Questions about RODI

[LRT]

Guys - I zipped through this thread quickly - here's some feedback:
*Don't use GAC as a prefilter. Use a carbon block instead.
*Don't orient your DI filters horizontally. Always make them vertical with bottom up flow.

Some jargon:
*Resin that has both cation and anion beads is called MIXED BED (rather than dual bed)
*The clear vertical "filter holders" on systems used in this hobby are called HOUSINGS (rather than "canisters." And yes, I know one of the vendors in this hobby erroneously calls them canisters. Like fingernails on a chalkboard!)


One more thing:
On a typically configured RODI in this hobby (sediment filter-> carbon block->RO membrane->mixed bed DI; you'll want a THREE PROBE inline TDS meter

TRM1 Tri Inline TDS Meter

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

with probes on the feedwater, RO water, and DI water.
Add additional probes by adding 1, 2, or 3 probe meters as needed - you'll want a probe after each membrane, and after each DI stage.

Russ

Alright man first of all thank you all for super informative info here!

Have a quick question for you @Buckeye Hydro
Please take a look at my system. Maxwater flow 100gpd.
Id like to set this up proper with what you suggested. Do you have proper filters compatible with my system? I'd like to utilize what I have as much as possible but do away with the tiny DI housings and upgrade to bigger housings for DI.
I just went to make some water and my membrane must be shot! I may have to upgrade this housing as well as I dont think there is a suitable membrane available to fit this housing?
I'm looking to utilize but customize what I have any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[LRT]

Guys - I zipped through this thread quickly - here's some feedback:
*Don't use GAC as a prefilter. Use a carbon block instead.
*Don't orient your DI filters horizontally. Always make them vertical with bottom up flow.

Some jargon:
*Resin that has both cation and anion beads is called MIXED BED (rather than dual bed)
*The clear vertical "filter holders" on systems used in this hobby are called HOUSINGS (rather than "canisters." And yes, I know one of the vendors in this hobby erroneously calls them canisters. Like fingernails on a chalkboard!)


One more thing:
On a typically configured RODI in this hobby (sediment filter-> carbon block->RO membrane->mixed bed DI; you'll want a THREE PROBE inline TDS meter

TRM1 Tri Inline TDS Meter

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

with probes on the feedwater, RO water, and DI water.
Add additional probes by adding 1, 2, or 3 probe meters as needed - you'll want a probe after each membrane, and after each DI stage.

Russ

Alright so after re reading your post it looks like I can do away with GAC and run Sediment filter> Carbon Block> Silica buster membrane>Cation>Anion>Mixed bed.
Can anyone tell me by looking at my system if Silica buster membrane will be compatible with my housing where the GAC filter is?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Alright so after re reading your post it looks like I can do away with GAC and run Sediment filter> Carbon Block> Silica buster membrane>Cation>Anion>Mixed bed.
Can anyone tell me by looking at my system if Silica buster membrane will be compatible with my housing where the GAC filter is?

First - know that "the silica buster" membrane is just marketing huey - it is just a TFC membrane - all of them remove silica.

The order of filters you mention is ok - you'd not want to move the RO into the GAC housing even if you could (you can't, BTW).

Do you have chloramines in your water? If you're not certain give us a call and we can look it up for you. If you do, you can use that GAC housing to address it.

Russ

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Alright man first of all thank you all for super informative info here!

Have a quick question for you @Buckeye Hydro
Please take a look at my system. Maxwater flow 100gpd.
Id like to set this up proper with what you suggested. Do you have proper filters compatible with my system? I'd like to utilize what I have as much as possible but do away with the tiny DI housings and upgrade to bigger housings for DI.
I just went to make some water and my membrane must be shot! I may have to upgrade this housing as well as I dont think there is a suitable membrane available to fit this housing?
I'm looking to utilize but customize what I have any help would be greatly appreciated.

The three housings across the bottom look to take standard sized filters - called 10" x 2.5" filters but those measurements are approximate.

Your RO housing looks to be standard-sized.

Your horizontal DI's... where do I start?!

Sure - give us a call and we can walk you through reconfiguring/optimizing what you have.

Russ
513-312-2343
[email protected]

 

[LRT]

One more quick question here.
Do you break in your filters or use water immediately if your getting 0 tds after changing filters and membrane?

 

[KStatefan]

I rinse the carbon filters for a few minutes prior to letting the water get to the membrane then I run the first hour of production down the drain prior to the DI resin

 

[LRT]

Quick update here.
Ended up going with this one. Comes packed with DI resin, Tripple TDS meter and ready to plug and play

Search results for: '' - Bulk Reef Supply

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Also changed out my filters so its gonna look like this;
Sediment Filter>1micron carbon block>Pentek Chlor/Chloramine filter>Membrane with flush valve>Cation>Anion> Mix DI resin bed>0tds water to ATO

Have a couple more quick question.
Ill have my Dual TDS meter i want to reconfigure.
Thinking about putting one before membrane. Where would you put the other?
Are any of you reading tds from stage 3 before it hits Membrane? Whats a good number to look for before you change your prefilters? Any of you checking tds after every stage? If so curious which numbers you shoot for before changing each individual filter?

 

[Mical]

Do you have a pressure gauge? I use the pressure gauge to determine when to change pre-filters (Sediment & carbon block) My system has a booster pump that runs at 90 psi - when I see that drop close to 80 then I change out pre filters.

Re: TDS readings - I only have a dual TDS meter and I check after the membrane(s) and after final DI resin.

 

[LRT]

Do you have a pressure gauge? I use the pressure gauge to determine when to change pre-filters (Sediment & carbon block) My system has a booster pump that runs at 90 psi - when I see that drop close to 80 then I change out pre filters.

Re: TDS readings - I only have a dual TDS meter and I check after the membrane(s) and after final DI resin.

I do have a pressure guage.
How long do prefilters typically last for you before pressure gets to 80?

Do you think it would be more worth while for you to put tds meter on your first 3 stages so you know when to change each individual block out?

I know I'm overthinking things. But I will have my dual tds meter freed up.
Am curious if other reefers are checking tds after blocks and what they are shooting for. Could save on membrane and DI in long run I would think.

 

[Mical]

My pre filters usually last 6-9 months (I stock up during BRS sales) RE: TDS readings I'm only interested after membranes & after Resins. Resins change color so I use that for resin changes.

My local water varies from 320 to almost 400 TDS from the tap (seasonal in Minnesota) after membranes I'm usually in the 3-4 TDS range (anything higher I change both membranes and I'm good for a couple of years) TDS after resins is 0 and I rely on the color changing resins to tell me when to change them. Since going to the 3 resins (Cation, Anion & Dual Bed) I go through Anion about every 3-4 months and have yet to change Cation or dual bed in over a year.