SkiCat's Dream Build: [Saving The] Planet 180 - The Making Of An Epic Aquacultured Mixed Reef

[SkiCatTX]

The new stand is in the garage!

Way more room under the tank, and above the sump. Still need to work out the best placement, and where the two giant UV tubes will go. Likely I'll pull the sump forward a bit and put them both vertically behind the tank.

I plan to work on this over the weekend and at least get things planned out, plumbing and wood facing. The sump is about finished with my minor tweaks, so I should be able to clean it out and get all the fixtures attached as well.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Also, got one of these:

No more manual cutting, or hack sawing on larger pipes! Should have gotten one of these years ago...

 

[SkiCatTX]

Got some fixtures for dosing. There are two options, one for RODI rigid tubing and another for flexible silicone tubing. I also have some clear acrylic tubes that I'll glue onto the bottom of the fittings down to near the water.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Also, now that the new stand is a bit taller, I wanted to raise the skimmer up a bit. That way the skimmer cup is above the top of the sump, and I can remove it easier as well as have the drain tube run outside to an external drain container if I want.

To do that, I need to raise the water level in the skimmer section a bit. I added a small Acrylic piece at the overflow. Unfortunately I don't have white, and don't want to buy a whole sheet just for this piece. Noone will see it anyway, so this should be fine.

I glued it with Weld-On 4, which worked like a charm, no white blushing like what happens with Super Glue and it holds really strongly.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Also got started on some woodwork. Only the cuts and routing for the bottom and top trim this weekend, but it's coming together.

I routed out the 3/4" top trim boards to the 1/2" cantilever of the stand, which leaves 1/4" of wood to frame the bottom of the tank, and cover the unsightly PCV bottom and a bit of sand.

Interestingly, the Sapphire glass is a bit more blue than it shows in these pictures (more like the second one below), but I'm getting a bit tired of color correcting them...

It's not quite aligned here, but you can see the idea. I'll screw this in from the back so I can remove it when setting up the tank, or to clean or replace it as needed if it gets wet or whatever. I'm thinking of putting a very this weather stripping between the glass and the wood so it makes a watertight seal, not sure yet as it would have to be white and very thin.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Once I did some wood cutting, I switched over the laying out the plumbing. I wanted to get an order in for any additional fixtures that I need for the sales this weekend, so I laid them all out on the floor.

Above is the plan for the triple drain. Starting from the right (as viewed from the back of the tank: The full syphon with a gate valve and the partial syphon both go to the sock section, then the emergency drain on the left goes directly to the skimmer section where it will make noise if it ever gets water in it. the T in the emergency drain was intended so i can join my future frag tank to it...however I think I'm not going to add that, but instead just plumb that emergency drain to one of the 1/2" or 3/4" bunkheads along next to this one. It turns out that, for now at least, I'm not going to be using any of those.

The first pair of 45's shift the pipes from the center under the overflow, to align with the bulkheads in the sump, which are a bit to the right in the rear view. then the second set of 45's shift from the plane of the overflow slightly forward into the sump.

I'm undecided about the unions at the top. On one hand they could be handy if I want to remove the pipes, however, since this will be up against a wall and in the center back of the tank, it is unlikely I will even be able to get them out once the tank is set up...so they just seem like additional sources for leaks...though I will probably use them anyway in the event I want to move the tank or replace the overflow someday...

 

[SkiCatTX]

For the return, I have part of it planned out. The rest I'll have next weekend when I get the rest of the fixtures.

My original plan called for using an 80 watt Pentair HO UV Sterilizer, but I discovered that it was too big around (like 6-7 inches) to fit in my stand. After some additional consideration, I decided to go with the 40 watt standard output version, which is 3 inches across. Then after watching several BRS videos about UV sterilizers, I decided to get two, that way I can run one at the high flow rate for algae control, and another at the the lower parasite rate. Though this requires fitting both of them in the stand, or as I finally decided, vertically behind the stand.

