The Modified Black Box Thread

[Squidmantis]

Hi there!

I’d like to know if there is any chance to connect any GHL Profilux controller to a Mars Aqua lamp.

Due to Profilux Light( the one I’m gonna get)has 4x 1V-10V interfaces for connection of dimmable lights or controlled pumps....just wondering if it is possible or not.
Just modding Mars Aqua by swapping the dimmable knobs controllers with RJ12 cables to be connected to the Profilux...?
I’m not an expert...so maybe somebody of you as Mr.Michael Lane could say something about it ....

The “Profilux Light” is the cheaper one among the Profilux controller:

https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/profilux-aquarium-controller/profilux-light/

Access denied - GHL Advanced Technology

You do not have sufficient permissions to view this page. Go back to previous page

www.aquariumcomputer.com

I just got an answer from the GHL support and they suggested me to ask to a member of their forum who opened and wired his lamp himself over an EVG-AP-2F.

https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/usa/product/evg-ap-2f-hic-2/

As I previously said...I’m a rookie about electronics...

In short...

-Should I use a break box device...as kindly suggested a member if this forum?
If so...I could get this one from GHL:

https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/profilux-accessories/breakout-boxes-adapters/

-Should I use a EVG-AP-2F?
Here I found a thread about this:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/evg-ap-2f-hic-instructions.659234/


-So no modding needed as for the ML mod?

Is not possible to connect directly the Mars Aqua ( once it will be modded with Rj12 cable )to be connected to the device controller?
Is Break box or VG-AP-2F that necessary to fit the properly connection?

I have a land of confusion( as the Genesis song) in my head...


Could you be so kind to explain me step by step as I were a kid what I have to do to have my Mars Aqua 165W to be connected to the Profilux Light controller and fully working to let me set a proper sunrise/sunset program and so on?
And last question...
As you know Mars Aqua dimmer is set to start from about 20% power...
Once the mod will be done and finally connected to the Profilux controller ...it will be possible to dim from 0% to 100% as the controller itself allow to do?


Thanks in advance for your help!:cool:

Cheers

 

[Squidmantis]

Anybody there? :cool:

In the meanwhile I took a look at the Profilux Light controller manual :

Access denied – GHL (International)

www.aquariumcomputer.com

If I got right EVG-AP-2F or Breakout box are necessary for other brand lamp you are gonna connect to Profilux.
I attached the starting part of the manual regarding the lightning...

What do you think about it?

Thanks

Cheers

 

[Omgitsjoe]

Wow... what a read. I just read through everything and after talking to some people I decided to purchase:

Pardon Our Interruption...

My questions:
1. Do I need to violate my light and start swapping diodes to get a more optimal spectrum or is this light good?
2. Would it be beneficial to just swap out the board with this one from SB? https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-replacement-parts/6-sbox-replacement-pcb-board.html
3.What corals would I NOT be able to grow using this setup?

I understand there are a lot of variables that go into play (Height, placement etc.) Im questioning the light itself, not how I place it on my tank.

 

[Heabel7]

Wow... what a read. I just read through everything and after talking to some people I decided to purchase:

Pardon Our Interruption...

My questions:
1. Do I need to violate my light and start swapping diodes to get a more optimal spectrum or is this light good?
2. Would it be beneficial to just swap out the board with this one from SB? https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-replacement-parts/6-sbox-replacement-pcb-board.html
3.What corals would I NOT be able to grow using this setup?

I understand there are a lot of variables that go into play (Height, placement etc.) Im questioning the light itself, not how I place it on my tank.

I bought the same but with WiFi app (original app). Actual schedule works fine but randomly turn on at night. So I have an auto timer set to keep them off during the night.

