Preparing for First Quarantine Experience

SkiCatTX

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Over 25 years or so of keeping saltwater fish and corals I have never quarantined, and never had a problem...I now consider that extremely lucky. I will say that I have mostly kept hardy fish like damsels, clowns, pseudochromis, blennies, etc. and reasonably inexpensive corals and inverts.

However, over the last few months I have been reading all the forum threads about QT and fish loss due to all kinds of diseases and shipping stress. There are so many stories of people loosing $1000s on fish and coral due to one fish or infected coral plug. Amazingly, even many of those people still refuse to quarantine and just buy all new fish and go on like it never happened, swearing off QT just as before. Unbelievable.

Anyway, I haven't bought (or lost) a fish in four years (knock on wood), and acquired only a few corals in that time, so in the next few months I plan to go shopping for new stock for my two nano tanks, while I also continue planning for a high-end 180 build for my office later in the year. This time around I will be quarantining for the first time, and figured I would document the experience, and maybe learn something in the process as well.

Since I will be doing the QT in my home office, I wanted everything to look presentable. No ad-hoc and DIY tanks here! And, at least at first, I will be getting smaller fish and just a few corals (and not at the same time) I decided to go with two IM10 Fusion tanks I got in a President's Day Sale. In the future, for larger fish like tangs and angels, I'll likely need bigger tanks, but for fish like clowns and a small number of coral frags I believe these will work well enough.

IMG_6360.jpeg

Arrival Day

IMG_6483.jpeg
In place in the office prior to setup.​

I will likely just set one up, and prepare the other one just before a tank transfer, then remove and sterilize the other. For now they are just both setting here waiting.

I want to stress that I DO NOT plan to QT coral and fish at the same time (even in different tanks). I'm happy to take this slowly, and will be certain to decontaminate the tanks and equipment, remove any trace of copper/bayer, etc. before switching from fish to corals and inverts.

Hardware includes:
  • IM10 Fusion w/supplied return pump and cover
  • Cobalt NeoTherm 50w heater
  • Hydor Koralia Nano power head
  • PVC
  • Kessil A80 Blue
  • Seachem ammonia alert badge
 
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SkiCatTX

SkiCatTX

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For my first round I plan to get a pair of clownfish. I have been missing one since my maroon clown I had for about 14 years died about 5 years ago... My daughter and I looked through all the captive bred options for a small 28 gallon tank and tentatively decided on the clowns. We still haven't narrowed down which ones, but probably designer percula or ocellaris that hopefully won't be too aggressive.
 
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AcroNem

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Nice! Running everything through quarantine is a great practice. I think you're off to a really good start. You're right, too many people risk it and get lucky and end up saying that quarantine isn't necessary, that isn't true. Looking forward to seeing more of what you get in.
 
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SkiCatTX

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Here is my initial high-level plan (subject to additional research and feedback):

  1. Prepare one tank ahead of time with cycled water and sponge kept in active tank for over a month, air stone, circulating pump and AIO sump pump, and the usual PVC angled pipes
  2. Float sealed bags in tank water for temp match.
  3. Freshwater dip upon opening bag while I quickly test and match the salinity of bagged and QT tank water, which will be already prepared around 1.019 or whatever the seller claims they ship at.
  4. Put fish directly from freshwater dip into QT tank with low copper, and raise over several days to therapeutic levels. They will stay in this tank for 3-14 days, depending on condition and further research. If transferred after less than 14 days in first tank, the second tank will have copper as well until they have spent at least 14 days in therapeutic copper (Probably Copper Power).
  5. I am also considering food additives recommended here like API General Cure (parasites, worms, fungus, etc.) and Seachem Focus (Antibacterial and Binding Polymer which claims to improve medication efficacy and apparently make them taste better…) I'm still not certain this is a good idea at the same time as copper treatment, but will continue to research.
  6. After copper, they will be moved into another sterile tank, also cycled and prepared as before, with medication. I'm still researching this part but I'm thinking PraziPro at least depending on any observable issues, for around 14 days.
  7. At this stage, they will either be moved to a medication free QT tank for additional observation, or just moved to display tank.

