Painting DIY stand

wickette

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Finally getting back to making my stand.

I used wood filler to smooth things out, its a little lumpy lots of minor imperfections. Its primed and painted with flat black latex paint.

Maybe because I used a smooth foam roller,dark paint, flat paint, low quality paint. Water makes the paint blotchy (wet spots look darker/shinier)...

Semi-gloss bathroom paint doesn't do this,I rather not use anything glossy, the imperfections will stand out a lot.

The original plan way to put polyurethane over it, I think it may not be a good idea with flat paint.

Should I go over it with a thick nap roller, more texture/less obvious variations and use poly.
Or spray the while thing down with Krylon enamel. Prime again and use different paint?

ps My cat is bound to pee on it at some point, so sealing and being able to wipe it down is necessary.
 

mspad

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Flat black latex paint will definitely show water marks. I recommend a satin or semi gloss latex exterior paint.
 
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wickette

wickette

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I'm not opposed to either of these ideas... I'm wondering if Im buying a brand new bucket of paint,and not using a matt finish, wouldn't it be easier to prime over what I have now with "something(?)" . And use Appliance spray paint or A spray paint for plastic patio furniture like Krylon Fusion?

I've never used either of these products for their intended purpose but if its good enough for a fridge, or picnic table, it should be fine for a tank stand.

Cleaning up after using roller and brushes is as time consuming as the actual paining (and thats if I buy really good brushes and rollers that wont shed bristles or fibers)
 

Peace River

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Because you have a latex in place I would add a oil based primer (like original Kilz) and then add oil-based/enamel finish coat(s). Texture and application is up to you and your preferences. Good luck!
 

BornHandy

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I recently put out a video on painting a stand and canopy with some tips. In a nutshell, oil based paints give the best finish and are more durable than water based, but are messy when it comes to clean-up, and smelly while painting. Water based paints are more common, and can add a conditioner to extend the drying time (makes it lie smoother and dry with fewer brush strokes).

Hiding imperfections can be hard with black, but a satin or semi-gloss will do a better job of protecting the stand, and hiding water-marks.

If you are interested in the video, the link is below.

 
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wickette

wickette

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I recently put out a video on painting a stand and canopy with some tips. In a nutshell, oil based paints give the best finish and are more durable than water based, but are messy when it comes to clean-up, and smelly while painting. Water based paints are more common, and can add a conditioner to extend the drying time (makes it lie smoother and dry with fewer brush strokes).

Hiding imperfections can be hard with black, but a satin or semi-gloss will do a better job of protecting the stand, and hiding water-marks.

I this is my first time using a many of the techniques for building. Each step has a big learning curve, learning to work with oil paint, or painting with a bristled paint brush is too much to add to this project.

That said your stand looks great, I wish I saw this when I started 4mos ago.
I knew Id have to use paint but hoped I could still have a wood/grain effect (exactly what you have). I was told it wood only look like wood if I used stain or veneers (IDK how to do either).

So, I went the opposite route, sanded the wood down to 260grit. Used wood filler, and joint compound, priming and sanding down to 400grit between each application. The trim is not attached yet, so Im working with a flat rectangle, spray or rollers will work fine for what I have.



(All my furniture is black, this would stick out if it was any other color)
 

Peace River

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I this is my first time using a many of the techniques for building. Each step has a big learning curve, learning to work with oil paint, or painting with a bristled paint brush is too much to add to this project.

That said your stand looks great, I wish I saw this when I started 4mos ago.
I knew Id have to use paint but hoped I could still have a wood/grain effect (exactly what you have). I was told it wood only look like wood if I used stain or veneers (IDK how to do either).

So, I went the opposite route, sanded the wood down to 260grit. Used wood filler, and joint compound, priming and sanding down to 400grit between each application. The trim is not attached yet, so Im working with a flat rectangle, spray or rollers will work fine for what I have.

(All my furniture is black, this would stick out if it was any other color)

If you are using filler, 260 grit, etc. then it sounds like you have the patience to take your time and do it well. This may be a great time to learn a little more about painting. You may want to practice a bit on a scrap piece of wood and there are plenty of how-to videos on YouTube to help you get started. Using a small roller will help you cover the large areas, but most people still use a brush to get into the corners. If it doesn't look like you want it to the first time then you can let it dry, sand it down a bit, and then paint some more. Good luck!
 

BornHandy

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If it is going to be all flat surfaces, you can get a great high gloss finish that is super durable with automotive vinyl. Stop by a sign shop and ask for a small piece of it to try on a piece of scrap. You just might like the result.
 

dantimdad

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I use alkyd enamel in semi gloss. It wipes clean, salt doesn't seem to bother it and it's easy to sand between coats to get a smooth finish.
 

Rjmul

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Because you have a latex in place I would add an oil based primer (like original Kilz) and then add oil-based/enamel finish coat(s). Texture and application is up to you and your preferences. Good luck!
You can't put oil over latex
 

Fish Styx

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You won't be able to put oil over latex, unfortunately. So, your options would be to sand and reprime, and then use an oil based paint. Or, you could use a water-based polycrylic sealant over the existing paint job. Minwax makes a solid rattle can option that would work for you. Maybe a satin finish if you're not into a high gloss sheen. Best of luck. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. <hint><hint>... post pics.
 

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