1. They grew everything fine stock. However, they were a little to 10k for me with 100% blue 50 white channel.
2. Might be.. but you could have just bought sblights with a better warranty for that price. but you can DIY with some soldering skills for much less. FYI unlike other companies black boxes. Each LED is soldered to the board. Not just the contacts but the actual LED heat spreader is soldered to the aluminum. Makes changing them very time consuming. In addition you need to hunt down the 45mil chips. A lot of the cheap ones on eBay are as small as 27mil. makes a HUGE difference. Hunt around and spend a few more dollars for actual epistar/bridgelux 45mil LEDs
3. You can grow everything

Personally I have switched out so many LEDs on my unit it is nothing like before. Added lower end UV, more royal blue, replaced some 14k white with 20k, removed 2 red, added cyan, removed some 2700k. I tried to mimic Orphek to my best ability. But it was still very white/yellow for me. I also noticed that anything close to the AB+ was mostly blue and UV with 10%ish red/white/green. So I changed enough LEDs that I can run both channels at The same percentage and get a AB+ look.
I modded one light at a time so I could monitor any changes. Each time I have modded I have noticed better colors and growth on the mods. In addition, 2 lights do not fully cover a 4ft tank at 12” off the surface. I believe I’d have to go 18+ and lose par. My new task is to figure out how to balance the hotspot in the middle and get better spread with adequate par. Hence color mod to run both channels at 100%. Started removing lenses and sanding the acrylic. Will be renting a par meter soon to finish mods.

After all this fun. I wish I just had money to buy some ReeFi lights. They look amazing.

 

[Omgitsjoe]

I bought the same but with WiFi app (original app). Actual schedule works fine but randomly turn on at night. So I have an auto timer set to keep them off during the night.

1. They grew everything fine stock. However, they were a little to 10k for me with 100% blue 50 white channel.
2. Might be.. but you could have just bought sblights with a better warranty for that price. but you can DIY with some soldering skills for much less. FYI unlike other companies black boxes. Each LED is soldered to the board. Not just the contacts but the actual LED heat spreader is soldered to the aluminum. Makes changing them very time consuming. In addition you need to hunt down the 45mil chips. A lot of the cheap ones on eBay are as small as 27mil. makes a HUGE difference. Hunt around and spend a few more dollars for actual epistar/bridgelux 45mil LEDs
3. You can grow everything

Personally I have switched out so many LEDs on my unit it is nothing like before. Added lower end UV, more royal blue, replaced some 14k white with 20k, removed 2 red, added cyan, removed some 2700k. I tried to mimic Orphek to my best ability. But it was still very white/yellow for me. I also noticed that anything close to the AB+ was mostly blue and UV with 10%ish red/white/green. So I changed enough LEDs that I can run both channels at The same percentage and get a AB+ look.
I modded one light at a time so I could monitor any changes. Each time I have modded I have noticed better colors and growth on the mods. In addition, 2 lights do not fully cover a 4ft tank at 12” off the surface. I believe I’d have to go 18+ and lose par. My new task is to figure out how to balance the hotspot in the middle and get better spread with adequate par. Hence color mod to run both channels at 100%. Started removing lenses and sanding the acrylic. Will be renting a par meter soon to finish mods.

After all this fun. I wish I just had money to buy some ReeFi lights. They look amazing.

$169 for 2 fixtures? I thought that was a pretty good deal. Do you have a link to some cheaper ones?

thanks!

 

[Omgitsjoe]

Crap.. just realized this wasnt the wifi model. Canceling order now. Cheapest wifi model you know of?

 

[Heabel7]

Crap.. just realized this wasnt the wifi model. Canceling order now. Cheapest wifi model you know of?

The same model with WiFi just a bit more plus 3 channels of control with ramping. Worth it. Thinking also now they on 2nd generation app. Probably more reliable then mine. Also I did have a WiFi module fail in the 1st year. It took a few days on eBay mail through China, but they did send me one for free.

 

[Omgitsjoe]

The same model with WiFi just a bit more plus 3 channels of control with ramping. Worth it. Thinking also now they on 2nd generation app. Probably more reliable then mine. Also I did have a WiFi module fail in the 1st year. It took a few days on eBay mail through China, but they did send me one for free.

Im about to place the order now. They are $99 a piece. Think two would be good for 48"x18"x21" ?

 

[Heabel7]

Im about to place the order now. They are $99 a piece. Think two would be good for 48"x18"x21" ?