Because of the external overflow box, the tank will be placed 5-6" from the wall, which leaves some space on either side to stand the units up below the top of the tank. You won't be able to see them from the front of the tank, and with the openings at the top of the tube I can change the bulbs out without taking the units out. I just unscrew the top and raise the bulbs straight up. If I do need to remove the unit, I can shut off the two ball valves, unscrew the unions, and raise the big black tubes up just like the lights.

The plumbing coming from the return pump for the right return (when viewed from the front) will enter through the bottom left in the image and split in two. Some water will go through the UV tube and some through the bypass, depending on the settings of the ball valves. I will also install Neptune flow sensors for both paths so I can determine and monitor the approximate flow through each.

The left return will have a matching but mirrored set, so either side can be high or low flow, or both can be one or the other depending on the need. I can also vary the M2 DC return pumps as needed between the two to control the flow.

One additional note that I'm still working out is that the left return will likely have couple manifold connections with ball valves that run a loop to the chiller before the UV. Originally I planned to have a separate closed loop from the sump for the chiller, but in the end I decided that fewer pumps might be better. The two M2 return pumps are interchangeable, and hopefully both won't die in the same week...or maybe I'll get another for backup, but otherwise I would need another DC controllable pump at all times just to run the chiller. We'll see how that goes, I'll install the manifold connections either way.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Got some more woodworking in this morning. I got the top skirt trim drilled and mounted. This is routed around the top to cover the PVC bottom and is held in place from behind by counter-set stainless steel screws. I will be able to remove the 3 panels to move the tank, or later if needed for maintenance. They will also extend back 6" behind the tank on the sides to cover the equipment.

I finished installing some edge wood on all four sides of the bottom panel. These will be sealed and will hold a small amount of water if spilled from running onto the floor. I also drilled and tapped (threaded) pins around the bottom steel which will hold the bottom skirt panels in place along with magnets, allowing me to remove them to adjust leveling and clean up spills under the stand.

 

[SkiCatTX]

I got the screws this morning to hold the magnets on the bottom panels. They hold on very well, so that part is done.

The pins are 8/32 stainless machine screws in threaded holes with a few small washers. They old the panels in the correct location, while the rare earth magnets hold the panel to the stand. This way I'll be able to take them off if I need to get under the stand, in the unlikely case that I spill water near the tank...

 

[SkiCatTX]

The sump is nearly ready to begin installation. I cleaned it up yesterday, vacuumed out the plastic shavings, removed the remaining wrapping, washed it thoroughly, then dried. Today I installed all the fixtures, though I have a few more I need to order, and got some pictures.

The drain and sock chambers with 2x 1.5" bulkheads for the main display and 2x 3/4" for the frag tank. The slots in the pipes will hopefully help with crash noise and bubbles. Then there are 2x 7" sock holes. I plan to run one 7" Klir roller filter with the other plugged for now.

There is one additional 1.5" in the skimmer chamber, for the emergency drain. The additional holes with plugs are for various wires, optical sensors, probes, heaters, pumps, etc.

There are two drip returns over each of the next chambers. These can be used for various things like adding low-pH CaRx effluent into the start of the refugium so the macroalgae can help raise the pH, or adding Alk to a high-flow area, whatever. In all cases for 1/4" I have two connector options, one for rigid RODI tubing, and another for flexible silicone or vinyl tubing. I can swap these out as needed, and I have way too many fixtures right now, but it is way easier to drill and tap them now, rather than when the tank is running later.

Similarly, I have an unreal number of other drip/dosing returns in the return pump chamber. Again, they can be swapped out, and I have hopefully more than I'll ever use, but they're at least ready to go. The two white fixtures are for saltwater and freshwater, and have Murloc connectors on the top and bottom. This allows them to be under pressure from the mixing station and not leak if a fault occurs and the float valves stop the flow.

