Mattgsa 315 gallon build

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I have been really lazy, and it has been sweltering here in Texas, so I have not found the motivation to work on my mixing station. I'm hoping to make progress on it soon. The problem right now is I have five weeks to procrastinate. ;Shamefullyembarrased :rolleyes:
 
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ay overkill. Just get a jebao or something cheap and have it aimed at the bottom of the mixing station. No need to spend hundreds.
Thanks, I have them leftover from an old tank. However, you may be right. I'm going to need more flow in the 300, I may just use them to supplement the Gyre XF350's. Now I have to rethink my flow. I have another powerhead I can use for that storage container.
 

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Got some more stuff in the mail
IMG_0198.jpg


Also was looking at the rock I ordered, and I think
IMG_0198.jpg
it's going to work out great. This is of course not all of it. I have a couple more boxes, and I'm sure I will have to order more.
IMG_0199.jpg


In addition, there is a small change in plans, I have decided to go with the Royal Exclusiv Bubble King Supermarin 200 Protein Skimmer. I wanted something that I know will last, and always get the job done. I'm also going to go with the Royal return pump as well.

Today is an exciting day for me because I made the down payment on the new aquarium. I'm very excited. The only problem is it will take 5 weeks to get here. The wait is torture.

That rock looks awesome. The wait is killer. I found that I had to just a little bit on the build every so often instead of making tank projects all day events while I was waiting. It kept me interested and excited about the build, and it also kept me from getting too frustrated with the progress on the tank because I wasn’t quite ready for the tank yet. It will go by fast and you will be plumbing and aquascaping before you know it.
 
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That rock looks awesome. The wait is killer. I found that I had to just a little bit on the build every so often instead of making tank projects all day events while I was waiting. It kept me interested and excited about the build, and it also kept me from getting too frustrated with the progress on the tank because I wasn’t quite ready for the tank yet. It will go by fast and you will be plumbing and aquascaping before you know it.

I was thinking about all the work that has to be done for this tank and came to the conclusion I don't have the time to procrastinate so decided to get something done. I have never been so nervous about building something. I had to nail to the top shelf to the same stud that the main water line to the house was nailed too. on top of that, I don't have much confidence in my stud finder. Let me tell you I was seriously thinking twice every time I pulled the trigger on the nail gun.
IMG_0201.jpg
 
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Alright, I'm looking at getting this heater for the new tank.
1595968565133.png

The problem is it has a 1.5" inlet and outlet, and I have 1.5" drains and 3/4" returns. My pump has a 1.5' inlet and a 1" outlet. So where do I put it in the system? Because no matter where I put it I will have to use adapters to make it fit. The other problem (Kinda) is it is rated for 2600 gallons an hour. My pump does over 3600 gallons. The one thing I'm thinking here is, I will most likely not have the pump cranked all the way up. Therefore I'm thinking about putting it on the return. Does anyone have a better suggestion?
 

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Without knowing what your pump is, if it’s rated for 3600 gph, it’s certainly not getting that with head pressure and 3/4” return plumbing. it’s likely significantly less, but no easy way to know without measuring with a flow meter or the gallon pitcher/timer test.

the good news is your heater will still work at slower or higher rates within reason. Perhaps it’s most efficient at that flow rate, but heat is energy into a system.

Adapters are no big deal. I’ll be using multiple in my plumbing.

im curious why you feel the need to go with this contraption as opposed to a couple titanium heaters on a Ranco? Whenever you plumb things in, it adds complexity and replacing things become difficult. A Ranco is very safe and easy, overall cheaper and much more easy to install and essentially zero maintenance over years. Maybe every couple years replace the titanium heaters.

sorry to be a downer...that does look like a cool contraption.
 
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Without knowing what your pump is, if it’s rated for 3600 gph, it’s certainly not getting that with head pressure and 3/4” return plumbing. it’s likely significantly less, but no easy way to know without measuring with a flow meter or the gallon pitcher/timer test.

the good news is your heater will still work at slower or higher rates within reason. Perhaps it’s most efficient at that flow rate, but heat is energy into a system.

Adapters are no big deal. I’ll be using multiple in my plumbing.

im curious why you feel the need to go with this contraption as opposed to a couple titanium heaters on a Ranco? Whenever you plumb things in, it adds complexity and maintenance. A Ranco is very safe and easy, overall cheaper and much more easy to install and essentially zero maintenance over years. Maybe every couple years replace the titanium heaters.

sorry to be a downer...that does look like a cool contraption.

The pump I'm planning on using is the Royal Exclusiv Red Dragon 3 Speedy Pump 100 Watt (3100 GPH) Link. Actually BRS has the size of the pipe wrong according to the Royal the output is 1.25. Red Dragon 3

I have heard and read many times over the years that the inline heaters are far more reliable, and safer than the in-tank models. That being said, the more I think about this and the more I try to plan it the more difficult it becomes. So I may just go back to some in tank heaters. Ideally, I would love to have a heat exchanger, but that will not work given the distance and complexity of getting back to the hot water heater.
 