Again, this plan is preliminary, and subject to feedback (which I welcome), based on reading QT threads like the following:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

Thanks to @HotRocks, @Humblefish, and others for all the great info and starting these threads for all of us to follow and learn from!
 
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SkiCatTX

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I got a bottle of Copper Power and the Hanna Copper tester. Will be ordering the rest next week.

I filled the tanks with fresh water and ran the equipment for a couple days already, then emptied and cleaned everything. I plan to add saltwater to one later this week, get it running, and put the sponge in to get things started.

First question, should I use tank water or new salt water?

I guess if I'm using an active sponge from a tank, new water won't really be any "clean" for long. Might as well move some bacteria and whatever else is in the tank as well...?
 
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SkiCatTX

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Ok, First QT Tank has salt water in it (~8gal new + 2gal from display) and a sponge from the display tank sump. Set up heater, light, pumps, etc. The rest of the meds should arrive next week, then we'll order some fish.
 
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SkiCatTX

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Unfortunately, we are going to have to put off the new fish for a couple weeks. There are a bunch of non-fish related distractions going on, and I have to go out of town again next week, so conditions are not ideal for properly caring for now QT fish. We'll get back on track in April.

I have all the meds now, test kits, tanks are ready, all we need to do is pick out the fish.
 
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SkiCatTX

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Finally,
I just ordered two clownfish from Cultivated Reef! One Midnight Lighting and one Naked, both Ocellaris from Sea & Reef. I got the smallest size, here's hoping they get along OK. Maybe they won't pair up, but I'm not too worried about that.

I had wanted a Frostbite or Snowflake, but my daughter insisted on the Lighting, which is cool too. Love that she's showing an interest.

Here is what they are supposed to look like, we'll see when they arrive next week:

sr_midnight_lightning_ocellaris59.jpg
naked-clownfish-wandl1.jpg
 
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SkiCatTX

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Maybe an airstone under the powerhead for the prazipro bath

Yes, a new air pump is on its way this week. Since there is no skimmer in the QT, I want to make sure to keep air moving. I’ll make sure the power head and return are aimed at the surface as well.
 

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This is a good setup. I tried to go cheap and probably spent as much in the end as those 2 tanks. Ten-gallon tanks will limit the size of your QT inhabitants.
Since you have surface skimming you won't have many issues with aeration. Don't forget that the light mount is a disease vector if you move it between tanks at the transfer.
The main issue I have with Cu is ammonia. I use a lot of preseeded material and I still get a bit of color on the ammonia badge and start needing water changes in the second week. With CP I never had this issue.
I've used HotRocks QT procedure the last few times without any losses.
Hope the clowns are substantially different sizes. My mated pair divorced, changes sex and fought relentlessly. I purposely selected a pair that were close to the same size which was a mistake.
 

AcroNem

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Yes, a new air pump is on its way this week. Since there is no skimmer in the QT, I want to make sure to keep air moving. I’ll make sure the power head and return are aimed at the surface as well.

That's the best thing to do. Even with surface skimming, an airstone is a very good idea (and a necessary component in all professional quarantine) when running medication.
 
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SkiCatTX

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This is a good setup. I tried to go cheap and probably spent as much in the end as those 2 tanks. Ten-gallon tanks will limit the size of your QT inhabitants.
Since you have surface skimming you won't have many issues with aeration. Don't forget that the light mount is a disease vector if you move it between tanks at the transfer.
The main issue I have with Cu is ammonia. I use a lot of preseeded material and I still get a bit of color on the ammonia badge and start needing water changes in the second week. With CP I never had this issue.
I've used HotRocks QT procedure the last few times without any losses.
Hope the clowns are substantially different sizes. My mated pair divorced, changes sex and fought relentlessly. I purposely selected a pair that were close to the same size which was a mistake.

