reacted differently. I do suggest it as a means to resolve issues but do so under the guidelines of this post and others and take caution on the Spikes when started. Bring back up slowly.
 

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Hyposalinity: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) and gill flukes.

Treat for 30 consecutive days, and during that time the SG must always remain at 1.009. If it inches up even slightly, the 30 day clock restarts. ult is an effective pH buffer. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level.
Hi Humblefish. Would like to clarify on specific gravity levels as also asked by others. I have seen the youtube link under R2R youtube channel on hyposalinity which states using SG if 1.010 to 1.013?
Also, what are your thoughts on long term effect of hyposalinity (excess of 10 weeks pr a year for instance. I mean in FOWLR system, due to the benefits of hypo, what not just keep it at that level. I've read usual respond that it is detrimental to fish health, but without much elaboration. A reputable LFS runs hypo in their holding tank and i have bought butterfly from him that was in hypo for over 5 months looking healthy
 
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Humblefish

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Hi Humblefish. Would like to clarify on specific gravity levels as also asked by others. I have seen the youtube link under R2R youtube channel on hyposalinity which states using SG if 1.010 to 1.013?
Also, what are your thoughts on long term effect of hyposalinity (excess of 10 weeks pr a year for instance. I mean in FOWLR system, due to the benefits of hypo, what not just keep it at that level. I've read usual respond that it is detrimental to fish health, but without much elaboration. A reputable LFS runs hypo in their holding tank and i have bought butterfly from him that was in hypo for over 5 months looking healthy

Hypo needs to be maintained at 1.009 in order to have a chance at 100% ich eradication.

I don't believe any studies have been done regarding the long-term effects of hyposalinity. However, it is not a cure-all and other diseases it does not treat (velvet, brook, bacterial infections) can slip through the cracks.
 

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my skimmer did work.. the bubbles will be slightly larger and less dense. i also kept my uv going..
 

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Had my Orange Shoulder in hypo (1.009) for the last 6 days for Prazi resistant flukes. It appears they are gone and the fish is looking much better.

What's the best way to know they are truly gone? Should I bring him back to 1.025 in the QT and observe for another few days or do you think the flukes and their eggs are definitely dead and I could just acclimate him to the DT?

Also, What's the best way to bring the fish back to 1.025? In the QT raising salinity over some amount of time or should I just do an acclimation to the DT over 30 minutes or so and get his new life in there started already?
 
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Humblefish

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What's the best way to know they are truly gone? Should I bring him back to 1.025 in the QT and observe for another few days or do you think the flukes and their eggs are definitely dead and I could just acclimate him to the DT?

Also, What's the best way to bring the fish back to 1.025? In the QT raising salinity over some amount of time or should I just do an acclimation to the DT over 30 minutes or so and get his new life in there started already?

You want to go very slowly raising salinity on a fish. Personally, I would top off using SW until SG is back @ 1.025.

The best way to check for flukes is to perform a FW dip in another week or two.
 

andys

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Hello All

Well I have brought my salinity down to 1.009 as of yesterday evening. took 3 days total. 300 gal system volume. fish are tangs, angels, wrasse's, and several different other small fish
everyone seams to be doing fine but what i have noticed everyone is slow, doesn't move around much. the goldfake and flagfin angels look bloated but still eating. am I seeing normal signs ?

Thanks
 
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Humblefish

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everyone seams to be doing fine but what i have noticed everyone is slow, doesn't move around much. the goldfake and flagfin angels look bloated but still eating. am I seeing normal signs ?

I don't have much experience with hypo, but lethargy and fish being bloated doesn't seem right to me.

I believe @4FordFamily has experience using hypo.
 

Cabinetman

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Are you watching for ammonia ? If not get one of those seachem ammonia badges and if it starts to turn from the yellow safe get on it cause i’ve done exactly what you were doing and if any ammonia gets in the water you will start losing fish fast. I almost think that the lower salinity means that lower levels of ammonia are more toxic but I have no scientific data to back this up only experience.
 

chicago

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Morning

you really need to watch for amonia on a large tank.. i went through this.. i also had some bloating. and some did not make it.. what is your amonia level at?
 

Cabinetman

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Going to hypo in a display in 3 days is going to cause problems with ammonia I’ll guarantee. If that badge even turns slightly green you better be doing major water changes. You would have been better off to use cuprimine in my opinion. Add it super slow over a few weeks. Cuprisorb removes if
 

4FordFamily

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I don't have much experience with hypo, but lethargy and fish being bloated doesn't seem right to me.

I believe @4FordFamily has experience using hypo.
Actually, my angels, namely my pair of regals, did become sluggish and lethargic during hypo. Bloating, I don’t that. I’m not a fan of TTM as I have personally encountered strains of ich that are resistant to it and of course we know it doesn’t work with velvet.
 

chicago

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please look at my concerns and discussions on hypo of a full DT. Have some Seachem on hand to off set the amonia spikes. Remember that it only works as a emergency basis giving the system 24 hours to adjust and for you to do a water change. Mine spiked because I left a lot of the live rock in that was covered with turf algea.. the good news is the Hypo will kill the turf after a few weeks.
 

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I should of added. The display is new system. I cycled the new system while the fish were in the old tank in a cupermine treatment. They broke out again after the transfer. So the sand is new the rock is new. Ammonia is zero. Like i said the fish just seam a bit lethargic
 

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