In the skimmer section in the back, there are several 1/2" bulkheads (the holes are drilled to handle 3/4" bulkheads as well if that is needed) for closed loops like reactors, chiller, or whatever. There are also two additional 1/4", but the tubes on these go all the way into the water. These can be used as source draws for a Trident, Reefbot, or CaRx. If I need more in-water draws, I can replace any of the shorter ones in there now with longer tubes in the pump chamber.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Speaking of the fresh and saltwater fixtures for ATO and AWC respectively, the current plan is as follows:

Freshwater
First, a solenoid will be normally closed. When ATO water is needed as determined by optical sensors in the return pump chamber, the solenoid will be opened. This lets water into the sump. There will be a float valve as well, so if the water gets above the top optical sensor it will block the water even if the solenoid valve is open.

Saltwater
For water changes, there will be a solenoid valve as well. I found one specially made for salt or corrosive water, which is fully plastic on the inside (since the Apex solenoid valve is metal and is not supposed to be used for saltwater). For the pump, I will probably use a DOS (I was originally thinking a DC pump in the skimmer section, but I like the idea of the DOS continuous AWC if I can get it to work).

With the DOS, the new saltwater goes first through the solenoid (which I plan to program using the APEX to open when the pump runs to prevent water from leaking through due to back pressure from the tank upstairs), then through one of the DOS peristaltic pump heads and into the return chamber. Another float valve will serve as a backup as well here. The other DOS head will pump water out from the skimmer chamber at the same time.

These typically stay in sync pretty well I understand, but I hope to use the optical sensors for the ATO, which should be off during AWC to monitor water changes as well. If the water goes up or down any during the DOS AWC, I can adjust by adding or removing additional water. Hopefully, though, this is not really needed. Maybe I could just set some alarms when this is detected. I am worried about automating this too much and having something go wrong, changing the salinity too much, or just overflowing or running dry due to a back sensor...

One additional backup, I can add more optical sensors to the sump--one near the top to alarm if too much mater is in the sump--and another near the bottom so if it gets too low it alarms. That would have been helpful a few times when my other tanks' ATO optical sensors get dirty and stop detecting low (or high) water and either alarm or just don't run and the pumps run dry...

 

[ReefChef19]

The sump is nearly ready to begin installation. I cleaned it up yesterday, vacuumed out the plastic shavings, removed the remaining wrapping, washed it thoroughly, then dried. Today I installed all the fixtures, though I have a few more I need to order, and got some pictures.

The drain and sock chambers with 2x 1.5" bulkheads for the main display and 2x 3/4" for the frag tank. The slots in the pipes will hopefully help with crash noise and bubbles. Then there are 2x 7" sock holes. I plan to run one 7" Klir roller filter with the other plugged for now.

There is one additional 1.5" in the skimmer chamber, for the emergency drain. The additional holes with plugs are for various wires, optical sensors, probes, heaters, pumps, etc.

There are two drip returns over each of the next chambers. These can be used for various things like adding low-pH CaRx effluent into the start of the refugium so the macroalgae can help raise the pH, or adding Alk to a high-flow area, whatever. In all cases for 1/4" I have two connector options, one for rigid RODI tubing, and another for flexible silicone or vinyl tubing. I can swap these out as needed, and I have way too many fixtures right now, but it is way easier to drill and tap them now, rather than when the tank is running later.

Similarly, I have an unreal number of other drip/dosing returns in the return pump chamber. Again, they can be swapped out, and I have hopefully more than I'll ever use, but they're at least ready to go. The two white fixtures are for saltwater and freshwater, and have Murloc connectors on the top and bottom. This allows them to be under pressure from the mixing station and not leak if a fault occurs and the float valves stop the flow.

In the skimmer section in the back, there are several 1/2" bulkheads (the holes are drilled to handle 3/4" bulkheads as well if that is needed) for closed loops like reactors, chiller, or whatever. There are also two additional 1/4", but the tubes on these go all the way into the water. These can be used as source draws for a Trident, Reefbot, or CaRx. If I need more in-water draws, I can replace any of the shorter ones in there now with longer tubes in the pump chamber.