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The pump I'm planning on using is the Royal Exclusiv Red Dragon 3 Speedy Pump 100 Watt (3100 GPH) Link. Actually BRS has the size of the pipe wrong according to the Royal the output is 1.25. Red Dragon 3

I have heard and read many times over the years that the inline heaters are far more reliable, and safer than the in-tank models. That being said, the more I think about this and the more I try to plan it the more difficult it becomes. So I may just go back to some in tank heaters. Ideally, I would love to have a heat exchanger, but that will not work given the distance and complexity of getting back to the hot water heater.
Cool! Great pump. I also have the 100W speedy 3, the flow version, not the pressure. I’m going to running 1.25” return plumbing and adapt it to 1” at the bulkhead.
 
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I ordered the calcium reactor last night from Bill Wann. I also ordered the backup tank controller for the secondary CO2 tank.
1596113951488.png
 
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Without knowing what your pump is, if it’s rated for 3600 gph, it’s certainly not getting that with head pressure and 3/4” return plumbing. it’s likely significantly less, but no easy way to know without measuring with a flow meter or the gallon pitcher/timer test.

the good news is your heater will still work at slower or higher rates within reason. Perhaps it’s most efficient at that flow rate, but heat is energy into a system.

Adapters are no big deal. I’ll be using multiple in my plumbing.

im curious why you feel the need to go with this contraption as opposed to a couple titanium heaters on a Ranco? Whenever you plumb things in, it adds complexity and replacing things become difficult. A Ranco is very safe and easy, overall cheaper and much more easy to install and essentially zero maintenance over years. Maybe every couple years replace the titanium heaters.

sorry to be a downer...that does look like a cool contraption.

I have decided to take your recomendation. I ordered a ranco controller. I will also get two titanium heaters from BRS.
 
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The new protein skimmer also arrived last night. Perhaps I will find the some to time to clean up this room before the wife gets mad.
IMG_0202.jpg
 

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I have decided to take your recomendation. I ordered a ranco controller. I will also get two titanium heaters from BRS.
Which one did you order? The two stage one? I just wired my second Ranco a couple weeks ago. I can send you a good link to instructions.

Only annoying thing about Ranco is you’re going to have to waterproof the temp probe. Either plastidip, or heat shrink wrap thermal well:

 
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Which one did you order? The two stage one? I just wired my second Ranco a couple weeks ago. I can send you a good link to instructions.

Only annoying thing about Ranco is you’re going to have to waterproof the temp probe. Either plastidip, or heat shrink wrap thermal well:

I ordered the Line Voltage Thermostat, 120/208/240VAC, 2 Stage from Amazon. I'm glad you told me about the probe, I will have to order some heat shrink for sure.

 

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Here’s the link to wire it:

 
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Here’s the link to wire it:

Thank you very much, I have never wired one before. This link will prove most usefull.
 
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Made some more progress. However, I keep going back on forth on the water changing station. I can't seem to make up my mind on how it should be setup. Also, I got this 3 stage resin from BRS, and I don't exactly remember which section should go first or even if it matters.
IMG_0227.jpg
 
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Also, I couldn't stop thinking about the size of the sump, and worrying that it is too small. So I contacted Advanced Acrylics, and they are going to build me a custom sump, and ship it to the LFS who is going to deliver and install the aquarium. I will send the other one back to BRS.
 
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Let's talk automation
I've been thinking about my water change system for a while now, and this is what I have come up with. Like I stated before this system is going to be heavy on the automation.
1597757789849.png

The water level on each tank will be controlled by the Apex. Since each tank will have a high and low sensor, and each will have its own solenoid to control water flow I will be able to manage them independently. So the freshwater will get depleted until it reaches the bottom sensor then triggers the refill. Hopefully protecting against TDS creep.
The same with saltwater's bottom sensor, in addition, it will turn off the auto water changes, and notify me it needs salt at the same time to start refilling the container. The auto water change will not start automatically since there is a chance I will not be available to add salt in time. However, I was also thinking about adding salinity prob, the only problem I see with that is they don't get good reviews, and I'm not sure I want to trust it.
In the event that a solenoid fails each tank will be equipped with a float valve. So that bakes the question of what happens if the saltwater solenoid fails, and opens up thus diluting the saltwater for the auto water changes. I'm still thinking about it. I'm only doing a few gallons a day, and I walk by the reservoir every day multiple times a day, I should notice. However, if I'm on vacation. This is what I'm thinking right now. I will add a float switch at the same leave of the float valve, that when triggered with turn off auto water changes. Or there might be a way to say if the top sensor is triggered again before the bottom one, stop the auto water changes.
 

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How long did they say it would take to build your sump.

I paid for my sump in March and still haven’t received it

Also, I couldn't stop thinking about the size of the sump, and worrying that it is too small. So I contacted Advanced Acrylics, and they are going to build me a custom sump, and ship it to the LFS who is going to deliver and install the aquarium. I will send the other one back to BRS.
 

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