Ideal Alk level relative to nitrates (nutrients)

[salty joe]

That is the plan, i will leave it lit on one side from now and see where N will go.

Oh, I thought it had been one sided for awhile.

 

[cednet]

Your alk seems kinda low to me. I keep mine around 9 because I’ve noticed that’s when my corals open and look the best. I don’t think there is a magic number. Just pay attention to when they look the best then try to keep the levels at that point, regardless of what the numbers are. You will drive yourself crazy chasing numbers. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Lovefish77]

Oh, I thought it had been one sided for awhile.

I think it was very recent coinciding with my slight bump in N to 1ppm

 

[Lovefish77]

Your alk seems kinda low to me. I keep mine around 9 because I’ve noticed that’s when my corals open and look the best. I don’t think there is a magic number. Just pay attention to when they look the best then try to keep the levels at that point, regardless of what the numbers are. You will drive yourself crazy chasing numbers. Just my 2 cents.

Ok I can raise my alk, but if my acro dies you will bring me another one?
Right now scared to do anything..like walking on egg shells lol

 

[Brandon McHenry]

To address your original question, I don’t think you are going to find any set relationship between nutrients and Alk. In today’s reefing hobby there are just too many people running too many combinations of nutrients, alkalinity and other parameters. To give you an idea, I run my reef at anywhere between 0-0.2 ppm NO3 (clear to just barely pink on Salifert) and 0-0.03 ppm PO4 (Hanna ULR Phosphorus) with an alkalinity of 7.4-7.6. This is what works for me and I’ve attached a picture so you can see what I’m working with. Honestly, if you haven’t been messing around with GFO, organic carbon, bio pellets or any other aggressive nutrient removal techniques I would be looking for an alkalinity swing. In my experiences the only time I’ve had burnt/dead tips that get covered by algae are with alkalinity swings. How often do you check your alkalinity?

 

[Lovefish77]

To address your original question, I don’t think you are going to find any set relationship between nutrients and Alk. In today’s reefing hobby there are just too many people running too many combinations of nutrients, alkalinity and other parameters. To give you an idea, I run my reef at anywhere between 0-0.2 ppm NO3 (clear to just barely pink on Salifert) and 0-0.03 ppm PO4 (Hanna ULR Phosphorus) with an alkalinity of 7.4-7.6. This is what works for me and I’ve attached a picture so you can see what I’m working with. Honestly, if you haven’t been messing around with GFO, organic carbon, bio pellets or any other aggressive nutrient removal techniques I would be looking for an alkalinity swing. In my experiences the only time I’ve had burnt/dead tips that get covered by algae are with alkalinity swings. How often do you check your alkalinity?

I usually measure weekly but I am dosing the same amount everyday. I check regularly on containers to make sure liquid is being dispensed regularly. I rarely make adjustments to alk dosing. Thoughts?

 

[BurgerFish]

0 nitrates + 12alk killed all my sps in 1-2 months. I'll reduce it to 8.

 

[cednet]

Ok I can raise my alk, but if my acro dies you will bring me another one?
Right now scared to do anything..like walking on egg shells lol

That was my point. If your stuff looks good don’t touch anything.

 

[Dr. Jim]

To address your original question, I don’t think you are going to find any set relationship between nutrients and Alk. In today’s reefing hobby there are just too many people running too many combinations of nutrients, alkalinity and other parameters. To give you an idea, I run my reef at anywhere between 0-0.2 ppm NO3 (clear to just barely pink on Salifert) and 0-0.03 ppm PO4 (Hanna ULR Phosphorus) with an alkalinity of 7.4-7.6. This is what works for me and I’ve attached a picture so you can see what I’m working with. Honestly, if you haven’t been messing around with GFO, organic carbon, bio pellets or any other aggressive nutrient removal techniques I would be looking for an alkalinity swing. In my experiences the only time I’ve had burnt/dead tips that get covered by algae are with alkalinity swings. How often do you check your alkalinity?

I agree that alk swings are one of the more common causes of white tips (along with high alk and low nutrients). Just wondering what you would consider a dangerous alk swing? (more than 0.5/24 hrs? ....or less?)

 

[Brandon McHenry]

I usually measure weekly but I am dosing the same amount everyday. I check regularly on containers to make sure liquid is being dispensed regularly. I rarely make adjustments to alk dosing. Thoughts?

Are you using a dosing pump? And how many increments per day? Not saying this is necessary but if you test more frequently you may see more variations. You could’ve had a doser malfunction and spiked your Alk and never notice if you didn’t test until the next week.

 

[Brandon McHenry]

I agree that alk swings are one of the more common causes of white tips (along with high alk and low nutrients). Just wondering what you would consider a dangerous alk swing? (more than 0.5/24 hrs? ....or less?)

I like to avoid over 0.5 if I can. My take fluctuates about 0.4 every day even with 24 hour dosing just based on consumption. But every tank is different and some can handle changes better than others.

 

[Lovefish77]

@ Brandon
Yes I use a dosing pump. Alk dosing is divided into 4 increments and are al done on reverse photo period cycle (when display lights are out). Reason is I use soda ash which I think raises ph a bit so I dose when tank is not in photosynthesis phase (lower cycle of ph in the day).

 

[Lovefish77]

I like to avoid over 0.5 if I can. My take fluctuates about 0.4 every day even with 24 hour dosing just based on consumption. But every tank is different and some can handle changes better than others.