OMG, thanks for the heads up, I imagine I would have totally missed the light mount as an issue. I was planning to be so careful, even using separate tanks to clean and dry them, but might have just moved the light over without thinking...

I have Ammonia badges, and I'll mix up new water this weekend to have extra ready. And I have multiple small bags of Matrix media in the tank for a month or two already which I consider expendable as needed and some Dr. Tim's bacteria.

These two fish are not paired, and I'm concerned if they don't, other than I hope they at least don't try to kill each other...If they do fight, I guess the winner will get the tank to herself...
 

AcanthurusRex

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I have 2 identical 20g setups, other than the light. One stays in the closet until I do the tank swap. I then immediately tear down the Cu/CP tank.
Does not look like you have an existing tank to preseed the bio-media. I had had good results using the AquaForest Life Bio Fil.
Unless you fed the Matrix it won't have very much pre-existing filtering capability. More of an issue when you do the tank swap and need more media. If you set up the second QT now it should be away from the other QT, ten feet is the recommendation.
Chances are those fish will be clean so this should go well.
My "male" did not become mean until after he/she killed all the anthias I added. Then I suspect that completed the transformation and he/she went after the female. They got along for a couple of years before this occurred but they never acted paired after QT. If they went into a smaller tank they may have stayed paired.
 

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have with Cu is ammonia
I'm not jargon friendly yet... Cu = Copper?

With CP I never had this issue
CP = Copper Power?

I've used HotRocks QT procedure the last few times without any losses.
I'm assuming HotRocks is a member? I tried a search for his QT method and couldn't find it. Would someone please post a link? Thanks in advance.

I purposely selected a pair that were close to the same size which was a mistake.
That's a great heads up, I would have 100% done the same thing. Thinking let them decide who gets to be boss.

Thanks for the info!
 
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SkiCatTX

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I have 2 identical 20g setups, other than the light. One stays in the closet until I do the tank swap. I then immediately tear down the Cu/CP tank.
Does not look like you have an existing tank to preseed the bio-media. I had had good results using the AquaForest Life Bio Fil.
Unless you fed the Matrix it won't have very much pre-existing filtering capability. More of an issue when you do the tank swap and need more media. If you set up the second QT now it should be away from the other QT, ten feet is the recommendation.
Chances are those fish will be clean so this should go well.
My "male" did not become mean until after he/she killed all the anthias I added. Then I suspect that completed the transformation and he/she went after the female. They got along for a couple of years before this occurred but they never acted paired after QT. If they went into a smaller tank they may have stayed paired.

Great Info.

I will make sure to move the non-active tank somewhere else, it's just sitting there empty on the desk right now. the QT will be about 7-8 feet away from the JBJ, and about 4 feet from the WB 10, that's just going to have to do, since I don't have anywhere else I can easily put a tank for months at a time for QT.

I do have a JBJ 28 that has been set up for 4 years at this house, and 8 years or so before that at another location. It had only a lawnmower blenny and pseudochomis in it until a few months ago when I moved the pseudochromis to a WB10 tank since it kills any other swimming fish it sees...and I wanted to get more fish for the JBJ.

I also waited a couple months before getting more fish to make sure it would do well in a small tank, but it seems fine, no signs of stressed swimming. It has a burrow under the rocks where it sleeps, and actively swims and begs for food all day anytime it sees anyone in the room. He makes it nearly impossible to take pictures of anything else in the tank, as he is alway in front of the camera...

Anyway, the media is in the AIO sump in the back of the JBJ hanging on strings so should be just fine.

I agree that the fish should be good. I'm doing the QT mostly for observation, to make sure they are eating and recovered, and for my own learning experience for when I want more difficult fish when I am ready to stock my future 180 I'm working on.
 

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