Yep just know if evenly spaced you will have some small shadowing on edges. But overall with the 120 lenses it does good on 48” with 2 units. Old picture but you can see it on the edges plus the blockage of light from middle brace.

 

[AquaRaider44]

Hello,

Has anyone found replacement SMD LEDs for the new MarsAquas?

 

[Reefs of Space]

Hello,

Has anyone found replacement SMD LEDs for the new MarsAquas?

I haven't found any reef spectrum SMD LEDs. I ended up soldering on some Epistar LEDs from ebay.

 

[AquaRaider44]

I haven't found any reef spectrum SMD LEDs. I ended up soldering on some Epistar LEDs from ebay.

Can you link those

 

[That Crusso Kid]

Hello,

Has anyone found replacement SMD LEDs for the new MarsAquas?

I do not know exactly what he used but @Flippers4pups has made some big modifications to his MarsAqua lights. Maybe he'll speak up.

 

[AquaRaider44]

I do not know exactly what he used but @Flippers4pups has made some big modifications to his MarsAqua lights. Maybe he'll speak up.

He was using the old LEDs that you could solder on the older boards unfortunately

 

[Flippers4pups]

I do not know exactly what he used but @Flippers4pups has made some big modifications to his MarsAqua lights. Maybe he'll speak up.

The new boards are a mystery to me yes I'm not quite sure what type of LED diode they are. I am certain that they are applied by heating the whole board/PCB. I am certain I could unsolder them by using techniques that found on the internet. What diode they are, uncertain, what I have to dig through some of my research as there are a couple different types of diodes that are applied this way.

He was using the old LEDs that you could solder on the older boards unfortunately

Yes, that diode form factor is no longer being used in manufacturing for these boards. Not sure exactly when the change happened, possibly 2018/2019?

 

[AquaRaider44]

The new boards are a mystery to me yes I'm not quite sure what type of LED diode they are. I am certain that they are applied by heating the whole board/PCB. I am certain I could unsolder them by using techniques that found on the internet. What diode they are, uncertain, what I have to dig through some of my research as there are a couple different types of diodes that are applied this way.


Yes, that diode form factor is no longer being used in manufacturing for these boards. Not sure exactly when the change happened, possibly 2018/2019?

Sucks that nobody has found a source yet but I have contacted these people https://tczmled.en.alibaba.com/prod....html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.88.30.575bd280HmAxi3 about these leds and am hoping for a response soon!

 

[Reefs of Space]

Can you link those

Just cheap ebay 45mil 3w epistars

3W High Power LED Chip Light Beads White Warm red green UV IR emitting diode | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 3W High Power LED Chip Light Beads White Warm red green UV IR emitting diode at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I had to scratch the black coating off to expose the positive and negative copper onlays. You have to offset it from where the SMD was. The bottom of the new led will make the connection on the tiny positive and negative and bypass the new led.

 

[Reefs of Space]

Sucks that nobody has found a source yet but I have contacted these people https://tczmled.en.alibaba.com/prod....html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.88.30.575bd280HmAxi3 about these leds and am hoping for a response soon!

Those look like the right ones, just limited on spectrum.

 

[77onReef]

was wanting to begin with so, it's now at 21,000 lux for this coral.

dd that his is doing it to him and no one else is.
I think the question would be what is the pulse at and doe

The white, red, and green leds create the most disco effect if that is what you are trying to eliminate. Having uniform patterns makes it more pronounced. I kept the reds and greens with 120s and I alternated the whites between 90 clear and beaded and then some 120s. It may not make sense at first

 

[StatelineReefer]

Mouser has the 3030 smds available now. OSRAM OSLON and CREE XPE lines.

The SMDs are best removed with a rework hot air station, electronics ASD tweezers, and a little patience. replacement is as simple as tinning the pad they sit on and letting your hot air tool do the work. Do NOT linger the hot air over a good LED you plan to reuse, it will melt the thermal pad inside the SMD and cause your chip to overheat and die in short order. Instead heat the board, and with the solder at a good reflow temperature, place the LED on the pad as you remove the hot air.