3D Printing thread

[scuzy]

So i have bought a prusa i3 Mk3 like 8/2018 and i totally didn't have time to put it together. Well guess this pandemic gave me some time to do it. Finally put mine together and printed a few test prints. love it a lot better than the monoprice ultimate i had running. Guess better to be late than never. now to print some parts for the aquarium.

 

[markstubb]

Came out perfectly. I have zero concerns about the strength. Will be a couple weeks before I put this all together, but more updates to come!

thanks again for all the input and help!

Nice! That sintering process leaves an interesting finish. Looks great though!! My favorite part about 3D printing is getting to make my own custom parts for whatever crazy idea I'm working on haha

 

[willieboy240]

Thought I would just share what I found on thingiverse. Looks promising.

 

[Zephrant]

Decided I wanted my tank returns higher in my tank, made a quick part to share:

Aquarium Return Lift by Zephrant

Just a simple lift to raise over the back of the tank returns higher in the water column. When the pump stops, the water will back-siphon through the returns to the sump, until they suck air. By raising them, less water goes back down to the sump, preventing an overflow.

www.thingiverse.com

 

[AllanBanks]

Thought I would just share what I found on thingiverse. Looks promising.

I printed one of these in black ABS, it floats even at 100% infill though

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Huh, I was under the impression abs was more dense than PETG.

If in fact printed at 100% infill, I would suspect air bubbles as you submerged the piece.

 

[GK3]

I printed one of these in black ABS, it floats even at 100% infill though

Why not perform a shell function on the part and make the walls 4x the width of what your printer prints. Then set the parameter width to 4x this would print the walls as solid as possible. When it’s done, either leave a whole at the top or cut a whole, and pour in an export. This would solidify it, made it very sturdy, and definitely not float.

mother options would be to encase a weight at the bottom.

 

[AllanBanks]

Huh, I was under the impression abs was more dense than PETG.

If in fact printed at 100% infill, I would suspect air bubbles as you submerged the piece.

That's what I thought too until my failed attempt led me to find this: https://bitfab.io/blog/3d-printing-materials-densities/

 

[Palluk33]

 

[Palluk33]

Design and create case for magnet cover with PETG filament

 

[Octane13]

Got bored and started messing with some RFG's for a PP4 power head... still needs tweeking as it was only marginally successful.

 

[samnaz]

Got bored and started messing with some RFG's for a PP4 power head... still needs tweeking as it was only marginally successful.

Sweet!

 

[Luisreefmexico]

Inspired by PaulB's Mandarin Feeder design, I just made a 3D print version of it. It started almost 2 weeks ago from the drawing board, literally:

Sep 18th: I like to have the tube removable and leave the feeder on the sand bed and let the fish keep picking on it.

A small connector that always connected to the long plastic tube for pouring the shrimps in. It can then twist onto the base feeder that is sitting on the sand bed. The feeder could have an optional even bigger sand bed base that go under the sand so the feeder won't get blown around by the water current. There will be a cap for the feeder. Either just direct 3D print with tiny holes, or an open cap to allow using a normal mesh.

Sep 25th: After many days and many re-design for real world issues, here is the latest design:

The feeder is anchored down by the base to avoid floating away or getting blown around by the reef tank water current. Just a push and a twist on the feeding tube, and the feeder can be removed from the under-sand-anchor:

After pouring in the BBS, you can unscrew the feeding tube from the feeder. The rigid air tube is compression fitted to the screw-like connector. You can put in a blind-plug to close the hole without getting your hand wet. The screw-like connector is loosely fitted until the last turn.

Here is the under-sand-base and the feeder:

Everything is modular design. If you have a thinner/thicker air-tube, just need to re-print the screw-like compression connector. If you have a different size funnel, just re-print the funnel-airtube connector.

The screens are changeable as well.

The next revision is work-in-progress to have interchangable under-sand mounting legs, so that it could be buried in various places and situations.

Hello
Could you help me with your design ?

 

[Palluk33]

 

[3D Reefin']

Lots of cool post on here. Here is a overflow I just finished.

 

[Octane13]

What magnets are you using?

 

[Palluk33]

What magnets are you using?

Super Strong Neodymium Disc Magnets with Epoxy Coating, Powerful Permanent Rare Earth Magnets 1.26 inch x 1/8 inch, Pack of 10

 

[maginter]

Does anyone have a file for a a cover for a Corner Overflow on a Blue Sea tank? I need to keep Anemone and fish out of my overflow

 

[anth]

Sorry if this has already been asked but, what 3d printers are you guys using and what one would u suggest for me having never tried it?

 

[3D Reefin']

Sorry if this has already been asked but, what 3d printers are you guys using and what one would u suggest for me having never tried it?

I have own several printers from different manufactures ranging from low end to high end. That being said, if I was staring out, I would get a Creality Cr10-mini (is not really mini). They are affordable, several parts and mods are available for them and they are super simple and straight forward to use, and quite reliable.