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I guess I wasn’t specific enough, I was interested in halides because I like the idea of setting something up and not being able to mess with it. I also don’t understand leds and why they cost so much, lastly unlike most people I don’t care much about color and I would much rather have rapid growth. I got these leds because they were inexpensive and I bought the tank on a whim.Used to run a 400w metal halide over a 90g reef was great but like others said it gets costly. energy usage and routine bulb changes are painful on the wallet. LED has made great strides in our hobby for a reason, cheaper and more options to adjust the color spectrum. I'd stick with a nice higher end led like kessel or AI prime personally.
Metal halides are great for this. I'd say go for it. I never had a problem with mine. Worked great for the corals I had in the tank and the color is nice. Whenever switching lights remember to photo acclimate your corals as they can easily bleach due to higher par output of the metal halide lamp.I guess I wasn’t specific enough, I was interested in halides because I like the idea of setting something up and not being able to mess with it. I also don’t understand leds and why they cost so much, lastly unlike most people I don’t care much about color and I would much rather have rapid growth. I got these leds because they were inexpensive and I bought the tank on a whim.
Thanks for your response, I started reefing in 2008 when I was 11. I had one of the original oceanic biocubes. I got out about a year later and started it back up in 2014. Upgraded to a normal 30 gallon with 6 bulb t5 over it man that thing was bright, tank shattered went back to the biocube 29. Went to work at a summer camp in another state and everything died. Tore it down August 2017 and then the virus came and I set it up again because I was bored, pc bulbs died found out that nobody sells them anymore, so now I have this. P.S I’m disabled and in a power chair so sorry for the poor grammar and punctuationMan, the halide myths are just crazy these days. People think they just stopped evolving and haven't gotten better over the years.
Slap a 150w Phoenix 14k over that tank and watch the tank come to life. Corals will be happier. Tank will be healthier. Heat is not nearly the issue people make it out to be. It has been proven time and time again bulbs only need replacing every 2 years. You can replace at 1 year if you are running a much more demanding tank but not necessary.
Sorry, I have tried most and there isn't an LED on the market that can touch a decent halide setup. You need double the recommended amount of LED fixtures or you run into serious shading issues. This comes from someone who has recently had the A360x, G4 Pro and G5 Pro Radions on my tank. Just switched over to Reef Brite 250w 14k halides and the tank came back to life.
When I find a few hours I am going to get out the PAR meter and test a whole bunch of combinations before I sell the Radions. Initial numbers and results are exactly why I went back to halides. Having said that, PAR is only a part of the story and you can only truly compare PAR if the spectrum is nearly identical. LED marketing makes the spectrum look a lot better than it actually is. I thought they used to smooth out T5 and halide spectral plots. LEDs took it to a whole new level.
Great, I have become the "get off my lawn" old school reefers LOL
What do you run now?Metal halides are great for this. I'd say go for it. I never had a problem with mine. Worked great for the corals I had in the tank and the color is nice. Whenever switching lights remember to photo acclimate your corals as they can easily bleach due to higher par output of the metal halide lamp.
Man, the halide myths are just crazy these days. People think they just stopped evolving and haven't gotten better over the years.
Slap a 150w Phoenix 14k over that tank and watch the tank come to life. Corals will be happier. Tank will be healthier. Heat is not nearly the issue people make it out to be. It has been proven time and time again bulbs only need replacing every 2 years. You can replace at 1 year if you are running a much more demanding tank but not necessary.
Sorry, I have tried most and there isn't an LED on the market that can touch a decent halide setup. You need double the recommended amount of LED fixtures or you run into serious shading issues. This comes from someone who has recently had the A360x, G4 Pro and G5 Pro Radions on my tank. Just switched over to Reef Brite 250w 14k halides and the tank came back to life.
When I find a few hours I am going to get out the PAR meter and test a whole bunch of combinations before I sell the Radions. Initial numbers and results are exactly why I went back to halides. Having said that, PAR is only a part of the story and you can only truly compare PAR if the spectrum is nearly identical. LED marketing makes the spectrum look a lot better than it actually is. I thought they used to smooth out T5 and halide spectral plots. LEDs took it to a whole new level.
Great, I have become the "get off my lawn" old school reefers LOL
Would you do a 150 or 250?Here is the poor color I get from my 250 watt 14k's on my 120.
No blue supplement in this pic.
I do run an or3 blue plus 1/2 hr before and after MH for dawn dusk.
Many misconceptions about MH floating around out their.
What do you run now?It would not be overkill depending on what you want. I remember Rod Buehler's place the guy from Rods food and he had like a 30 gallon all in one with a 400 watt metal halide over it. Did just fine but might have been a little over kill but it worked.
I used to run 250's and VHO's over a 40 breeder it it was not overkill at all.
That is how the hobby has become. A few people say something and it is parroted enough it become fact. It is social media.
I run 2 separate 13.5g tanks both with an AI prime set at different color spectrums for species specific lighting needs.What do you run now?
I would run a 250 14K de phoenix in a lumenbright mini at 14" off the surface. Thats actually 10" off the surface from the glass as it 4 more inches to the bulb.Would you do a 150 or 250?
Here is the poor color I get from my 250 watt 14k's on my 120.
No blue supplement in this pic.
I do run an or3 blue plus 1/2 hr before and after MH for dawn dusk.
Many misconceptions about MH floating around out their.
I’d screw with it too muchI run 2 separate 13.5g tanks both with an AI prime set at different color spectrums for species specific lighting needs.