Leopard wrasse question

4FordFamily

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Looks like some fin rot and tail is split
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It could be an infection, or damage from fighting. It’s not pronounced enough to convince me to treat it yet, has it gradually or suddenly gotten worse?

Have you seen any chasing/biting?
 
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CoralClasher

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It could be an infection, or damage from fighting. It’s not pronounced enough to convince me to treat it yet, has it gradually or suddenly gotten worse?

Have you seen any chasing/biting?
Today his eye looks the same maybe a little better but the tail split has a red tint now. Just transferred them into a new QT with no meds should I still wait and see if it gets worse or use E.M. Or start the second round of GC?
 

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Today his eye looks the same maybe a little better but the tail split has a red tint now. Just transferred them into a new QT with no meds should I still wait and see if it gets worse or use E.M. Or start the second round of GC?
General cure won’t help with the infection but if you’re due for it anyway it isn’t likely to hurt anything. I’d observe and if it worsens any more treat with antibiotics.
 

GeauxLSU

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I have had my Leopard wrasse for a couple years now and they 100% need deep sand beds. Plus half the fun of having that fish is watching her bury herself into the sand!

Make sure you have a healthy pod population also, they love grazing throughout the day.

This last Tuesday was my birthday my wife surprised me with three new fish!! I'm not sure if they are a good addition to my tank? I have a 120 gallon reef with a 55 gallon refugium. No sand in the DT is what I'm wondering about? Do leopard wrasses need sand? And will they get along with the other fishes? Fox face, purple tang, yellow tang, powder brown tang, three clown fish, two red stoplight Cardinal, splendid dotty back, blenny and a six line wrasse.
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OrionN

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Male Black Leopard are uniquely beautiful fish. IMO, the best of the Leopards. They do need sand bed. A afraid Crush coral is too coarse for them long term. Nothing wrong with the Green Leopard but IMO, in the look department, Black Leopard got the market cornered.
BlackLeopardWrasse2019041801.jpg


BlackLeopardWrasse2019070910Male.jpg


MeleagrisLeopard2019062402.jpg
 
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CoralClasher

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Male Black Leopard are uniquely beautiful fish. IMO, the best of the Leopards. They do need sand bed. A afraid Crush coral is too coarse for them long term. Nothing wrong with the Green Leopard but IMO, in the look department, Black Leopard got the market cornered.
BlackLeopardWrasse2019041801.jpg


BlackLeopardWrasse2019070910Male.jpg


MeleagrisLeopard2019062402.jpg
Thanks for that picture I can see that my black one is definitely missing some of the bottom fin.
 

Jase4224

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Kevin Cohen from Live Aquaria recently said in a Reefbuilders vlog that leopards don’t need sand and will just sleep in the rocks. I’m not purposely advising against everyone else here, I just figure he is a good source of info and I thought it was interesting.
 

OrionN

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Just because they don’t have sand to sleep in they have to sleep in rock. This does not make it natural for them. How they do long term is the question not that they can sleep out of the sand and not died after a few day due to short of sleep.
I have not seen this, but looking at my wrasse I know that Leopard naturally sleep in the sand and keeping them in sand-less condition is unnatural
 
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CoralClasher

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General cure won’t help with the infection but if you’re due for it anyway it isn’t likely to hurt anything. I’d observe and if it worsens any more treat with antibiotics.
He is not looking any better and now looks like he is trying to scrape his eye on the filter. Fins are looking worse.
 

4FordFamily

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Scratching that much makes me worry about velvet, perhaps ich. If I recall you’ve not tested with anything that’ll eradicate either. Unfortunately wrasse can harbor these parasites without any symptoms and often they are phenpmenal “Typhoid Marys” for them as a result. Copper power at 1.75 for 14 days then transfer to a completely sterile QT may be a good choice since we’ve likely ruled out flukes...
 
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CoralClasher

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Scratching that much makes me worry about velvet, perhaps ich. If I recall you’ve not tested with anything that’ll eradicate either. Unfortunately wrasse can harbor these parasites without any symptoms and often they are phenpmenal “Typhoid Marys” for them as a result. Copper power at 1.75 for 14 days then transfer to a completely sterile QT may be a good choice since we’ve likely ruled out flukes...
The first day I got them they went in half dose ionic copper two days then transfer to new Qt no copper three days transferred new QT started GC the this last Saturday FW dip five minutes transferred new QT and second round GC. I definitely don't want ich or velvet again.
 
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CoralClasher

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I can't find that invert QT time post. I just got some peppermint shrimp and not sure how long the QT is? Just after the first molt like the cleaner shrimp?
 

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I can't find that invert QT time post. I just got some peppermint shrimp and not sure how long the QT is? Just after the first molt like the cleaner shrimp?

:)
 

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So how did the Leopards tolerate treatment? Are they still with us. These are delicate fish and likely not do well with complications like this.
 
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CoralClasher

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So how did the Leopards tolerate treatment? Are they still with us. These are delicate fish and likely not do well with complications like this.
The females are doing great. Actually put them in DT last night. The male is still in QT and will start E.M today. I might be giving away a powder brown tang and a splendid dotty back that aren't playing nice this morning.
 

mattzang

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Kevin Cohen from Live Aquaria recently said in a Reefbuilders vlog that leopards don’t need sand and will just sleep in the rocks. I’m not purposely advising against everyone else here, I just figure he is a good source of info and I thought it was interesting.

idk if this is the video you're referencing, but that's not what he said here



he just says that tank is filled with cirrhilabrus and paracheilinus wrasses, neither of which burrow in the sand
 

vetteguy53081

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Vitamin deficiency associated with diet can be a contributor to cloudy eye. The most common cause of cloudy eyes in aquarium fish seems to be poor water quality, a drop in pH level when it drops too low, heavy feeding , and bacteria issues developing in the tank. Try lowering your temp a little and feed less, check all water parameters, and do water change.
Add vitamins and/or garlic extract to its' food and monitor.
If it does not improve in 48 hours, try PraziPro. Should help
 
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