So what do you recommend timing to calculate fluctuations? Measure before lights turn on (low end) and middle of photo period (high end)?
Let me know
Thanks

 

[Brandon McHenry]

@ Brandon
Yes I use a dosing pump. Alk dosing is divided into 4 increments and are al done on reverse photo period cycle (when display lights are out). Reason is I use soda ash which I think raises ph a bit so I dose when tank is not in photosynthesis phase (lower cycle of ph in the day).

So what do you recommend timing to calculate fluctuations? Measure before lights turn on (low end) and middle of photo period (high end)?
Let me know
Thanks

I always like to dose 24 times per day, I feel it helps to minimize any fluctuations. In most tanks (not all) more alkalinity consumption happens during the day when the lights are on and less at night. This gives a value opposite to pH (low Alk and high pH during the day, and high Alk and low pH at night). If you are dosing only at night you may be creating a larger swing by raising it all the way up at night and then having the corals use up everything during the day. Without knowing your system you could potentially be introducing some pretty big swings. The only way to know that would be to check a few times during the day. I checked right before my lights came on and about and hour or two after and I found out that my Alk goes from 7.8 in the morning to about 7.4 at night.

 

[Noldi76]

Thanks! If algae is growing on the tips that sounds like burnt tips rather than growing tips. I do agree that it sounds like your alk is in a safe range.

Refractometers need to be claibrated with a 35 ppt (1.026 sg) solution, not RODI. Some manufacturers have instructions that say to use RODI. This is incorrect. All refractometers should only be calibrated with 35 ppt solution, not RODI. It can make a difference in some cases.

I am not saying thats your cause for sure, but it wouldnt hurt to recalibrate with a proper solution and see if it makes a difference. Randy has a nice recipe here

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/rhf/index.htm

I agree with this. Using calibrating solution makes more sense as it is closer to the target salinity we are looking for with less margin for error.

 

[Reefahholic]

To address your original question, I don’t think you are going to find any set relationship between nutrients and Alk. In today’s reefing hobby there are just too many people running too many combinations of nutrients, alkalinity and other parameters. To give you an idea, I run my reef at anywhere between 0-0.2 ppm NO3 (clear to just barely pink on Salifert) and 0-0.03 ppm PO4 (Hanna ULR Phosphorus) with an alkalinity of 7.4-7.6. This is what works for me and I’ve attached a picture so you can see what I’m working with. Honestly, if you haven’t been messing around with GFO, organic carbon, bio pellets or any other aggressive nutrient removal techniques I would be looking for an alkalinity swing. In my experiences the only time I’ve had burnt/dead tips that get covered by algae are with alkalinity swings. How often do you check your alkalinity?

That is a beautiful reef. You have some strong lighting blanketing that tank. I can see it in the corals and especially that green Slimer. Are you sitting at 350-400+?

 

[Brandon McHenry]

I agree with this. Using calibrating solution makes more sense as it is closer to the target salinity we are looking for with less margin for error.

I also agree very much with this. You should get some calibration solution (I use BRS) and double check your salinity.

That is a beautiful reef. You have some strong lighting blanketing that tank. I can see it in the corals and especially that green Slimer. Are you sitting at 350-400+?

Thank you! It’s anywhere between 350-550 throughout the tank. And that is actually closer to a frog skin acro. It didn’t have a name when I got it but I think it’s similar to the one from ORA.

 

[Aquanaut WA]

Hi everyone,
I am trying to figure out the ideal level of nitrates (and nutrients in general) vs alk in my reef tank that is ideal for sps and acropora.
So basically like a grid;
-for 1-3ppm nitrates > alk of say 8 to 8.5
-for less than 1ppm nitrates > alk of 7.5 to 8

I have few sps and a few acros including big acro colony ; the acro is starting to have a hair of brown buildup on the tips that were growing and have perfectly white tips a few days ago. Another tell tale sign is another acro that is has been turning a bit whitish at the tip (pics to follow).
I know there are some rules"
- like never let your alk go above 8 if you run a very low nutrient system with zero nitrates or so.
- the higher the light the higher the nutrients you need to have in the tank

So my tank is heavily loaded and i was never able to register any nitrates that is why i keep alk below 8. Over the past few weeks i have been adding a soap of acro power and red sea AB+ like 4 mm in total daily. In addition to that i add some reef roids daily. After all that effort i was able to bump nitrates to 1 ppm.
Latest tests today:
Nitrates 1 ppm (salifert)
Alk (7.8-8dkh) (using Salifert as well)
I run high lights (reefbreeders) and the big acro colony has been sitting at like 380-400 par (of course acclimated gradually to that level).

Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks a lot

Every SPS I had DIED below 6ppm nitrate and .12 ppm Phos4. 6 month later and new corals all Alk burn >8.0. I kept SPS for decades before upgrade and now its a nightmare. Hell with ULNS Im going higher nutrient.

 

[Lovefish77]

Every SPS I had DIED below 6ppm nitrate and .12 ppm Phos4. 6 month later and new corals all Alk burn >8.0. I kept SPS for decades before upgrade and now its a nightmare. Hell with ULNS Im going higher nutrient.

That was my plan to raise nutrients but everytime I try to do so my sps dies...hard to raise nitrates in my system. Seems I need to do it ayp and r slow, could be affecting the delicate balance of bacteria in the tank and playing with that could be impacting sps and acros.

 

[Lovefish77]

Update: at 2.5ppm nitrates the small acro checked out. Seems that my tank does not like any nitrates!!