Replacing DC Power bricks?

[WallysWorld]

I’m thinking about replacing the plethora of different DC power bricks on my tank with a single industrial grade power supply. I might have to get a multiple output voltage version because I think some stuff needs 24V and other 12V. I’ll need to look at each of the power bricks and look at output volts and watts/amps.

Am I crazy? Anyone else done this?

 

[n1ng]

I did that. Nothing industrial, just an amazon special. I found that unless you are open to wiring up relays you may lose some control. I have quite a few warts connected to outlets to control.

If you are inclined you could just purchase a single supply and solder the leads

 

[Chrisv.]

I did that. Nothing industrial, just an amazon special. I found that unless you are open to wiring up relays you may lose some control. I have quite a few warts connected to outlets to control.

If you are inclined you could just purchase a single supply and solder the leads

Are you happy with this solution?

 

[n1ng]

Are you happy with this solution?

Yes with the limited space in my cabinet it works out great. It's a cleaner look for sure. I'm fortunate that profilux has the ability to diy a relay module so I don't loose too much control.

If you don't need on/off outlet control I would definitely go this route.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

I did this for my lighting (2x 150w Nicrew and 1x100w Nicrew), and also went to a single 5a power brick for my three powerheads. It was more than worth it!

Edit: don't mind the crummy photo of my sump/cabinet. I installed a 24VDC 15a meanwell supply and I have three 3.5mm connectors for my lighting.

It cut back on using 6 outlets to two. And was cheaper than another EB8.

 

[Chrisv.]

I've never even considered this. What a cool idea!

 

[JoshH]

I could be wrong but I think the Hydros controller does this already for most powerheads and pumps. If someone was worried about going the DIY route for something similar

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

I could be wrong but I think the Hydros controller does this already for most powerheads and pumps. If someone was worried about going the DIY route for something similar

Very true, but for those that don't want a controller or is invested into another controllers ecosystem (Apex, GHL). It's a viable cheap option. Total investment 40 bucks, and I went overkill on the power supply.

 

[WallysWorld]

I did that. Nothing industrial, just an amazon special. I found that unless you are open to wiring up relays you may lose some control. I have quite a few warts connected to outlets to control.

If you are inclined you could just purchase a single supply and solder the leads

Hadn’t thought about the individual on/off aspect. Would’ve gotten there, you’re post got me there quicker! Thanks!

 

[Dennis Cartier]

I have done that in past tanks, aggregate power supply for multiple devices. I looked into doing it for the LEDs I was planing to use on my 500G build (21 x AI HD 26), but found they were constant current power supplies, so I shied away from doing it.

In that case it would have made it so much easier than having 21 power bricks to mount and store. Eventually I decided that just moving to 5 ATI Straton's was a better idea than dealing with the power bricks. Also the Straton's should provide more unifom light.

Dennis

 

[Ratherbeflyen]

I eliminated all the power bricks on my tank several years ago.

The plugs were actually really easy. Most of the equipment already used a 2.1 x 5.5 mm jack. I reused a lot of the original wiring and just ran the wires to the bigger power supply. For the ones that had a different connection or didn't have one in the first place, I put one on. You can buy a 10 pack of 2.1x 5.5mm male and female connectors on amazon for $10.48. Or a least I could 3 years ago when I did this project. Then I reused the brick from the return pump to power both wavemakers. I reused it because it supplied 3x the wattage of the gyre wavemakers use, and it was free. This gives me some water circulation redundancy in case the main power supply fails.

I have a pair of 24v power supplies. One for my tank needs and the other runs my 440 watt DIY led.

Then for the things that are anything less than 24v DC, like my backup battery changer and dosing pump etc, I used adjustable buck converters.

They do have exposed connections, but they are not a shock hazard because they are low voltage DC. However, they may short out if they contact something metal. So I put them in a cheap light switch type electrical box along with my relay for the automatic battery backup.

Those items, a soldering gun, wire, and some shrink wrap was all it took to complete the project.

 

[hhaase]

Why did I never think about this before? I work with DIN rail stuff all the time at work, would be super-easy for me to make up a sealed NEMA box with just a couple power supplies at the different voltages, and just go with it.

I like the way you think! I may have a new phase to my tank soon, thank you!

-Hans

 

[BZOFIQ]

I did this as well and DIN rail makes everything so organized and no straps/zip ties/custom brackets are needed.

Whoever is building the next controller should seriously think about everything mounted on a DIN rail.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

I never thought of a din style ps. Now I've seen others go that route, it will be my next iteration. I have access to a few old 24VDC & 12DC DIN rain PS's.

I only went with the meanwell and a few larger amperage bricks to cut down on the overall outlet use with the Apex! Now I have ideas!

 

[DopamineKata]

I'm going to be doing that by using the 24v aux power ports on my Apex and some buck/boost converters.

 

[iReefer12]

This is a great idea, power bricks are a bane of my existence too, please link or show pictures of what you all come up with.

 

[BZOFIQ]

..., please link or show pictures of what you all come up with.

work in progress.... this is about a half of the system.

 

[csund]

 

[gbroadbridge]

I’m thinking about replacing the plethora of different DC power bricks on my tank with a single industrial grade power supply. I might have to get a multiple output voltage version because I think some stuff needs 24V and other 12V. I’ll need to look at each of the power bricks and look at output volts and watts/amps.

Am I crazy? Anyone else done this?

You're creating a single point of failure for life support equipment.

Only way I would do that is with a dual redundant power supply

 

[csund]

You're creating a single point of failure for life support equipment.

Only way I would do that is with a dual redundant power supply

You can use one of these, it will use best input source.

Phoenix Contact - 2320157 - Redundancy Modules,DIN Rail Diode Module For Use With DIN Rail Unit - Allied Electronics & Automation

2320157 from Phoenix Contact at Allied Electronics & Automation

www.alliedelec.com

However, I agree with you and would use individual power supplies.