[FONT="]The turf algae scrubber [/FONT][FONT="] (TAS) [/FONT][FONT="]has been around for a long time. Commercial fish farmers use them, in huge mats, to remove nitrates from the stock ponds in which they farm fresh and saltwater fish for consumption. TAS have been used in the aquarium hobby for many years, as well. Some hobbyist will use them as a natural nitrate reducing tool where others will move on to the newest technology for nitrate removal. If you have the space, they are a low cost filtration system that is very easy to maintain and very effective. Some benefits of the TAS, besides nitrate reduction are;[/FONT]
[FONT="]Have you ever gone to the beach and seen algae growing on the pylons supporting the boardwalks? That is turf algae. Being dry does not kill it. In fact, if you can build your TAS so that it is exposed to air, for a few minutes at a time, it will be even more effective than providing a 24 x 7 source of water. There are currently three active users in the Southern Colorado Marine Aquarist Society, that I know of, that are using TAS on their systems. Myself, Calvin415, and Huhhhhh. Huhhhhh’s Scrubber build can be found here: Huhhhhh Scrubber. Mr Liriel designed and posted up a DIY on one as well and can be found here: Mr Liriel Scrubber . Calvin415 is running a TAS on his nano tank with great results.
[/FONT][FONT="]How to build a TAS.[/FONT][FONT="]
I built my scrubber on the theory that you need 1 square inch for every gallon of water in the system 300 gallons = 300 square inches or 10†x 30â€. I started out with some 1†PVC pipe and cut a slot down the center with my table saw. If you can keep from going all the way through, it is better as your end caps will be much more snug of a fit.
I then cut slots perpendicular to the long axis of the pipe. This is to allow water to flow out and down the screen.
On the other end, I built the supply line out of a PVC T and barb fitting;
For my set up, the slot down the axis is 28 ½†long and two gutter guards are siliconed together;
I cut the top of the screen perpendicular to the screen to create tabs that slip in the slot that was cut out of the
In hind sight, after trial and error, you should use something that is much more porous so the algae have a base to adhere to. I ended up going with plastic needle point material and attached that to the gutter guard. The key to this is to make it as rough as you can. As rough as a cactus.
I used a Lights of America PC flood light that is only 65 watts but puts out enough to grow algae; http://www.lightsofamerica.com/en/Products/9265.aspx
Since I first built this, back in 2009, I have gone to 4 50 watt flood lights. I really think PC lighting would be the most effective for this set up because of its 30†length vs the floods. 75 watt floods burn the algae that grows on the screen so I try and stick with the 50s
[/FONT][FONT="]Maintenance[/FONT][FONT="]
Clean the scrubber every 7-10 days. Remove the brown algae and let the green grow. You will know it is turf algae as it looks fluffy and stringy. I use a hose with pressure nozzle on it to blow the brown algae off. The Turf Algae is pretty tough and you don't loose much during cleaning.
Once the turf algae has taken root, you clean ½ of the scrubber every week so that it grows rapidly. The faster you get it to grow, the more effective it is. I alternate sides every cleaning
As far as spectrum on your lights you can use 5K to 6500K bulbs with good results. I run my lighting 12 hours a day, per side, but alternate sides so each side is getting 12 hours a day. You can illuminate it up to 18 hours a day.
When I first discovered this method of nutrient export, it was from a user named SantaMonica. I read through his trial and errors and adapted them to my use. He was pretty much the source of information, back then. Now, if you do a google search on turf algae scrubber, you get all kinds of videos and links to commercial sites, as well as users who have done DIY on them.
[/FONT]
- [FONT="]Will pull nitrates and phosphates from existing live rock, once those elements have been removed from the water column.[/FONT]
- [FONT="]Place for pods to grow and live since they feed on the micro algae[/FONT]
- [FONT="]No moving parts[/FONT]
- [FONT="]Only need a pump or you can feed directly from the tank via gravity[/FONT]
- [FONT="]Increases O2 in the tank[/FONT]
- [FONT="]Reduces algae growth in the display tank[/FONT]
[FONT="]Have you ever gone to the beach and seen algae growing on the pylons supporting the boardwalks? That is turf algae. Being dry does not kill it. In fact, if you can build your TAS so that it is exposed to air, for a few minutes at a time, it will be even more effective than providing a 24 x 7 source of water. There are currently three active users in the Southern Colorado Marine Aquarist Society, that I know of, that are using TAS on their systems. Myself, Calvin415, and Huhhhhh. Huhhhhh’s Scrubber build can be found here: Huhhhhh Scrubber. Mr Liriel designed and posted up a DIY on one as well and can be found here: Mr Liriel Scrubber . Calvin415 is running a TAS on his nano tank with great results.
[/FONT][FONT="]How to build a TAS.[/FONT][FONT="]
I built my scrubber on the theory that you need 1 square inch for every gallon of water in the system 300 gallons = 300 square inches or 10†x 30â€. I started out with some 1†PVC pipe and cut a slot down the center with my table saw. If you can keep from going all the way through, it is better as your end caps will be much more snug of a fit.
I then cut slots perpendicular to the long axis of the pipe. This is to allow water to flow out and down the screen.
On the other end, I built the supply line out of a PVC T and barb fitting;
For my set up, the slot down the axis is 28 ½†long and two gutter guards are siliconed together;
I cut the top of the screen perpendicular to the screen to create tabs that slip in the slot that was cut out of the
In hind sight, after trial and error, you should use something that is much more porous so the algae have a base to adhere to. I ended up going with plastic needle point material and attached that to the gutter guard. The key to this is to make it as rough as you can. As rough as a cactus.
I used a Lights of America PC flood light that is only 65 watts but puts out enough to grow algae; http://www.lightsofamerica.com/en/Products/9265.aspx
Since I first built this, back in 2009, I have gone to 4 50 watt flood lights. I really think PC lighting would be the most effective for this set up because of its 30†length vs the floods. 75 watt floods burn the algae that grows on the screen so I try and stick with the 50s
[/FONT][FONT="]Maintenance[/FONT][FONT="]
Clean the scrubber every 7-10 days. Remove the brown algae and let the green grow. You will know it is turf algae as it looks fluffy and stringy. I use a hose with pressure nozzle on it to blow the brown algae off. The Turf Algae is pretty tough and you don't loose much during cleaning.
Once the turf algae has taken root, you clean ½ of the scrubber every week so that it grows rapidly. The faster you get it to grow, the more effective it is. I alternate sides every cleaning
As far as spectrum on your lights you can use 5K to 6500K bulbs with good results. I run my lighting 12 hours a day, per side, but alternate sides so each side is getting 12 hours a day. You can illuminate it up to 18 hours a day.
When I first discovered this method of nutrient export, it was from a user named SantaMonica. I read through his trial and errors and adapted them to my use. He was pretty much the source of information, back then. Now, if you do a google search on turf algae scrubber, you get all kinds of videos and links to commercial sites, as well as users who have done DIY on them.
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