I may have missed it, but who made your sump. It looks sweet!

 

[SkiCatTX]

I may have missed it, but who made your sump. It looks sweet!

Jeff over at Lifereef in Colorado. He's mostly on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/lifereef/). He makes everything himself by hand for like 20 years, only a few per month, mostly custom. Though he does pre-make make some standard CaRx and Skimmers, but he'll do those custom as well, colors, sizes, etc. Really awesome stuff, good quality.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Jeff over at Lifereef in Colorado. He's mostly on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/lifereef/). He makes everything himself by hand for like 20 years, only a few per month, mostly custom. Though he does pre-make make some standard CaRx and Skimmers, but he'll do those custom as well, colors, sizes, etc. Really awesome stuff, good quality.

I have been modifying it a bit though, adding some more fixtures and things as I get closer to the build, and decide on equipment. But, it's still a good high-quality build to start.

 

[SkiCatTX]

I decided to go with the Marine Rustoleum, which appears to be popular on R2R. Make sure it's the Topside, since the bottom paint contains copper and other things meant to kill marine life on a boat hull.

However, any guesses what's wrong with this picture?

Hint: The stand is going to be white...

Seems I somehow ordered John Deere Green paint...does anyone actually paint their boat that color? Not sure how that happened, but I checked and I can't return it, that's a pain. So I ordered another can of white, should be here by the weekend.

 

[SkiCatTX]

I decided to go with the Marine Rustoleum, which appears to be popular on R2R. Make sure it's the Topside, since the bottom paint contains copper and other things meant to kill marine life on a boat hull.

However, any guesses what's wrong with this picture?

Hint: The stand is going to be white...

Seems I somehow ordered John Deere Green paint...does anyone actually paint their boat that color? Not sure how that happened, but I checked and I can't return it, that's a pain. So I ordered another can of white, should be here by the weekend.

Actually, it occurs to me maybe if alternated with another lighter or darker color it could be camo paint for a fishing boat...

 

[SkiCatTX]

Built a stand for the skimmer, in order to raise the cup above the top of the sump.

I also figure I can use the space below to put a Brightwell bio block under it. Fits exactly between the legs.

It is very porous, I figure why not...

 

[SkiCatTX]

Also, just got started with bit of plumbing...mad at myself for that bit of spill on the glue...the other joints are so clean...I'll have to see if I can scrape that off or something...

They'll be a little more aligned once I get them adjusted for the actual connections to the overflow...

 

[crusso1993]

Just read through your thread. Great attention to detail which I love!

You definitely had some trying times with PA and the stand builder. Happy it all has worked out for you! I realize the stand is powder coated but do you plan on any additional protection to the powder coating? I understand that everything it set up so adding a layer of poly really is not an option. However, if you're interested in a simple and easy to apply added protection, I would suggest looking at bowling alley wax or something comparable. It provides some protection but also makes keeping the stand clean much easier.

Looking forward to continuing to follow along and see some scaping, other plans and water going in the system!

 

[SkiCatTX]

Just read through your thread. Great attention to detail which I love!

You definitely had some trying times with PA and the stand builder. Happy it all has worked out for you! I realize the stand is powder coated but do you plan on any additional protection to the powder coating? I understand that everything it set up so adding a layer of poly really is not an option. However, if you're interested in a simple and easy to apply added protection, I would suggest looking at bowling alley wax or something comparable. It provides some protection but also makes keeping the stand clean much easier.

Looking forward to continuing to follow along and see some scaping, other plans and water going in the system!

Thanks!

I am happy with the tank, and it was a good price, but it was a pain getting this far...the second stand build is better than the first, so that’s something.

I am building a wood wrap for the stand with removable doors. I will use marine grade primer and paint on the wood, and I was planning on painting over the steel also with both, so it is all the same color, and stainless screws and any holes or scratches are covered as well...

Build continues very slowly, since I missed my window over the holidays to get a head start, but I do little each week...